Love the highboys, I have a chance to get a 78 460 with rebuilt transmission for 3200. Paint and body in great condition. Is this a good deal? What is it worth? Thanks

 

Have any pics?? How does she run? Just fyi, the highboy's were only produced as a dentside from 1973 til 1977.5. The best way to tell, is a crossmember right behind the front bumper, and they had a drive shaft between the trans and the transfer case. If you live in the rust belt, or any place where a truck over 30 is usually quite rusty, it sounds like an okay deal to me. Best advice I've ever heard: "It's worth whatever it's worth to you!"

 

X2 the 78 will NOT be a true Highboy. A 78 will be a "lowboy with the 2 leafs for the front leaf springs and a married xfer case. 460 is not a factory motor either for a 78 4x4. So look over the swap in very well. Especially if it has front sump oil pan and car exhaust manifolds. Leaving on the passenger side car manifold can cause people to think that need to notch the top of the frame rail to get it in.

Here is truck buying advice 101. First relax, do not show your enthusiasm to the seller! Act as if it is easy come, easy go. Here are some basics for checking out one of these rigs. Lots of mental notes to take! A written checklist is also OK to bring with you if needed. BE READY TO START MAKING A LIST TO DISCUSS WITH THE OWNER.
Basic Visual Inspection: TITLE TITLE TITLE 1st CHECK THE VI# ON THE PAPER TITLE, THEN AGINST THE DVRS DOOR (WARRENTY PLATE) AND THEN THE (SAFETY STANDARDS CERTIFICATION LABEL) THIS IS NOT, I SAY AGAIN NOT THE VIN PLATE! THE ACTUAL VIN IS STAMPED ON THE FRAME! AND IT IS NOT ON THE DASH EITHER.
Do a bumper to bumper visual inspection; this is also time to go on “Visual Hack Patrol” – All those so-called “repairs” made by previous owners. Look for duct tape, household wire nuts, electrical tape, wood screws, wires that go to nowhere.

Any leaks on the ground? What about the drum backing plates (wheel cylinder) or the pinion seal(s). Look for loose, missing, or broken hardware like lugs, lug nuts, fender and bumper bolts, and bell housing to engine bolts. Feel around for soft or cracked hoses – radiator hoses degrade from the inside. Crimp it with your hand and it should have the same firmness all the way around.How do the radius arm bushings look? Rock the truck back and forth..any squeaks??? 4x4, ck the trac bar bushings. And ck the 4x4 operation. 4Hi and 4low.
Are the tires evenly worn? Any leaf springs broken? All the glass good? Bed liner in it, lift up the end and look under it for rust. Tailgate work?

Fluid Check. Engine oil check, is it full and relatively clean. Or does it smell musty and old? Coolant, is there an oily sheen? Does it look like milkshake? Check level of auto trans, power steering, and brake fluid. Ask if there is anything on the engine that has been heli-coiled. Note any newish parts. Any “it’s been rebuilt” stories, show me a receipt.

Pre-Operation
Check for brake pressure, pedal low? Pedal sinks to floor? Comes back up slowly? Park brake work, if it’s a standard trans, that’s a biggie. Ask the owner BEFORE you put it on. It might NOT release. Check when truck is running and in gear it it’s an auto. The brake light on the dash will NOT COME ON WHEN YOU SET THE PARK BRAKE….Ask owner battery condition then, turn on the (key) ignition system to the 1st position (no engine start). Turn on everything - exterior and interior lights, dash lights (rheostat to the left to brighten), turn signals, hazards, heater controls, blower fan, wipers, horn, a/c radio. Does everything work? What about the gas gauge?
Turn it all off, then Start Engine. See if elec choke works.

Fire it up and let it idle and just listen to it. Ck oil pressure. Get out of the cab and get your head under the hood. Any leaks? Ticking sounds? Exhaust leaks/tail pipe blue smoke? Knocks, thumps or rattle? Hand blip the throttle and listen, ck oil pressure again after a few minutes of idle time. Squeeze the radiator hoses... they should not be pressurized. Hard hoses may mean a blown head gasket. Now get back in and turn all that pre operation stuff again. Does it all still work?

Let the owner drive it first and ride shotgun and just look, listen (have the stereo OFF) and get a feel for the truck, see how it drives. Does the owner chase the steering wheel all over the road, does it pull or any grinding noise, when he brakes? Does the transmission shift ok? Take over on the return drive and note how it tracks, turns, accelerates, and stops. Note the temp gauge and oil pressure reading....and is the heater working (hot air)? CAREFULLY, do a aggressive stop with your hands lightly on the wheel...does it track straight without assistance? Does it pull to one side or the other, any grinding noises? Park it and let it idle for about five minutes to check if it overheats. What does the temp gauge read?
Shut it off for 10 minutes and then restart it. Hopefully it starts right up. If not, then it can be a vapor lock, a carb that needs to be rebuilt, or defective ignition components like an ICU or coil.

Odd but… take note how clean or unkept the sellers property is or even their own vehicles. That's a sign on how detail-oriented they are. Ask every question about the truck, has it been wrecked, maint history, previous owner’s ? Cash talks, and BS walks or at least leaves without the truck, be serious about the ALL the issues found and what you might OR WILL need to address as soon as you buy it. Mention that to the owner, he might understand or maybe not care at all. Have your 1st CASH offer in one pocket and the rest of what you are willing pay in the other. Flash the cash, in a stack of 20’s, 50’s or 100’s, that always make it harder for the owner to say no.
Have fun, but remember it’s not the only truck for sale, and try not get caught up in the moment (yea right it’s a Ford truck man!)

Ford notorious rust spots... front underside of fwd cab mounts, cab floor pans, rocker panels, outer cab corners. Bed wheel wheel top curve part, and below the taillights. Roof drip rails....

 

77&79 250 covered all the major bases plus some. Also look under the dash. Examine the wiring there. Is it a rats nest? Look for crimps and wires that dangle.
Look at the fuses. Is the panel clean no spider nests? Are there extra wires that have been jerry rigged into it? Are the any sign of hot glue, tape, or fabrications in the area?

Along the rubber on the windshield on the inside where it meets meets metal look for rust or signs of a leak. Make sure the body panels are tight and the seams line up. Take a magnet check for bondo.

Look to see if the shock mounts are straight. While there check the rubber suspension parts for cracks and wear.

 

this is the only picture I have of it. It looks just like my gf's dad's 76 highboy. havent gone to look at it yet but the owner says its daily driven. Thanks for all the detailed info, if I end up getting a chance to look at it ill be sure to look that stuff over. also I am located in northern california so rust isnt too big of an issue. the owner also said she hasn't smogged it so im concerned whether the 460 has been refereed or not.
Let me know what ya think!

 

Welcome to the forums. That is a great looking truck. DO NOT I REPEAT DO NOT! buy that truck without it being smogged. In California it is sellers responsibility to smog before the sale. With that engine swap you could be asking for trouble if the truck was brought in from another state that does'nt require smog checks. Is it currently registered in CA ?

 

has california plates so assuming it has been registered in california. all that was stated in the post was that it should pass smog and that seller may smog it