Notices
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

1954 F100 Won't Start Anymore

 
  #1  
Old 05-27-2018, 10:38 AM
Cris Molina's Avatar
Cris Molina
Cris Molina is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Cris Molina is starting off with a positive reputation.
1954 F100 Won't Start Anymore

New to the forum. Quick question, possible lengthy answer.

I have a 1954 F100. Recently tried to start after a year, engine turns but I feel that itís not getting fire or enough power to completely start.

Background on truck: It was my great grandfatherís farm truck until he passed away in Ď69. Literally left outside to the elements until I placed it in a garage in 2001. I've replaced the battery, ignition switch, ignition coil, and wiring up to the starter. Iíve rebuilt the distributor and carburetor since 2001. Remaining parts all original, wired for 6V, which was originally 6V.

Iíve read different forum posts that suggest it may be the starter brushings that need to be checked/replaced, to the regulator, all the way to the ignition wiring.

Iíve check the battery, wiring from battery to starter relay (which I also checked) to the starter. Iíve check the starter coil with a VOM (working fine). Iíve checked the lights when starting, they donít dim. Iíve even pulled it with another truck to start it but nothing works.

My assumption is that itís either the starter or wiring to the distributor. Iíve removed the starter and examined the brushings, they have a clean connection with no frayed wiring.

Finally, my question is how do I test the distributor to make sure itís getting fire?

Greatly appreciate the help!
 
  #2  
Old 05-27-2018, 11:30 AM
FuzzFace2's Avatar
FuzzFace2
FuzzFace2 is online now
Post Fiend
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Angier, NC
Posts: 9,482
FuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to allFuzzFace2 is a name known to all
Welcome to FTE.
I don't know much on this older stuff but a car/truck is a car/truck and all work the same.
You need air, fuel and spark.
Now you said it cranks over so guessing the starter is good and if it is cranking it should be getting air. Might want to do a compression test to make sure you have compression in all holes.

For fuel have you tried spraying a little starting fluid in the carb before trying to start? If so what happened, did it try to run?
Do not try and pull any fuel from the tank till you have checked it for rust & bad fuel. If not too bad you might try and clean the inside other wise get a new or better one.
Fuel pump I would rebuild it if it can be or replace it and any of the rubber fuel lines.

Now for spark. With the key turned on to run, using a test light see if you have power (6 volts) at the coil on the + side. If no power to the coil + side you need to find out why and fix it.
For testing only and can run a "hot wire" from the battery + to the coil + side.
The coil - side goes to the points. Are the points new and gapped right? Sometimes from setting the points get a film on them so may be run points file or fine sand paper thru them.
Now with the test light hooked to 6 volts and the other side to the coil - side when the points are closed the light should light, if not you need to fix this. Maybe the points plate ground wire is not hooked up or missing?
If the points are open the light will not light. It is the opening & closing of the points that lets the coil build up spark and let it fire when needed.
So with the test light to ground and on the coil + side or to 6 volts and the coil - side when cranking the motor over the test light should flash and if all is good should have spark.

Check for spark, pull the coil wire from the dist. and hold it 1/8" from ground and crank the motor you should see a nice blue spark and hear a snap. You can also use a spark plug in the wire and to ground to check for spark or use a spark tester. If no spark you need to recheck the coil test or that new coil is bad, try the old one if you still have it.
If you have spark on the coil wire put it back in the dist. and pull a plug wire off a plug and using a plug in the end and to ground crank and test for spark. This will only spark when the rotor is pointing to the spot on the dist. cap. If no spark at a plug wire to ground check the rotor & dist cap for spark tracking where spark is going to ground before it get to the point on the cap to fire the plug.
Dave ----
 
  #3  
Old 05-27-2018, 11:38 AM
hooler1's Avatar
hooler1
hooler1 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mason City
Posts: 522
hooler1 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Hi Cris,

If I am reading this all correctly it sounds like the engine is cranking, just not firing. Did you check for spark? If none, I would check to see with your VOM or test light if you have voltage to the coil when the key is switched to ON. With a 6 volt ignition, and a good charged battery it might be (just guessing) around 4 volts or more. If you have voltage to the coil then check your points and condenser. Lots of folks have had problems with new bad condensers causing current leakage across the points, thus partially shorting them out and weakening the spark. The coil could also be bad, but I would check for those things first.
If you do have spark, but not firing, the distributor could be badly out of time, or a fuel delivery issue. Check the fuel system to make sure your carb is getting fuel. Just some ideas anyway. Hope they help!
 
  #4  
Old 05-27-2018, 11:44 AM
hooler1's Avatar
hooler1
hooler1 is offline
Elder User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Mason City
Posts: 522
hooler1 is gaining momentum as a positive member of FTE.
Originally Posted by FuzzFace2 View Post
Welcome to FTE.
I don't know much on this older stuff but a car/truck is a car/truck and all work the same.
You need air, fuel and spark.
Now you said it cranks over so guessing the starter is good and if it is cranking it should be getting air. Might want to do a compression test to make sure you have compression in all holes.

For fuel have you tried spraying a little starting fluid in the carb before trying to start? If so what happened, did it try to run?
Do not try and pull any fuel from the tank till you have checked it for rust & bad fuel. If not too bad you might try and clean the inside other wise get a new or better one.
Fuel pump I would rebuild it if it can be or replace it and any of the rubber fuel lines.

