Howdy

Been visiting this site for a long time and finally made an account so I could pick yall's brains. Long story short, I'm looking at a 1976 F150 for sale on CL. This is all I know so far:
360 bored over to 390 rebuild
rebuilt 8000 miles ago
New carburator 2 years ago
1/2 ton, Automatic.
Now I plan to go check this sucker out this week but before I fall in love with a shiny turd, what do yall recommend I be on the look out for? I'm no idiot with vehicles so I'm more so looking for specific pros/cons in regards to this body style that I am not aware of and maybe you are. drive train id, swapped parts, stuff like that.
Apparently when the 360 was rebuilt the current owner swapped the rotating assembly from a "good used" donor 390. Also said he had hardened valve seats thrown in, bored it .030 over and had the heads professionally done. hopefully. Just in case im gonna be bringing some hand tools and a dowel rod in hopes hell let me check lol.

much obliged for your time and i would be very pleased if yall would enlighten me. so to speak

steve

 

Checkout this great post by Rich (77&79F250):

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15371152


New truck buying excitement….First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.

Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s).
Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.
How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?

Fluid Check.
Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old?
Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake?
Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid.
Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled.
Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.

Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….
Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if elec choke works. Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time.
Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?

Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)? CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.

Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ? Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!)
__________________
77&79 F250 Rich & Penny
77 351M auto, a/c, add a leaf 33x12.50's
78 (79 headlights) 460 4 spd, 4", a/c and 35's
79 351M 4spd 6" Skyjacker Edelbrock-Holley-Hedman 35's
99 Ranger 4x4, 98 Expedition 4x4, 73 Bronco Hillbilly-Bug
71 Bronco 302 38.5 Super Sawmpers 5.58 gears spool/locker

 

Hey Steve, first off, welcome to the FTE
Well like you mentioned, your already going to try to back up what you've been told about the engine. I'd go around and get a good look at the sheet metal, body wise, floor pans, and in the bed. Crawl underneath and see what the rubber body mounts look like, does the body set nice and straight, or is is sagging on any corners. Peek at the front suspension, have any ball joint, tie rod ends, bushings for the radius arms. Drive it and see how the brakes feel, and peek at the front calipers and rear backing plates to see if there are any leaks in the brake system. Check the lights, specially the turn and brake lights, bad grounds can be a big pain in the butt on this older iron. Transmission shift like it should? Smell the fluids for burned smell, and current levels.
There I think that's a good start. I'm sure you'll get more ideas shortly

Unk Bob

 

Great post by Celtic one. Also be wary of when you show up, the truck is all warmed up and has clearly been driven around a bit. That's a hint that the truck might run like crap on cold starts, etc, and the owner nixed your ability to check that.

 

Appreciate that, D-rat, but the props go to Rich.

Good point on it being warm when you get there. Ask him/her to make sure it hasn't been started that day?

 

Thanks Bruce, but the props go to HIO Silver for the meat and potatoes of that info, I just added some of my $.02 gravy. lol

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post15371152

Steve welcome to FTE, if all that has been done to the motor I would ask for the receipt. If that motor work is the sellers (big ticket $ reason item) I would want to see a receipt or get the rebuild shops name.

Post up the Craigslist add or post some pics when you go look at it and we will eye ball it for you. Big deal to ck on these trucks, fwd cab mounts for rust. PITA to replace. Steering/steering box play. And all the other info you will get on here.

 

Well I'll be damned lol. I always heard you FTE guys knew your stuff and truth be told. Honestly though I wanna send out a big thanks to you guys. That was exactly the kinda stuff I wanted to learn before I checked the truck out. After reading all your replies I have a few questions on account that yall seem to know whats up.

