I’m not new to diesels, although this is my first Ford. 2008 6.4L 165K miles full delete. Bought this truck at auction already deleted. Found an H&S pod mount instructions in glove box and so I’m thinkin it had their software loaded to it. I knew it had sat a while, but did fire up no problems. I have already replaced all fuel filters (actually learned I did them backwards, and did not cycle the key) and had no issues re-starting! I’ve put at minimum 30 minutes but no more than 1 hour run time on this thing post filter change. I’ll get to the gritty. . This all started when I pulled a P0201 code for Injector Cylinder 1. I pulled the valve cover to troubleshoot the injector, following a post I saw few days back. All checked out fine with the #1 compared with #3, and so I cracked loose the fuel line going to the #1 injector. The line was dry and thought it was strange, but I had changed out the FRP sensor prior and remember no fuel came out then either. Before pulling into the garage the truck was running rough –but thought this was due to a P0193 code FRP pressure Circuit High (again). So I put the line back on, tightened the darn out of it –I know these things see a 26K psi at times. I depressed the Schrader valve at the fuel cooler and got only a minute bit of air out. I didn’t think this was enough, and so I took the Schrader valve out, hard lesson learned. I re-installed it and I fashioned a homemade tool connected the Schrader valve with a ball valve to cycle the key-on and purge out the air. I have ran the batteries down cranking trying to get it to fire. I am now getting no more air bubbles –had to get another diesel pickup to keep juice on the batteries. After 3 hours, 6 hours total, cannot get this thing to fire off! Am I missing something simple? Everything I have done to this point before reading the forum I have done backwards and all has been fine! Could it be that just now I am seeing the effect of the filter change being done backwards? On my scanner I can see the live FRP, it has to be the cmd, it is sitting at 29Kpsi. At this point should I re-pull the filters and start fresh?

 

How about opening up the cover on the fuel filter housing under the hood and cycling the key. Do you get fuel filling in there? If not then maybe an issue with a misaligned frame rail fuel filter or weak fuel pump.

 

Thank you for the reply. I am getting fuel in the second housing by the engine. I have loosened the cap and cycled the key until fuel ran out, then tightened down. I plan on pulling the filters and check for their damage or seating problems, this time frame rail first.

 

I went through same thing last week! are you using a motorcraft filter in the frame rail? I know it may sound odd but it does make a difference, you are deleting codes each time before starting ( just checking) The frame rail filter cap doesn't have to be overly tight just nip it up with a 36mm socket 2' extension and ratchet works best. You can also loosen the banjo bolt ( one behind Schrader valve on fuel cooler ) you may have air on that side. If all is good key on 25 30 seconds purge for 6 cycles then try Schrader valve again.

 

I don't think I bought the Motorcrafts . . .I've seen other threads mentioning the same. I'll be picking some up and installing for certain before re-attempting to start. I did begin to bleed the high side by loosening the banjo and cycling the key. Made a horrible mess of course. I tightened it back down and have now only focused on the low side with schrader valve. I picked up a banjo bolt with 1/8" FNPT threads to bleed the high side. Hopefully this will resolve (fresh MC filters and bleeding high side. Most likely my next attempt to start won't be until this weekend . .

 

It lives! I was able to locate a banjo bolt with 1/8" threads in the top. I used this on the high pressure side of the fuel cooler to bleed the air. I followed a sequence of cycling the key about 10 times initially and noticed I was not getting a whole lot of air anymore. I closed off the tubing I had attached and cranked it over for about 30 seconds. Still sputtering and not taking off, I opened the valve back open and cycled the key approx. 6 more times -more air came out. I repeated this a few more times and started getting frustrated. I was not getting any air whatsoever from the schrader valve.

I put my scanner back on, and had codes for injectors 1-3-5-7. The week prior, I had taken out the wet loom from the valvcover to inspect for wear, not seeing anything conclusive I put back in. Well, apparently I did not get the clasps in place and the engine harness was not totally seated making contact. I pulled the wet loom up further and put the EH back on that bank. Went back to the cab and cranked -it fired off. So, lesson learned on that connector.

After letting it idle for a few minutes I shut it off and began removing my tools and tubing. I noticed water seeping out from 2 different exhaust pipe connects. Checked the oil, and sure enough it was milky, degas bottle totally dry. I tried to top it off, but after 2 gallons and no end in sight I stopped. So backing up a month I had to replace a missing freeze plug between cylinders 3-5. So at this point I'm thinking HG's right, but doing some research I might be leaning towards the front cover or oil cooler. My reasoning -2 weeks ago when I had pulled the PCV breather tube going to the breather filter it was filled with water! I cant comprehend if it were the cooler or cover how the coolant would get into the exhaust. Degas bottle looks as if it had oil in it at one time.

I know this truck had sat for some time and so when I got it home I changed the oil and added seafoam, changed again. I will try to add a pic of the pass side valve cover. What are you guys hearing on HG's vs oil cooler vs front cover ?

 

what a mess...there's going to be a lot of clogging in oil and cooling systems

 

Yeah, I thought the same. Had some encouragement tonight. Drained the radiator and crystal clear coolant. Does not dismiss the water jacket though. When I pulled out of the garage and parking, the next day noticed grey sludge on my ccv tube ran to drivers side wheel well. Thinking that coolant is passing thought to crankcase and venting when there is least resistance. . . Via the front cover.

 

if you have water pump cavitation coolaant will enter the oil system but oil will not enter the coolant system. coolant contamination of oil normally results in milky brown oil upon inspections of highly circulated oil. when it sits for a while like 2 days or so you can acutally unscrew the oil drain plug down to minus a half thread and water will run out since water is heavier that oil. BUT, that goop that you have does not look like coolant contamination to me....it looks more like fuel contamination that mixed in with some water that may have been in your oil system thru condensation.

you got some serious investigating to do to get to the bottom of this.

on a 6.4 fuel can leak into the oil from the HPFP drive axle, a leaking injecotr seal, a leaking injector line and of course the regen process.

 

Thank you for the response. Upon first time draining the oil there where white blobs that ran out. So thought best to run some seafoam through, then changed again. Now since I have (had) coolant in it, looks like I'll have to do that process again. Did some thinking earlier, if headgaskets, I would see white spots inside my exhaust up pipes and downpipe. I'm puking oil/coolant from the CCV hose and that's my reasoning for the bad front cover- overfilling the crankcase and fluid goes where least resistive.

 

Update: Front cover is eaten away quite a bit and has a visible pin hole, will try having it welded and built up. When I removed the cover, I noticed some oily residue in the coolant, and so I pulled the oil cooler as well. Is there supposed to be a puddle of coolant in the valley of the motor, around the oil cooler?