Now for spark. With the key turned on to run, using a test light see if you have power (6 volts) at the coil on the + side. If no power to the coil + side you need to find out why and fix it.
For testing only and can run a "hot wire" from the battery + to the coil + side.
The coil - side goes to the points. Are the points new and gapped right? Sometimes from setting the points get a film on them so may be run points file or fine sand paper thru them.
Now with the test light hooked to 6 volts and the other side to the coil - side when the points are closed the light should light, if not you need to fix this. Maybe the points plate ground wire is not hooked up or missing?
If the points are open the light will not light. It is the opening & closing of the points that lets the coil build up spark and let it fire when needed.
So with the test light to ground and on the coil + side or to 6 volts and the coil - side when cranking the motor over the test light should flash and if all is good should have spark.

Check for spark, pull the coil wire from the dist. and hold it 1/8" from ground and crank the motor you should see a nice blue spark and hear a snap. You can also use a spark plug in the wire and to ground to check for spark or use a spark tester. If no spark you need to recheck the coil test or that new coil is bad, try the old one if you still have it.
If you have spark on the coil wire put it back in the dist. and pull a plug wire off a plug and using a plug in the end and to ground crank and test for spark. This will only spark when the rotor is pointing to the spot on the dist. cap. If no spark at a plug wire to ground check the rotor & dist cap for spark tracking where spark is going to ground before it get to the point on the cap to fire the plug.
Dave ----
Dave gave a much better post than mine! We were replying at the same time, so I did not know this was here from Dave.. My apologies !.

Thanks!
 
  #5  
Old 05-27-2018, 12:01 PM
abe's Avatar
abe
abe is offline
Post Fiend
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Central PA
Posts: 12,055
abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.abe has a spectacular reputation.
Chris, welcome to FTE the best Ford truck Forum on the world wide web!

Chris, above, has given a great step by step process of things to look for. I couldn't do better so I won't try!

But when you have time show us some pics of your truck, we like pictures. And tell us what part of the country you are from.
 
  #6  
Old 05-28-2018, 12:01 PM
Cris Molina's Avatar
Cris Molina
Cris Molina is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Cris Molina is starting off with a positive reputation.
Thank yíall for the information! Hereís a little more info and pics.

The gas tank is clean as a whistle. We currently use a secondary tank that sits in the truck bed until we purchase a new hose.

The carb is getting and distributing gas and I double checked the coil with a VOM (still good).

Before I begin testing does anyone know the polari



ty system of a Ď54? Does it run ground positive or ground negative. Iíve attached a pic of the coil wiring that was originally set up. No wiring has been changed but Iím afraid the battery may have been switched around during this restoration process.
 
  #7  
Old 05-28-2018, 12:26 PM
raytasch's Avatar
raytasch
raytasch is online now
Old guy with old toys
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: W. Central FL.
Posts: 6,618
raytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputation
The truck would have been positive ground originally.
 
  #8  
Old 05-28-2018, 01:26 PM
petemcl's Avatar
petemcl
petemcl is offline
Still Learnin'
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Northville, MI
Posts: 4,228
petemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud ofpetemcl has much to be proud of
Take the top off the carb and check inside.
 
  #9  
Old 05-28-2018, 04:22 PM
Cris Molina's Avatar
Cris Molina
Cris Molina is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Cris Molina is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ray and Pete- Thank you for the information. I'll start testing the wires and checking the carb next weekend. All a huge help!
 
  #10  
Old 05-28-2018, 05:14 PM
raytasch's Avatar
raytasch
raytasch is online now
Old guy with old toys
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: W. Central FL.
Posts: 6,618
raytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputationraytasch has a superb reputation
Although you may find similar debris in your carburetor that will not prevent it from trying to start. You did mention the carb was getting and spraying gas in post entry #6.
Did you clean and lubricate the starter bushings when you had it out? Have you cranked it with a spark plug wire held 1/8" from the engine block and found a nice hot spark?
Have you opened and closed the points with the ignition on and found spark there?
 
  #11  
Old 06-02-2018, 06:56 PM
Cris Molina's Avatar
Cris Molina
Cris Molina is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Cris Molina is starting off with a positive reputation.
So I attempted to get a spark from the coil wire (turned ignition switch and pressed starter), no spark.

I then attempted to take the wire from ignition switch and placed on battery (so battery to the coil now), went through the motions as still no spark.

I checked the ignition coil with an ohmeter again (primary and secondary coil). Both are showing the correct resistance.

I assume since Iím not getting a spark from the ignition coil that checking the distributor would be a mute point at this time.

Correct me if Iím thinking wrong and any additional advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #12  
Old 06-10-2018, 10:04 AM
Cris Molina's Avatar
Cris Molina
Cris Molina is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Cris Molina is starting off with a positive reputation.
Distributor Video

Is this rotating at the correct speed for a 6V battery?
 
Attached Files
  #13  
Old 06-10-2018, 01:05 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
ALBUQ F-1 is online now
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 24,036
ALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputation
Nope, that's real slow. Is your battery fully charged?
 
  #14  
Old 06-11-2018, 04:12 PM
Cris Molina's Avatar
Cris Molina
Cris Molina is offline
New User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 10
Cris Molina is starting off with a positive reputation.
Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1 View Post
Nope, that's real slow. Is your battery fully charged?
Itís fully charged. Even checked with a voltmeter.
 
  #15  
Old 06-11-2018, 04:57 PM
ALBUQ F-1's Avatar
ALBUQ F-1
ALBUQ F-1 is online now
Post Fiend
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: NM
Posts: 24,036
ALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputationALBUQ F-1 has a superb reputation
It may have voltage but not enough amperage. Hook up your voltmeter and watch it while you crank. If it drops way down, it's the battery. 9 times out of 10, it's the battery, but check that cable connections are clean, and the cables are heavy 6v cables.
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: 1954 F100 Won't Start Anymore


Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.