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I was gonna say, that condenser looks a whole lot like the el-cheapo Chinee condensers that everybody sells these days, even the rebuilders. If you're going to run points do yourself a favor and buy good old school NOS Autolite points AND condenser made back when points were still being made. They don't cost that much more but they will last. Motorcraft even still offers them too, though I don't know how good they are anymore.
Take the time to figure out what the advance curve is on the rebuilt distributor and recurve for your application, it is very likely not setup correct.
This makes a huge difference on how well the engine will run, and fuel economy. There is damn near magic in those .20c springs and weights and vacuum advance. Lots of folks will bolt expensive intake and carbs on and the rest of it but leave all kinds of performance on the table.
If you're going to run points do yourself a favor and buy good old school NOS Autolite points AND condenser made back when points were still being made. They don't cost that much more but they will last. Motorcraft even still offers them too, though I don't know how good they are anymore.
That is good advice and I am definitely going to look around for a few sets. I am running points in my 65 too so I will take care of that one also. I believe that has chinese junk in it too.
Originally Posted by Tedster9
Take the time to figure out what the advance curve is on the rebuilt distributor, it may not be setup for that engine. This makes a huge difference on how well the enginenwill run, and fuel economy.
I haven't been on the site in a couple years, but I believe that is notated by a number and the letter "L" or something like that? I need to go back and do a forum search on the subject.
Originally Posted by orich
So now what was that black mark??
And hope you move the points wire away from the housing.
It looked like paint pen. It was in a couple other spots no where near wires and it scratched off and looked like paint when it flaked off. I checked the underside of the wire and it didn't appear to have rubbed off or melted in that spot.
I did make sure the wires were away from the housing when I put everything back together. Since I had the bolt loose on the points for the condenser wire I was able to adjust the angle of the connecters so the wire was more elevated, but not in the way of the rotor.
Thank you for the kind words orich. I will definitely let him know you thanked him for his service and were instrumental in getting his dear old dad squared away. We are heading out to San Diego tomorrow to meet the DIs at dinner on Wednesday. Family day is on Thursday and graduation is on Friday. We are going and do a little touristing for a few days afterwards and spend some time with him before coming home.
I was going to say that the condenser in the picture, has a dent in it, and since there's little spare room inside, you should replace it. But I'm glad you found the problem. I switched over to the electronic module (like Pertronix) no more adjustments or problems. Jeffaffa, add another bad one to the condenser tally.
This was one of the first things I did when I was ruling out the carb, but thank you for the suggestion.
QFT = Quick Fuel Technologies - Holley 4150 clone
I found the problem. When I was moving the condenser wire away from the housing, the wire fell out of the condenser even though it shows in the picture that it is still connected to the condenser. I replaced the condenser and the truck fired right up. Now I just need to get everything reset, run it through emissions, renew the tags and it will be ready for my son when he gets back.
Thank you everyone who helped me out on this one, especially you orich. Reps all around as the system lets me. I do feel stupid for not just changing this at the beginning along with the points.
There we have it. That makes bad condenser #1,785,644.
V8 single point dizzy points and condenser. Still available from Ford.
points.....B8Q12171A (DP12).
condenser.......C9AZ12300A (DC13A).
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