spark plug recommendations please!
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 389
Likes: 5
Just wait ... the next project will be replacing the carburetor.
The one that is on there now has wires cut off handing out of it. The oxygen sensor also has the wire cut. There is a manual choke on the carb. The heater tube fitting is rusted into the manifold ... don't think I can get it out.
So, I need a drop-in carb so I don't need to rework the linkage.
It would be nice to have a choke ... maybe an electric one?
The truck runs but I wonder how well it would run with a good carb. This one was obviously suppose to be set by the computer (which is now non-existant).
Hmmmmm .... also I will need to find a place to tap the vacuum for the new distributor. Not sure what is there now. I think I saw some taps on the manifold. I hope this will not be too much vacuum.
I did order a re-curve kit for the distributor. If the vacuum advance is too strong then maybe I can reduce the mechanical advance ...... or not even use the vacuum advance and only the mechanical or ???????????
Thanks .... Mike
The one that is on there now has wires cut off handing out of it. The oxygen sensor also has the wire cut. There is a manual choke on the carb. The heater tube fitting is rusted into the manifold ... don't think I can get it out.
So, I need a drop-in carb so I don't need to rework the linkage.
It would be nice to have a choke ... maybe an electric one?
The truck runs but I wonder how well it would run with a good carb. This one was obviously suppose to be set by the computer (which is now non-existant).
Hmmmmm .... also I will need to find a place to tap the vacuum for the new distributor. Not sure what is there now. I think I saw some taps on the manifold. I hope this will not be too much vacuum.
I did order a re-curve kit for the distributor. If the vacuum advance is too strong then maybe I can reduce the mechanical advance ...... or not even use the vacuum advance and only the mechanical or ???????????
Thanks .... Mike
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Denver Metro Area, CO
Asking why is a Good Thing, it means you are inquisitive and want to know how something works... IMO this is a much preferable approach to things.... kudos.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
Spark likes to jump from sharp edges. So when the electrode gets rounded off over time, it's that much harder for the spark to jump the gap.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
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From: Waterloo, Iowa
Unless you're drag racing at the track, you always want vacuum advance, it adds better all around driveability and 3 to 4 mpg, maybe more. Curve the distributor to your engine with the vacuum advance disconnected initial + mechanical. This works out to 34 to 36 degrees "all in" before 3000 RPM. Then re-connect the vacuum advance. These are adjustable too. Start out pegged on the high side and back off till part throttle ping goes away.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,159
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Another major factor is overall service life when comparing copper, iridium, platinum, unobtainium, etc.
On an older engine with worn rings, imprecise fuel/air ratio, etc., you can expect the plugs to foul more easily. I've never been a big fan of cleaning spark plugs. Once they start to get carbon fouled, it's best just to change them.
In the real world with an older engine, it's highly unlikely you'll get the 100k+ miles promised with the expensive plugs. My personal opinion is I'm much better off with less expensive plugs and replacing them as needed.
On an older engine with worn rings, imprecise fuel/air ratio, etc., you can expect the plugs to foul more easily. I've never been a big fan of cleaning spark plugs. Once they start to get carbon fouled, it's best just to change them.
In the real world with an older engine, it's highly unlikely you'll get the 100k+ miles promised with the expensive plugs. My personal opinion is I'm much better off with less expensive plugs and replacing them as needed.
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