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UPC: 732611891806
Header Style: Full-length
Header Material: Steel
Header Finish: Painted
Weld-Up: No
Primary Tube Diameter (in): 1 3/4 in.
Flange Style: Standard
Collector Attachment: Ball and socket flange
Collector Diameter: 3.000 in.
Collector Reducers Included: Yes
Collector Reducer Exit Diameter: 2.500 in.
Tuned: No
Primary Tube Gauge: 18-gauge
Flange Thickness (in): 1/4 in.
Bolts/Studs Included: Yes
A friend gave me a set of the above headers. They were quite rusty to say the least. But they were free. When I began cleaning them up I noticed the flange was only 1/4" thick. Now I have read on here that the better models have 3/8" flanges. So I was going to sand the flange smooth (there was a lot of welding splatter) and add another flange to the one that was on there. Of course it would be welded all the way around the outside and around the insides of the openings. I have some pictures to help explain my question.
Here is what I started with. Some of the splatter that I started to remove. Notice the lip around the opening. The lip stands up 0.35. Here is the lip on the other end of the flange. It stands up 0.37
Pretty crusty looking. It will take some time to get in between all the tube to clean them up enough to paint. I know this because I did the same to the Black Jack header I bought 25 years ago. I would think if you going to the trouble to add a flange to the existing one you might as well remove the flange and weld on a 3/8" one
Now my questions are :1. Is this lip on the flange openings to help seal onto the exhaust manifold gasket? And if it is; should I abandon the idea of sanding the original flange smooth and adding a second metal piece to reach the 3/8" goal(because the second piece wouldn't have the lips around the openings to help seal to the gasket)? #2. If I have to stay with the 1/4" flange, which exhaust manifold gasket would be better. More pics:
I got most of the larger rust off. I did find the model # stamped into the flange:89180. But not the company name. They must not be very proud of this model.
Last edited by GaryKip; Dec 9, 2016 at 07:38 AM.
Reason: Just felt like it.
Try to get them glass bead blasted. THere is a powder coat that withstands 900-1000*. If the head surface is not in good condition get a set of the copper gaskets from Summit.
2. Remflex... I'd add a thin, thin smear of high temp RTV for extra stickiness and sealing. Allow to fully cure before fire-up.
2X 1. and 2. in stead of adding more flange. The RTV will make the extra thick flange unnecessary.
3. Use "Stage 8" brand header bolts so they won't loosen.
2X 1. and 2. in stead of adding more flange. The RTV will make the extra thick flange unnecessary.
3. Use "Stage 8" brand header bolts so they won't loosen.
3X on all the above.
Grade 8, heat treated. I have found the are less likely to get "frozen" in the head and don't round off as easily when you torque on them.
In the past, I have taken used headers to a machines hope and had them surfaced on the flywheel surfacing machine.
I used a long board(for sanding long flat surfaces) to level my new headers.
They were Hookers and the weld they put around the ports was uneven and I didn't want them to leak. I flat boarded them til they all leveled up nicely. The header will tweak slightly when tightened, but you need a nice, wide flat surface if you want them to seal well.
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