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PCM Advice needed

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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 05:10 PM
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PCM Advice needed

I think I am going to have to replace my PCM and I have a 1994 1996 and 1997 available to pull parts. I don't know the configuration of the vehicle until I get there.

My question is will one of those years work on my 95 and can I use one from an automatic or must it be a standard M5OD like mine. Or anything else I need to I need to know? Thank You in advance.


 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 05:17 PM
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If those donors are F150s then the only viable one is the 1994. 1996 is OBD-II and the 1997 is a completely different generation OBD-II computer. Since a 1994 F150 with an automatic would have an electronic controlled E4OD transmission the computer is not going to be happy when it does not sense all the transmission solenoids and MLPS on the driver side of the transmission.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 07:46 PM
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Got it. Thank you for the response again. Sandy
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 08:03 PM
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You have a calibration code on a sticker in your driver's door jam. The calibration code is important to know what components on your truck are matched to each other. For example, the PCM must be matched to the correct EGR valve or you will likely experience bucking and hesitation.

You can get the correct reman replacement PCM/ECU on Rock Auto for $176 minus a $45 core, or on Amazon for $175...probably a safer bet.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by moonley
You have a calibration code on a sticker in your driver's door jam. The calibration code is important to know what components on your truck are matched to each other. For example, the PCM must be matched to the correct EGR valve or you will likely experience bucking and hesitation.

You can get the correct reman replacement PCM/ECU on Rock Auto for $176 minus a $45 core, or on Amazon for $175...probably a safer bet.
Can you please tell me where the cal code is and I will check with them where the truck is located. The person I spoke with was not at the location. The PCM price is about $50.00. I might buy it here if the code matches because either way it is a gamble as to whether any of them will even work. I will go with RA or Amazon if nothing works out here. Thanks Sandy


 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 10:31 PM
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Ther are several on eBay. It appears you have a 4.9. As long as the numbers match you are good to go. You can pull yours and check inside for bad capacitors. And repair it if you can solder.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by wtroger
Ther are several on eBay. It appears you have a 4.9. As long as the numbers match you are good to go. You can pull yours and check inside for bad capacitors. And repair it if you can solder.
Thank you. I posted pictures of the board in another thread. Nothing looked bad. I am probably better off not fooling with soldering the board and possibly ruining it in case the next one is bad.
It is a 4.9 and I don't know what numbers need to match so I can compare. Which numbers on the picture are you referring to?
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 11:36 PM
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If you can find an "ANT1", your spot on.

Its not shown in the above pic.

The smaller label that says "calibration" is more accurate.

 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 11:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Scndsin
If you can find an "ANT1", your spot on.

Its not shown in the above pic.

The smaller label that says "calibration" is more accurate.

Thank You Glad it wasn't a snake!!! Mine was much higher up in the door, but clearly visible. Do my numbers need to all match when I replace it?
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 01:10 AM
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The f3tf-12a659-tb is the important one followed by ANT1 the ones I found on eBay where an exact match every letter. I bought one for my 05 van and got an exact match. It worked perfectly.
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by wtroger
The f3tf-12a659-tb is the important one followed by ANT1 the ones I found on eBay where an exact match every letter. I bought one for my 05 van and got an exact match. It worked perfectly.
Great. Thank you.
 
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