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Sounds like it does take some kind of module. Note the last sentence. Summit Racing® Billet Distributors SUM-850083
Distributor, Magnetic Pickup, Mechanical Advance, Black Cap, Ford, Big Block FE.
Our Summit Racing® billet distributors provide reliable spark throughout the rpm range, so they'll deliver the performance you need, no matter what you drive--race car, street machine, or hauler. The affordable distributors have high-dollar features that outperform the competition, like a lightweight aluminum housing that's precision CNC-machined for strength and stability, polished steel shafts with sealed ball bearings for stable operation through 10,000 rpm, and a maintenance-free, high-output magnetic trigger for accurate and reliable performance. The distributors have a black alkyd cap and an adjustable mechanical advance, so you can precisely tune the curve to your engine setup. Some models also feature vacuum advance. An ignition box is required for use with Summit® billet distributors.
I have it just hooked on the coil with no ignition box of any sort and it works excellent!! I have not had a single issue with it since the install. When I purchased it I was rebuilding my original one and after I priced it out, it cost more $$ to fix the old turd to make it kinda good compared to getting the new beautie that I have now and to use a modern style wire like the Ford Racing which are very cheap for a 9mm wire.. I didn't think to go on Summit and look at the description. Good thinking JEFFFAFA :thumbup
If that's a oil filled Blaster II coil an when you burn it out then you'll find out that MSD warns against mounting in it's side like that.
I think they did not filled it with very much oil cause it will over heat.
This info is even on there web page when ordering it not you have to look for it.
I had about 200miles on mine before it went out and had to have my truck towed for the first time.
Orich
I have it just hooked on the coil with no ignition box of any sort and it works excellent!! I have not had a single issue with it since the install. When I purchased it I was rebuilding my original one and after I priced it out, it cost more $$ to fix the old turd to make it kinda good compared to getting the new beautie that I have now and to use a modern style wire like the Ford Racing which are very cheap for a 9mm wire.. I didn't think to go on Summit and look at the description. Good thinking JEFFFAFA :thumbup
In that case the info I copied from there must be universal for their Dizzys and not specific to yours and the FE one I posted. What you say makes sense if you look at the pic that shows the wiring,springs etc that come with this particular FE dizzy. Is there something similar to a Pertronix unit inside your Dizzy?
If that's a oil filled Blaster II coil an when you burn it out then you'll find out that MSD warns against mounting in it's side like that.
I think they did not filled it with very much oil cause it will over heat.
This info is even on there web page when ordering it not you have to look for it.
I had about 200miles on mine before it went out and had to have my truck towed for the first time.
Orich
Your not supposed to mount it on it's side?!?!?! Where did you mount it now? I noticed on the front of the head there is a open threaded hole. Can that hole be used as a mounting point? Thanks for the info!!!
In that case the info I copied from there must be universal for their Dizzys and not specific to yours and the FE one I posted. What you say makes sense if you look at the pic that shows the wiring,springs etc that come with this particular FE dizzy. Is there something similar to a Pertronix unit inside your Dizzy?
I don't remember what the inside looked like, but when I get home tonight if it's not raining I will open it up and check it out and take some pictures for everyone. The Summit tech told me that if I am running the stock cam and card the advance springs that come in it are more then enough, but the kit comes with a bunch of springs and a lock out if you have EFI that controls it. My 390FE love it, plus the bling of it
Your not supposed to mount it on it's side?!?!?! Where did you mount it now? I noticed on the front of the head there is a open threaded hole. Can that hole be used as a mounting point? Thanks for the info!!!
I found out that the oem ford dura II coil is the same as the MSD BlasterII
so order two of them one for a back up
The part number for a wiring pigtail to snap on the Duraspark can shaped coil is 3U2Z14S411XLA. It comes with the plastic/nylon horseshoe shaped connector, terminals, and 6" of wire or so. Still available from Ford.
And Rich, I see all you need is just that plastic/nylon horseshoe. It was part number D5AZ14489H. Discontinued but: Klimesh Motor Sales
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Aw Good eyes Jeff,
But, I did order one an have it for my back up coil from the loco parts O'rys store
I just remove the terminals from the harness that, I got from summit it as they still clip on to the DS II coil. For me it's just easier to check voltage etc. when needed.
Finished yesterday and it fired right up! Even drove it a little. Has some bog under load, but I still need to rebuild the carb and play with the timing (and hook up the advance). Where were you guys back when I had my 76?! Didn't even know this conversion was possible. Here's to the internet! You guys are great!
I still plan on posting all the current part numbers. It took some digging, but every one of the parts I used is readily available at Oreilly, Autozone, NAPA, etc.
More to come after Christmas! Happy Holidays everyone.
Congrats! Looks good. I like how you mounted that module to a heat sink. There should be a vacuum nipple on the right side of that Holley. Hook up your vac advance to that. Between that and setting the timing I bet your bog will go bye-bye.
Congrats! Looks good. I like how you mounted that module to a heat sink. There should be a vacuum nipple on the right side of that Holley. Hook up your vac advance to that. Between that and setting the timing I bet your bog will go bye-bye.
let's hope so! Don't need perfect, just good enough to cruise around from time to time. Here's a better pic with the Ford 9mm's.
Yep. And right there on the right side of the carb, in front of the choke, is the plugged off vacuum nipple to hook up the Dizzy's vac advance. I don't see the power wire going to the choke cap. Is there both wires hooked to it that I can't see?
So much good info here (I’m on overload) I’m attempting to convert my duraspark system over to HEI using a GM E core coil w a factory distributor. The I’ve run into some issues with the engine cranking as soon as the key is turned and not really sure why. Thought something might be back feeding.... I’ve seen three versions of this set up but not sure which is right. All are a variation of what’s above but one includes a diode in-line “B” going to the coil + and other with a relay in-line “B” to the coil +.
I've built a couple of those using the Ford 300-6 efi coil Worked great for years. To me there is something about using all stock parts in case you ever break down.
Also, I have ran the fat plug wires, couldn't tell a bit of difference except they don't fit in any of the stock looms so buy new looms if you go that route, not a bunch of zip ties.
I've built a couple of those using the Ford 300-6 efi coil Worked great for years. To me there is something about using all stock parts in case you ever break down.
Also, I have ran the fat plug wires, couldn't tell a bit of difference except they don't fit in any of the stock looms so buy new looms if you go that route, not a bunch of zip ties.
The bigger outer diameter plug wires have a bigger core in them that the spark travels through. And then thicker outer. All this is intended to pass higher voltage and keep the spark from leaking out of the sides of the wires.
