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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1981 Ignition Trouble

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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 10:01 PM
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1981 Ignition Trouble

Okay I replaced my ignition switch and my starter solenoid. I turn my key and all the accessories come on, but soon as I turn the key all the accessories turn off like its going to turn over but nothing happens someone please help! Not sure what to chase down next.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 10:35 PM
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All the accessories (except headlights) are supposed to turn off with the key in START, that's normal.

Neutral Safety Switch (if auto transmission) comes to mind next.

Did you wire the new solenoid correctly? The red/light-blue-stripe wire to the correct terminal?
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 10:38 PM
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Its a manual, and im not exactly sure how the wiring is supposed to wire it . so if you could explain it thatd be sweet
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 04:05 AM
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First got to ask why you replaced the parts you did?
Did this start after the parts were installed?
Could you post up a picture of the solenoid?


Ok on the Solenoid you should have a large cable from batt to 1 lug on the SOL. You should also have a few smaller wires with large eyelets connected to the same lug.
The other wires are fuse links and power to the rest of the truck.


The other large lug should have a cable going to the starter.


You then have 1 or 2 small lugs on the SOL. 1 marked "S" other "I".
The S is the startlug and the wire that gets power when you turn the key to start goes on that lug.
If you have a 2nd wire it would go on the I lug.


As Chris said it could be NSS or adjustment of the IGN switch you installed.


If this was before the parts install you should also check ALL batt connections.
Pull both batt connections and clean them. They make a tool to clean batt posts & cable ends.


Before you hook the batt back up follow the ground cable and where it connects pull and clean both the cable & where it bolts to. On the 4.9 the cable has 2 points of contact, cross member & starter bolt at bell housing.


Also there is a sticky IICR on how to check voltage drop on cables. This is good as looking at batt cables you cannot tell if they are good or bad.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 04:51 AM
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I replaced those parts just because i tbought they were bad . and it wasnt the ignition switch it was ignotion cylinder (to start the truck)
I can post a pic in a little bit still dark right now
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 04:58 AM
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It's a manual.
There is a clutch safety interlock switch and a jumper where the NSS harness would plug in.

Have a look up above the pedals.
​​​​​​​The switch may be out of adjustment or the jumper may be missing.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 07:10 AM
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What you could try as a test is to MAKE SURE THE TRUCK IS IN NEUTRAL and set the parking brake or chock the wheels. Go out and take a small piece of wire and touch #3 terminal and #5 terminal. Should crank over. If you turn the ignition on and then jump it again, it may actually try to start.

If the above works I agree with the other guys, it's probably your neutral safety on the clutch pedal. Or it could be the famous broken piece inside the steering column.

 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 08:57 AM
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My feelings: You changed something and now it doesn't work right, so change it back to how it was.

If the only thing you touched is the starter solenoid (ignition lock cylinder is generally irrelevant here) then the problem is most likely with the starter solenoid... incorrect installation, defective, whatever.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 10:21 AM
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Okay here is how the solenoid sit right now ...

I found a red wire that was hooked to the pos terminal on battery. It runs thru the firewire and grounds itself in the dash area. but when i was routing the wire i saw it was disconnected, so i connected it and the whole wire started smoking.
So where is this wire supposed to go . i have a feeling this may be one of my problems ...
This is where i spliced it for testing purposes
And grounds right here
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 10:36 AM
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That wire in your hand in the 2nd picture is user-added, you will need to determine its purpose as nobody here can see this stuff.

BUT... it you're holding it to the battery positive terminal... and if the other end is a ground, it's no surprise that it burns up as doing that is a direct short circuit.

~~

The small wire to the solenoid should be red/light-blue-stripe not red/white-stripe... red/white-stripe is either water temperature sender or oil pressure sender, I forget which...
Assuming this part of the wiring is un-butchered by a PO and those colors are as they came out of the factory.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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Okay so im getting by looking online is "A" terminal is for the pos terminal on battery. and "B" is for starter. "S" is for ignition switch and "I" could be used for Coil. how am i doing so far ?
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Tartersauce53
Okay so im getting by looking online is "A" terminal is for the pos terminal on battery. and "B" is for starter. "S" is for ignition switch and "I" could be used for Coil. how am i doing so far ?
Not knowing what you are looking at to get "A" & "B" from
but from your first picture if "A" is the large stud to the left of the "S" stud and "B" to the right of the "I" stud you are right.


"S" only gets power when the key is turned to start.
"I" only gets power when the SOL in energized. In the old days it would send a full 12 volts to the coil for a hotter spark when starting. Once running the coil got lower volts thru the resister wire from the IGN switch.


As someone said make sure the park brake is set and truck out of gear. Take a short piece of wire from "A" to "S" and the motor should turn over if the rest of the system is good.


It sounds like you may be missing the "S" wire time to do some hunting.


Now for the "good system", That clamp you have on the batt in one of the pictures is an issue waiting to happen if it has not already. Replace the cable. Me if I don't know how long the cables have been on the truck I replace them all.
Dave ----
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 12:44 PM
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If you can avoid it, never use any red wire/cable for any ground....always black.
And i agree about the battery cable clamps that you have are good for temporary/emergency repairs but will cause issues long term. The open cable insulation at the clamp will cause premature corrosion which will travel through the cable like the blood in your veins.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2016 | 09:34 PM
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New question..
If i had a toggle push button start would that replace the "crank" of the key ? I turn the key and all accessories come on so im thinking if there all connected in one place should fire right ?
 
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 05:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Tartersauce53
New question..
If i had a toggle push button start would that replace the "crank" of the key ? I turn the key and all accessories come on so im thinking if there all connected in one place should fire right ?
it would but why would you want to do that?

It sounded like you did not have the right wire on the S of the solinoid.
Why not find the right wire or figure why you are not getting power to the S on the solinoid .
Dave - - - -
 
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