Since this is my first carbureted vehicle there's a lot I need to learn/understand about the basic operation. Besides that, the 302 doesn't really like to cold start. Most mornings since I've owned it... Let's see...6 days....it really doesn't like starting up. Gotta feather the throttle to keep it from dying off. Eventually after several die offs and restarts it'll stay running, albeit poorly until it warms up. Then for the rest of the day it is not really an issue. So in a vehicle with a choke I would say the choke would help this issue, but on my truck there is no manual choke that I can pull to keep her running.
So what part of the puzzle am I missing here? What can I do to help in the morning cold start. I'm gonna google a bit, but that info is typically too general for my liking.

Thanks in advance.

 

And just to show I'm not a total nincomepoop I did try to figure out which version of the 2 barrel motorcraft carb this is. But in true backyard mechanic fashion.....That info is no where to be seen by the naked eye.




Now it was mentioned the other day that my carb has two vacuum ports capped off and that they should be hooked up to something instead. It was noted that there is a port on one of the manifolds that should run to one of them. I see a tiny rusted over nipple on the passenger manifold, but it looks rusted shut. If this is it... Any ideas on cleaning? Then which nipple does this go to on the carb?
Here's the two blocked off ports that I was advised should be hooked up.

 

To set the choke press the gas pedal to the floor. the choke plate should close. In you last photo the lower fitting that is blocked off looks like the choke uses a air tube that runs off the exhaust manifold. You could buy an electric choke kit for it. You'll just need to find a power source that turns on with the key.

 

They make a heat riser replacement tube. Goes down to manifold and clamps on, then the tube hooks to where yours is plugged off. There is vacuum at that port that will draw the warm air into the choke making it function properly.

Dorman Products - 55111

Or you could buy an electric version and wire it up to a keyed 12v source.

Or get a manual choke cable?

That metal hanger on the side of the choke body was meant to support the heater hose, also allowing heat to transfer to the choke body.

 

Interesting. Seems easy enough. I suppose it would require me to get the old nipple out of the crusty manifold huh? That might be a job. Not really wanting to do anything extra, so if that $10 will solve my issue I'm down for that. So what you're saying is that my pcv hose from the right side(driver) valve that I currently have running under the carb housing to the port in the back should actually sit on that ledge? Which vacuum does the manifold lead we are looking at connect to? The higher one or the lower fatter one?

 

So are we thinking I have a 2100 model or a 2150? Or something else... How can you tell?

 

Your vacuum hose doesn't go in that holder, your heater hose would have. But I would not worry about it at this point.

If you attach that new choke tube to that fitting on the back of the choke(that has a hose with a bolt stuck in it), then just clamp the little cover to the exhaust manifold and stick the other end of the metal tubing in it. All it is doing is sucking hot air off the manifold into the choke housing. Really simple.

 

And this $10 kit may solve my cold start and warm start issues? How does it help with cold start? If the manifold is cold then why would the vacuum air be any different than just outside temperature

 

Your choke is not actuating. When the motor starts the exhaust manifold gets warm. The choke tube is cold when the motor starts so the choke butterfly can close. when the air being pulled up the tube gets warm it heats a bi-metal spring and the choke plate starts to open. Thus making the choke functional.

 

^^Yes. Your choke is not functioning at all, thus it is hard to start and won't idle.

Once you hook this tube up you can set your choke as follows:
Loosen the three screws on the clamp of the black body of choke.
Hold throttle wide open
Rotate(typically CCW) the black housing til the choke plate just barely closes, not beyond. It is a very fragile setting. Might take a couple tried to just get it right. Closing it too much/tight will cause the choke to say on too long. You should notice a hash mark on the housing and the lines on the aluminum casting. That is the marks that allow you to fine adjust it and have a reference point.

Let go of the throttle and tighten the three screws again.
You're done.

Now, to set the choke(when truck is cold) you push the throttle once(to the floor). This allows the plate to close and the throttle to come up on the high idle screw. Start truck and allow to warm up. As the choke spring warms it slowly opens the choke blade(it warms due to the fact it is drawing warm air from the tube going down to the manifold). Tapping the throttle just lightly will take the weight off the linkage and allow it to drop to a slow idle. There is a small screw on the choke mechanism, that is your HI idle setting. Turn it CW to get higher RPM, turn CCW to reduce HI idle speed.

If you buy an electric choke, it does the same thing but it has its own heating element to warm the spring and open the choke over a short period of time. That is why you hook it to a 12v keyed source.

 

I'd guess you have a 2100.

Here is a little video I found that will help you see the differences:

 

Deleted what I wrote here cause it was a stupid question. Rofl

 

Soo... disregard my last post. I have had a mental breakthrough. I just want to make sure I understand this so I'm gonna say it out loud.
The exhaust manifold heat tube will assist the choke after the truck has been running to determine how open or closed it should be during the day/upon startup.... Which is why I have occasional starting issues, since mines open all the time because of no heat tube and is not self-adjusting
On a cold start morning, depressing the gas pedal will have the same effect because it will reset the choke to nearly closed richening the mix. Then the heat tube will close/open the butterfly itself based on temperature...
It should be closed if the motor is cold/cool right?.
Am I getting close? Yes...no... Not even close?

 

This sums it up it think. Since that choke tube port thats capped with a hose and screw isnt allowed to cool down and the heat is retained, and the butterfly never closes. ???

I've been at work for over 3 hours now and the butterfly is as open as ever. And now that I think of it I don't think I've ever seen it close since I've owned the truck...maybe something is wrong with the choke too... Hmm. How to test that? Just for kicks I should pull that plug and see if it closes during the rest of my shift.

It doesn't help that I'm dealing with the overheating issue with my coolant boiling. Ill leave that for another thread.

 

I notice that your trans kick down linkage is not attached to the carb linkage.

You might try closing the choke plate some by adjusting the round black disc cup think on the upper side of the carb once to get the hot air pickup tube in place. The choke adjustment may have been backed off before you bought it.