I broke a factory aluminum rim on my 2000 F350 FWD Dually. I didn't hit anything in it. I just noticed that it was broken after hearing some odd noises while turning. After doing some research on this it appears that other people have had the same issues with the factory aluminum wheels on their PSD's. Can anyone tell me if the is an after market wheel that will directly fit onto my stock F350 Dually? I just bought 6 new 235-85-R16's tires a couple of months ago and would like to not have to buy another set of tires if possible. Thanks in advance for any direction that you may be able to give me.

 

Have you checked at a salvage yard yet?

 

Get a used one from a salvage yard or ebay. If you want a new one, try googling hubcap heaven. They have all the oem wheels and wheel covers.

 

Thank you for posting that picture. That is sure to help people know what to check for, and contributes to the safety of the roads we all share in common.

I've always had a very low opinion of that deep Vee design of the hand hole, that dips all the way down into the hub plate disc of the wheel. Looks cool, and looked very different at the time it was introduced, but looked suspiciously like a great place for a crack to initiate.

Contrast that wheel design with the Alcoa Classic, where all the hand holes are fully round, and are smaller, and are limited to a more confined area within the dish of the wheel, staying way from the bead seat and the hub mounting plate.








That's the kind of substance one wants in the dish of dually wheel.

Unfortunately, the wheel above doesn't fit your application, as the classic wheel shown is an 8 on 6.5" bolt pattern for a Dodge, and your Ford has an 8x170mm bolt pattern. And while we're on the 99-04 Ford dually 16" x 6" wheel specs, you are looking for a 5.35" offset, in a hub piloted mount with a "K" bead seat and a 5 degree bead taper.

Alcoa does, or at least did, make an aluminum wheel that fits your 2000 F-350. It is very similar in style to the stock wheel that has that the deep Vee shaped triangles for hand holes that cracked on you, but instead of cutting those triangles into the edge of the hub mounting center plate, Alcoa designers rounded the holes into ovals, and kept the edges away from the hub plate.

Smoothly radiused edges are generally less likely to concentrate stresses than sharp corners like the V. Have a look at how Alcoa rendered their "Hot Shot" styled wheel, that is similar in appearance, yet without the glaring fault of the Ford design:





I say Alcoa "did" instead of "does" for two reasons. One, Alcoa doesn't make wheels anymore. This year, Alcoa split up their business. Alcoa concentrates on mining aluminum, and the new company, called Arconic, focuses on end use products in the transportation industry, including wheels. So keep that in mind when searching.

The second reason why I say "did", instead of "does", is because the wheels that you need are listed in my 2001 Alcoa Application catalog as Part numbers 161281 is an "outside" polished rim, and 161282 is an "inside" polished rim. However, the 2010 Alcoa applications catalog does not offer ANY wheel for the 99-04 Ford F-350 dually. The 161281 and 161282 part numbers are not listed anymore, and this is as of seven years ago. A control F search failed to find these part numbers also, which I resorted to in case my eyes were deceiving me.

Keep in mind, Alcoa, or rather, Arconic, still shows an application for F-350s made PRIOR to 1998 (OBS), as well as F-350's made AFTER 2005 (with the change in bolt circle diameter, where earlier wheels cannot be mounted to the new suspension design with the change in offset)... but nothing for F-350 duallys in the 1999-2004 model years.

So, with no truly forged aftermarket wheel option from Alcoa/Arconic, I turned to Accuride, the OEM wheel supplier to Ford for steel wheels. Accuride also makes aluminum wheels, but does not make any that fit this application either.

I recommend that you go with OEM steel wheels (made by Accuride, Part # 29583), and then get stainless steel wheel skins (available from Ford with Ford center plate logos) to dress them up a little. You will never have another cracked wheel again. I run steels and skins in my F-550.

 

Y2kw57, any chance you work for ALCOA/ARCONIC? I've worked for ALCOA since 08, and now ARCONIC, Tennessee operations.

Hubcap heaven will have the steel wheels.

