True. Lines comes into the fuse panel and then leaves out. The fuse panel is essentially a bypass/protection. Does anyone have a good schematic of the fuse panel showing line in/ lines out for the fuel pump relay?

 

The only 2 you actually need from the fuse panel is the PCM ground trigger and the output to the fuel pump.

PCM ground trigger LB/OG (light blue with orange stripe I believe)
Downstream fuel pump power DG/YE (dark green with yellow stripe) - this goes to the inertia switch.

Then wire up the relay:
Ignition power to 86.
PCM ground trigger to 85.
Battery to 30
Downstream fuel pump power to 87.

Use fuses to match the factory specs, I believe it's 20 amps for the pump so use a 20 amp fuse as close to your source of battery power as possible. On the ignition wire going to 86 put a low amp fuse like 2.5 or even lower if you can find it.

 

Use at least 14 gauge wiring.
I would use a 40A rated relay.
seijirou - any thoughts on using a spike suppression relay since the trigger is a PCM line, even though it's only a ground line? I think the OEM relays are spike suppression.

 

You mean one with a flyback diode on the coil? Sure that's a good idea being directly connected to the PCM. Either buy a relay with one or yeah wire in a 1n4001.

 

To make things easier and not have to replace the fuel pump relay to an exterior relay I found another solution.

I was searching on Ebay for another fuse box panel and I came across a guy that will replace the fuel pump relay on the mother board. He is will updated it with a new upgraded relay. This way you know you have everything on your own fuse box that will work.

He is a certified electronics specialist and rebuilds Lincoln Navigator, Ford Expeditions and Ford Excursions Fuse box mother boards that houses the relay. After a phone conversation with him he said that these three vehicles use the same mother boards and he keeps them in stock. Most of the time he does Navigators and Expeditions but he said he can do Excursions as well. He has three price ranges ranging from 69.95, 85.00, and 125.95. The lowest is just to replace the relay. The highest he will rebuild the whole mother board and diagnose any other problems. If you purchase he $125 and everything checks out but just the relay then he will refund you for the full rebuild.

I am going this route and trying his service out. Tired of endless searching for the right part number and part. Will sending it out the end of the week. When he gets it in house he said he will have it out the next day shipping it back to me.

Here is a link to his service on Ebay. fivestarrepair

2003-2006 EXPEDITION "COMPLETE" FUSE BOX REBUILD SERVICE "WARRANTY" | eBay

Phone #434-738-7994

I will let you know how it turns out.

 

So how did the REPAIR (above) work out? Same issue here now on a 2002 F250 SD; seems many DO have this replacement challenge. And costly parts that may or may not swap right. TY.

 

I have an 06 super duty diesel 6.0 with the same problem, i have the fusebox disassembled and theres only the two small relays in the upper right corner that are soldered in and neither looks burnt. which one is for the fuel pump?

 

The two I'm looking at are omron f8vf8a 1185a21his either one of these the correct relay?

 

I'm sorry I don't know the answer... hopefully one of the many great browsers will see the question and give an answer. Good Luck.

 

Fellow Ford Truck owners,

I am the owner of 2 Excursions, the first is a 2002 Limited V10 4WD I first purchased in 2005 with 66k miles. She currently has 121K. The only time she has been in the shop was to have the brakes done and regular oil changes. July of last year I decided to buy another one since being 6"7" tall find a vehicle with the leg room I needed was difficult and the Excursion did not disappoint me in that department. I managed to locate a 2004 Limited V10 (2WD though) with only 18K miles. Yes, 18,000 miles on her. When I inspected her, she looked factory new except for the Android Auto and the 17" dvd/blu-ray player in the back. In November, the truck had a weak start, so I took it in to a local mechanic, (there is no dealership mechanic near me). He informed me that the alternator was drawing off the battery and replaced it. After he replaced it he could not get it to start and the computer was throwing a P0232 code. (fuel pump or full pump relay). Anyway he replaced the fuel pump but the truck would still not start, just crank.

After a month of it sitting in the shop and him tinkering with it, I started looking into the issue myself. This is when I found this forum and realized that I could not just go the the parts store and purchase a new fuse box, so looked into other options. Having the one from my truck rebuilt was what I was stuck with. So I directed them to take mine and send it to one of the fuse box repair sites I found on the internet. The mechanic did and then silence from the fuse box repair guys (FBRGs). Finally this week, the mechanic got a hold of the FBRGs and got a tracking number through the USPS. USPS says they don't know where it is, call back next month and maybe they can find it.

I have since signed up for a parts locating service and now have 2 on the way. Hopefully one or both are good and the mechanic can plug it in a give me my truck back.

My question to the forum is: has anyone found a solution that does not involve a scavenger hunt for an increasingly rare part to find?

 

For an entire fuse box, not really. However the fuel pump relay is the gauge cluster if I remember correctly. With a little electrical knowledge that circuit can be re-directed to use a standard relay mounted somewhere better serviceable.

The gauge clusters do go wonky sometimes too. For them I've used Circutboard Medics without issue. https://circuitboardmedics.com/

 

Need additional help here. This may be a long post and if so, I apologize in advance. To begin.

I secured a used fuse box (2 actually, turns out the first one was DOA) got it installed then realized that I needed 2 keys to reprogram and get the truck to start. The dealer I bought the truck from only supplied me with one key. Lesson learned there. I got a second key and had a locksmith program it for the truck, so now I have 2 keys. The shop that is working on it has a guy coming with a specific program to reprogram the computer. My problem is I don't know enough to know whether it is true or not. I beginning to think if I should total an Excursion with under 20k miles on it. I really don't want to, but I need options here. What should I be doing at this stage. Should I have it towed to a ford service center so they could reprogram it, is that a thing really? The nearest ford dealer/service center is an hour and a half away. This Excursion has literally placed me on an excursion to get her running again.

Additional information on the Excursion, 2004 Limited, V10, 20K miles

 

Don,

thanks for the advice. Unfortunately, the shop took my old FB out and sent it to another repair/refurbish business (via USPS w/delivery confirmation). Let's call them ABC fuse box repair. ABC first claimed that they repaired it and returned it but could not provide a tracking number. Then they claimed that the never received it, when the shop has confirmation that it was delivered. I got in contact with a couple of junk yards and had them send fuse boxes for a 2004 Excursion, V10 (did not know if others would work, did not want to risk it). The shop installed the FB but then asked me for a 2nd key which I did not get from the dealer. I did get a locksmith to program another key for it, now everything lights up, the shop just needs to get past fords PASS system, whatever that is.

 

Torvald,

I believe Forscan can be used to reprogram additional keys as long as one "current" programmed key is on-hand. I'll be working on this over the weekend and can report back with my results.