Rear blocks
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Enterprise, Alabama
I just put the same kit on mine a couple of weeks ago. I still have factory rear springs, and I probably have close to two inches of threads showing on the u bolts. The factory ones had about a half inch.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 139
Likes: 0
From: Enterprise, Alabama
I bought them on eBay $112.34 with free shipping, Link below, I would think you should be able to negotiate a little bit.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131661248992?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/131661248992?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7,460
Likes: 85
From: Kent Station, WA
99-10 ford f250 ready lift 4" rear block kit 66-2094
Do Excursion's use a tapered or flat block? Thread below should answer your questions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ar-blocks.html
Do Excursion's use a tapered or flat block? Thread below should answer your questions.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...ar-blocks.html
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Avis PA
Flat blocks ok?
I know this is an old thread, but I found it doing a search for info. Last week I ordered a set of 4" flat blocks and U-bolts from SDSprings.com, and I installed them today. Upon removing the stock blocks I realized that they are tapered. I ordered the flat blocks as I was under the impression that only the longer wheelbase trucks needed the tapered ones. I installed the new blocks anyway since I was sick of the front end sitting higher than the rear for the last 2 months due to my X codes. Will this hurt anything? Am I going to need to buy tapered blocks instead? Tapered shims? Thanks in advance for any help.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 8,259
Likes: 346
From: Northern California
Go drive it, I bet you have a noticeable driveline vibration at 35-40 mph.
If it is vibrating then yes that is bad.
If it is vibrating then yes that is bad.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
If I remember correctly, the tapered block is associated with a driveshaft that has a double cardin ujoint setup up by transfercase.
It corrects driveshaft angles for that driveshaft.
Flat block is for a single ujoint on each end of driveshaft.
So I agree....check your driveshaft to rear pinion angles.
It corrects driveshaft angles for that driveshaft.
Flat block is for a single ujoint on each end of driveshaft.
So I agree....check your driveshaft to rear pinion angles.
Freshman User
Joined: Jun 2017
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Avis PA
I'll take it for a spin in as soon as I finish my Oreos and milk.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 1,576
Likes: 41
From: Wyoming
The proper angle depends on the setup.
If you have a double cardin setup the angle between the pinion and driveshaft should be between 0 and 2 degrees or so. The closer to 0 the better. In other words a straight line from pinion to driveshaft up to DC joint. That DC joint takes all angle.
If you have single u joints at each end of driveshaft the angle between the rear pinion and driveshaft should = the angle between the transfer case out put shaft and driveshaft.
If you have a double cardin setup the angle between the pinion and driveshaft should be between 0 and 2 degrees or so. The closer to 0 the better. In other words a straight line from pinion to driveshaft up to DC joint. That DC joint takes all angle.
If you have single u joints at each end of driveshaft the angle between the rear pinion and driveshaft should = the angle between the transfer case out put shaft and driveshaft.