 

http://www.hubcaphaven.com/p/4944/st...c3z1015ba.html

 

Y'all are a wealth of knowledge. I love the style of those first alcoa wheels that Y2KW57 posted pictures of. I wish I could find some after market rims of a similar style to fit my truck. I haven't looked at the salvage yards yet. That may be a cheaper option. I looked up a new factory rim in the original style and they were asking $500 for one rim. Crazy!

 

Another member here sparky83 his cracked a wheel on his dually looks to be the same wheel and I think another member here was able to get him a wheel at a decent price. Here's a link to the thread send him a pm he should be able to offer you so advice in just getting one and bolt pattern for duallies didn't change till 05 https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...oday-1057.html

 

Even with the "good deal", it was over $500 new.

 

Bolt pattern for duallies did change prior to 2005, for the 1999 model year. When replacing individual broken rims with used factory replacements, this fact is immaterial. But when considering sturdier design options in the aftermarket, then it is important to know that Ford F-350 duallies have three different bolt patterns during the last 20 years:

• 1997 and prior - 8 x 6.5"
• 1999 thru 2004 - 8 x 170mm
• 2005 thru 2016 - 8 x 200mm

 

Not such a good deal after all I guess didn't see how much he ended up paying for that wheel.
Y2k I was referring to the bolt pattern being the same between the op's 2000 and sparky's truck for the oe wheel. Maybe that wasn't as clear as I thought but I'm well aware of when the bolt patterns changed.

 

That's ok Mike. I've noticed I've had a lot of trouble communicating as I get older. Must be all the wax and long bushy grey hairs growing out of my ears. Distorts my hearing. I'm still on the ditch the entire set of OE aluminum wheels trajectory. If it happened once to the OP, and many times to others according to the OP's research, then what is to stop it from happening again?

 

That's my thinking as well Y2KW57. I'm leaning towards ION 167. Anyone tried those? It looks like I may have to order the spacer rings because the bore diameter appears to be a little larger. Can anyone tell me if I will need wheel spacers as well?

 

no no no wheel spacers. no spacer rings. no no no. emphatic no. ALL CAPS NO!


If a wheel requires spacer rings, find another wheel.

If a wheel is cast aluminum instead of forged aluminum, find another wheel.

If a wheel isn't weight rated for AT LEAST 2,700 lbs, plus or minus 50 lbs, find another wheel.

If a wheel isn't pressure rated for AT LEAST 80 psi minimum (actual inflation pressures can creep higher than 80 when tire is heated) then find another wheel.

I maintain that the optimal balance between cheapest, safest, and most reliable options are Accuride steels. Stock steels from XL models would work very nicely, and likely at very low cost. They can be dressed with trim rings and hub caps, or full cover stainless skins.

The low cost factor comes in as many guys just look at the design pattern of the wheels, or their color, or how big of a tire they can fit on the wheel... and not their physical properties. This makes Craigslist a treasure trove for factory take offs, especially steelies, which no self respecting Millennial with any sense of style would be caught dead with... unless plasti-dipped matte black. This is how I've been able to get double sets of stock wheels for all of my trucks. I can keep winter tires on one set, and summer tires on another set. I can have multiple spares, so that I can change tires on both sides of an axle, to maintain equal diameters, even though only one tire needed changing.

Adapters are a very bad idea.... bad for wheel retention, bad for wheel bearings, bad for hub centric mounts with flat swiveling two piece lugnuts, bad for liability, bad because there is not enough hub land to support piloting, as the hub tapers to the spec diameter in order to fit the wheels on. The hub land only supports 1 aluminum wheel, the companion in the pair has to be steel anyway.

And that is another advantage to steel... any tire, any position, in any situation... or in rotation if you rotate. I don't rotate the back axle at all. I have ridden home on 5 tires though, when I wasn't carrying a spare.

The key advantage to aluminum is the significant reduction in unsprung weight. But if I couldn't get a forged Alcoa / Arconic or Accuride aluminum wheel for the application, I'd forgo that advantage. Not taking the chance on Chinese cast wheels.

 

I gave $100 on Craigslist for some nice stainless wheel covers and lug nuts for my 94 f350 drw.