1. Dumb question first but is there an exact spot on the frame for the vin plate?All the older fords I've seen had the plate on the pass side top rail behind the tire. Safe to assume its the same spot?
2. He said he put a new carb on it not too long ago but didn't say if it was oem reman or aftermarket. If I ain't wrong, didn't the 2v 390's get a MotorCraft and the 4v's had the Holley's? Same for 360?
3. What are the most common gear ratio's for similar year trucks? I'm gonna guess the tags are gone but if the door tag is too I'm just gonna give it the ole seat-o-the-pants dyno. Ive read alot were 3.50?
4. And finally the kicker. I live in PA and this here beaut is a buckeye truck. I planned to take it to a big name repair shop and have them look it over before I drive it home and then cant inspect it. Any suggestions for what shop would be the most "honest" and not just try to make a buck?

Hopefully I attached the images from the CL add correctly so you guys can give her a looksy. I'd post the add but the seller's address is visable.

Much obliged
Steve

 

^^^ Thanks Rich. You make great gravy!

To the OP:

1. The frame VIN stamp is on top of the right frame rail between the coil spring tower and the core support.. it **should** be there. ... but my 73 doesn't have one and it doesn't appear to have ever had one.

2. Carb should be an Autolite/Motorcraft 2150.. two barrel.

3. For a half-tone, 3.50 is common but it can also be a 3.25 or even a 3.00.. Depends. If the previous owner(s) installed a tach, then note the tire height and RPM at a given speed and solve for the gear ratio. The easiest one to use is Summit's gear ratio calculator.

4. Ah... in Ferrari-speak, you're looking for a PPI or "Pre-Purchase Inspection". I recall PA requires bi-annual vehicle inspections so that is your minimum. I'd call around and talk to some shops to see what they charge for a PPI.

Some resources:
Used Car Pre-Purchase Inspections | DMV.org

https://www.ammonyc.com/wp-content/u...byStep_R1B.pdf

How to Buy a Used Car Without Getting Burned - PM's 101-Point Checklist

http://pop.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/15/06/...-checklist.pdf

Checklist for Inspecting Used Cars | DMV.org

.

 

$0.2 with pics. The VIN "should" be on the top of the passenger side frame rail inline with an area from the alternator to the exhaust manifold. And then the hard to see one, again on the top of the frame rail, about inline with the seat rail fwd bolt. Basically you have to have the cab off or cut a access spot.

I'd bet most places (insp and DMV) will only ck the dvrs side door edge Warranty Plate. It has the VI # on it too. Some people that are clueless, will look for it on the dash like new cars. lol

#1,2,3,4 HIO is spot on with those answers.

 

Forgot: IMO It is a toss up if you take it to a pro shop, they can rake you over the coals with BS maint issues or be honest, you just never know. Just going into it with as much knowledge as possible.

But if you join your FTE state chapter and see if any one that is a 73-79 guy might be close enough to go with you or meet you at the garage, just so you have some experience on your side. Pennsylvania Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

Common problems insp places find, elec lighting issues like: intermittent working brake lights, t/s light issues, no horn. Leaking m/s, weak emergency brake. Exhaust system failure, rusty frame mounted brake lines. WORN BALL JOINTS, Excessive play in the steering shaft/box.

 

Wow. Thank you again. I really appreciate the pictures too. The only reason I was hoping for a PPI at a big shop is kinda so they would BS me lol. I've only ever bought old project trucks that need alot of work for inspection so I have an idea of what a cheap old truck means but since its getting colder here I was hoping for them to point out the necessary immediate repairs. Plus I might try to use that as a bargaining point lol. Awesome info about the Pa section! Do i need to do anything special to join?

thanks again

steve

also did the pictures show up for you guys?

 

If it runs and drives AKA the big 3 in my book (starts, stops and steers) you are ahead of the game already. PPI at a shop? Is that like a safety insp that some states require?

We have the same thing in Missouri, some places are way stricter than others. Some will jack a truck up and pull a tire to ck the brake wear and ball joints. Some look at the tires and see if the wear pattern indicates bad ball joints....And ask a bunch of questions. Lights t/s, horn, muffler ect..

Click the PA chapter link and join up, your state chapter leader probably has to click "approve". Pics are there, I always dig a flat bed.

 

I would ask to see receipts on the engine. How does one bore a 360 to a 390? You would have to bore it to 4.210 to make it a 390. Stock bore is 4.050.