Door locks
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
Door locks
So trying to decide on which way to go...
Replace or repair
I checked on Rockauto.com and they have what looks to be generics for about $25/door or $35 for Dorman's.
I have about $60 credit with them after returning some unneeded parts.
Or...repair?
I have read through a few threads on the foil trick for the failing thermal resistor... Seems easy enough. Not sure which way would benefit more. I could always replace then repair the old ones and keep for backups..etc.
Thoughts?
Replace or repair
I checked on Rockauto.com and they have what looks to be generics for about $25/door or $35 for Dorman's.
I have about $60 credit with them after returning some unneeded parts.
Or...repair?
I have read through a few threads on the foil trick for the failing thermal resistor... Seems easy enough. Not sure which way would benefit more. I could always replace then repair the old ones and keep for backups..etc.
Thoughts?
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
Personally, I only buy OEM. Over the years I've bought three non-OEM items: radiator overflow bottle with cap (ended up buying OEM 2 months later), driver's door window switch pod (window controls work but auto-down seldom takes the window past 1/2 way), and plastic body pins (don't fit right).
If it was me I would try the repair. If that didn't work I'd buy Ford replacements. I get some of my Ford parts from Rockauto.
Just my .02
If it was me I would try the repair. If that didn't work I'd buy Ford replacements. I get some of my Ford parts from Rockauto.
Just my .02
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
Thank guys...that's what I needed. Experienced advice.
I did read that it is a pain removing the actuator WITHOUT removing the door handle... Some say not so....
Thoughts?
Also, I have seen everyone saying Tin foil... actual tin foil or would the foil wrap from my wife's cigarette packs work? Those wraps are thinner so I am thinking easier to slide the resistor back in... or does it not matter?
I did read that it is a pain removing the actuator WITHOUT removing the door handle... Some say not so....
Thoughts?
Also, I have seen everyone saying Tin foil... actual tin foil or would the foil wrap from my wife's cigarette packs work? Those wraps are thinner so I am thinking easier to slide the resistor back in... or does it not matter?
Hotshot
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 10,750
Likes: 1,065
From: Douglassville, PA
I used aluminum foil off of the roll in the kitchen. Outer door handle came off and I found that it's easier if you pull those plastic things that hold the cables to the door off. I don't know what they're called but they're the nubs that you see when you pull the door panel off. That will let you pull the whole thing farther out the door handle hole to work on it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
OK Gonna add a little more to this....
The passenger side front door. The plastic pull thing-a-ma-bob to manually lock or unlock the door. What is it called? Couldn't find it on the RockAuto site. Factory part?
Thanks!
The passenger side front door. The plastic pull thing-a-ma-bob to manually lock or unlock the door. What is it called? Couldn't find it on the RockAuto site. Factory part?
Thanks!
Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,092
Likes: 145
From: San Diego, CA
I think this is it:
**** (door latch control rod)
Ford PN F81Z-2521850-AAA (base number is 21850 if you have a dealership parts counter look it up)
**** (door latch control rod)
Ford PN F81Z-2521850-AAA (base number is 21850 if you have a dealership parts counter look it up)
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Lead Driver
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,249
Likes: 42
just buy generic universal actuators and install them in an easy to get to location.
did this on old green 10+ years ago. paid $20 for the set of 4.
they are still going strong, but if one ever fails, it will be quick and easy to replace. not to mention, CHEAP.
did this on old green 10+ years ago. paid $20 for the set of 4.
they are still going strong, but if one ever fails, it will be quick and easy to replace. not to mention, CHEAP.
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Posting Guru
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 1,199
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
I have to agree with EMPIRETC. I have replaced the rear doors on my Ex with Rock Auto generics and will replace the fronts over Christmas break. I like the fact that FoMoCo units have metal arms on the actuators, but not enough to justify the expense.
More Turbo
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 523
Likes: 9
From: Carrollton, Ga
Tip: always extend the heat shrink a minimum of a inch past the joint for support. The copper wire gets weak on the edge of the solder joint and tends to break without some support.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 3,953
Likes: 120
From: Mcdonough, GA
As stated before the lock repair is not too difficult. Did mine about 5 years ago. About 6 months in one quit working. Turns out I wadded up the foil when I put the Thermister back in. Used a pair of snips and cut a piece of penny the same size as the thermister. No issues since.
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
OK So with everything I have seen here...Gonna go with the new ones, and fix the old ones for backups...or maybe for someone else who needs em. ')
Brian42...thanks for the info. new lock ***** ordered!
Brian42...thanks for the info. new lock ***** ordered!
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 7,404
Likes: 52
From: Wheatland, Mo
So to close this thread out....
All actuators are replaced now. Just as the other threads stated, the first door takes a couple of hours, then the rest go real quick.
I did remove the outer door handle on the first one but that was it. The others I did with the door handle in place and didn't even disconnect any of the rod connectors. Once you get the first one slid back in, you get a feel for sliding them back in.
I also managed to find the "slot" behind the door latch and used a flat blade screw driver to slide the actuators off of their brackets.
I did however still undo the one 10mm bolt to the window track. Made it easier to maneuver with it loose.
Thanks everyone for the advice!
All actuators are replaced now. Just as the other threads stated, the first door takes a couple of hours, then the rest go real quick.
I did remove the outer door handle on the first one but that was it. The others I did with the door handle in place and didn't even disconnect any of the rod connectors. Once you get the first one slid back in, you get a feel for sliding them back in.
I also managed to find the "slot" behind the door latch and used a flat blade screw driver to slide the actuators off of their brackets.
I did however still undo the one 10mm bolt to the window track. Made it easier to maneuver with it loose.
Thanks everyone for the advice!