I have a 1986 F150 302 2WD this is the stuff done to it and what Im having problems with. Most of the truck still has original parts, 35,000 miles.

1.) I have an oil leak that isn't that bad to my knowledge because its just a spot here and there on the garage. I thought it might be the gasket originally. But my gauge drops down to L after driving it for a short amount of time and its level is okay first starting up about midway between L & H. I saw the gauge drop down Saturday and just added a qrt of oil, not even looking at the dip stick, so now the levels look high on the stick but low on the gauge. Why is this and what can I do? I've started to clean underneath the truck of all the old stuck to oil to see if that'll help.

2.) The water pump was replaced just before I bought it and about 2 weeks later I replaced a hose that carried coolant because I was able to figure out that leak. Not sure the name of the hose, its the one that runs from the engine to, I think the radiator. (Green fluid, easy to trace)

3.) I put a heater core in it but dont think that should really effect the engine all that much.

4.) The seller said the timing was off on the truck, my dad looked at it and said its supposed to have a 'wedge' at a certain spot which is why the timing is off, and where the wedge is supposed to be, someone just put a washer there in it's place. (He knows engines somewhat but has also been completely dumb about them before too so I dont know if he's right about that.)

I listed everything that I know that's been done and what problems are going on in case one causes another. Im supposed to get help on it next week but the sooner I understand what's wrong and how to fix it the faster I can actually do it. Any help that can be given is extremely appreciated.

 

1. It is always best to determine the source of the leak and repair it before it gets worse. With that said, it does not seem to be the source of low oil pressure from what you described. You should check the pressure from the source. That is to remove the sensor and test with a gauge directly.


2. I am assuming this is the top hose you replaced from what you said. If not leaking anymore then OK. Check coolant level periodically.


3. The heater core should not affect anything except if leaking.


4. A good rule of thumb is 8 degrees BTC. That is a good place to start. As far as the wedge, I am assuming you are talking about the part that is in between the distributor and the manifold. This sets the height for the distributor to line with the gear in the engine. It also allows for ease of turning the distributor when you loosen for adjustment. It should be 1/4 inch or so in depth. These are easy to find at the junk yard, but should be available for order on line as well. Get one if there is just a thin washer in its place.

 

Not sure I follow you 100% here, but it kind of sounds like you're thinking of two things. The dash gauge shows oil pressure, not quantity as you may be thinking. Forgive me if I've got it wrong, but that's what I get reading between the lines. Now very low quantity can starve the oil pump and cause low pressure, but I don't think that's what is happening.

With the engine running, as long as the oil pressure shows within the normal range, you should be fine. It's perfectly normal for a cold engine to have higher oil pressure when first started, as the oil is thicker. Once the oil warms up and thins out, you can expect to see oil pressure decrease a little bit.

 

Everything the others have said is spot-on. But on the oil pressure there is another potential problem. Bcamill was suggesting it when he said to test the oil pressure at its source with a gauge. Basically, the gauge system on these trucks leaves a lot to be desired. They weren't accurate from the start, and most have gotten worse over time. So, many of us run aftermarket gauges under the dash.

One source of problems on the gauges is the Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator, or ICVR. It supplies voltage to the oil pressure, water temp, and fuel level gauges. And it can easily drop the readings on all three suddenly. So, watch those three gauges to see if you can tell if there's an abrupt drop on all three.

 

The "wedge" I think you talk about is the clamp that keeps the dist from turning when you tighten the bolt.
It sounds like some one lost it and used a flat washer to hold the dist from turning.


If you cant find one in a junk yard make one.
I would find a thick washer or take 2 or 3 and weld them on the sides. then take 2 or 3 and cut in half. Stack them and weld them to 1 side of the flat washers.
When you go to install the half side gets placed on the dist.
Set timing and tighten down bolt.
Dave ----