My V10 has developed a bit of a miss/rough idle in the past few days. It's not really bad, and it seems to run fine driving around and cruising. Seems to be an issue only at idle. Truck has not thrown a CEL light. I've used Torque Pro to read fault codes and there are none stored.

Before I start throwing money at it with new plugs, COP's, boots, etc. -- I'd like to be a little more methodical and spend money only where it's justified.

My question is this: is it possible to use Torque Pro to monitor, in real time, misfires on the V10?

I ask this under the assumption that my rough idle situation is the result of misfires. I see "Total Misfire Count" as an option in the Torque app, but it's showing zero. So maybe my assumption that rough idle is caused by misfires is incorrect??

Anyway, thanks in advance for any help.

 

Yes.
I don't claim to be an expert on this, but I will try to share what I have learned about using the Torque app.
To do this, obviously you will need to have Torque Pro running on your Android device and correctly connected to the vehicle OBD port.

On the Torque home screen, select "test results" and with the engine running wait a few minutes for the test results to load.
Do not navigate away from the test results screen.
Eventually, you will be able to scroll down and see results for the misfire tests for each cylinder, which is "test 53" and each cylinder is identified individually as CID:$01 (or 02, 03, etc.)
TID = test identification #
CID = cylinder identification #
Looks like this:

Torque Pro misfire sample


You can also check for total # of misfires using the free plugin "Torque Scan" available for Torque Pro users. This shows a whole lot of useful data on a long list.
Again, you will need to wait and be patient for it to load without navigating away from that screen.
For example, prepare for a test drive in the vehicle with the driveability issue by connecting your OBD interface and start the Torque Pro app prior to beginning the test drive. Leave Torque Pro "test results" running on the way to your waypoint, then stop and check it. Then change screens to "Torque Scan" On the way back to the garage.
It is often beneficial to have an assistant, one to drive and one to monitor whatever parameters you need to check.
Drive safely or you could cause a much bigger problem than a misfire.





Not necessarily.
Read and understand this before you do anything else:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...t-come-on.html

The total misfire count shown in the "Torque Scan" image above is for the current drive cycle only.
So when you turn off the key or clear/reset codes, it will reset the count.

In the example images above, notice that the cylinder misfire is "green checked" and green highlighted. The highlight indicates data is being reported for that test parameter, the green check indicates that there will be no code set or indicator light (MIL - per link above that you of course just read and now fully understand).

Note that the cylinders that are not misfiring are not highlighted and use the static black background. "Nothing to see here folks, just move along". Which in itself is often very useful data. It is as important to know what is NOT going on as it is to know what IS.

Items for which your OBD1 compliant 8500+ lbs Super Duty does not provide monitoring data will also show in Torque Scan as the static black background, unless you have changed the theme to show a different color.

This is a $20 scan for anyone with an existing Android device. It does not even require an activated data plan, just a wifi connection to download & pay for the Torque Pro app.

 

Dude, great info here. Thanks for taking the time to respond with so much information. I need to spend a few hours and digest all of what you've said. But I really appreciate all of this.

I've been using Torque Pro for years on many different vehicles. I'm definitely no expert, and I certainly don't use it to its fullest extent. But for $20, it's a complete no-brainer to having it in my "toolbox".

 

What code reader are you using to connect? I have a cheap OBD2 scanner that works on my other vehicles, but it won't work on the F250. It's pretty well known that the cheap knock off readers won't work on some Fords, but I haven't taken the time yet to go find one with bluetooth that will.

 

cokeman:
I'm using one of the cheap knock-off OBD transmitters. I think I paid about $15-20 for it. I don't have it with me at work, but I'll try to post more info on it later tonight from home.

Sam I Am:
Here's the results of my "Vehicle Test Results" scan. Appears my problematic cylinders are 6, 8, 10. I'd like to reset the misfire counts and drive it for another week with known zero'd out conditions. But I can't seem to find out how to do that.

Also, I'm not sure what "TID $04" is...

Test report:
------------------

TID:$04 CID:$11
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Max: 768 Min: 119
Test result value: 0
FAIL
----
TID:$04 CID:$21
- High sensor Voltage for switch time calculation
Max: 768 Min: 119
Test result value: 0
FAIL
----
TID:$53 CID:$06
-
Max: 64,768
Test result value: 65
PASS
----
TID:$53 CID:$08
-
Max: 64,768
Test result value: 196
PASS
----
TID:$53 CID:$0a
-
Max: 64,768
Test result value: 131
PASS
----

 

I don't know what all the codes mean but there are other people that do, or have the subscription to find them.

Try this to clear misfire counts, I don't know if it will work. I was thinking they reset at each drive cycle key off.
Go into "fault codes", scan for faults, click menu, "clear all codes on ECU".

 

Do you have 100k on the OEM factory plugs and COPs?
If so, you may just need new plugs and boot/springs.
The coils will last a long time.
Also, if the plugs are OEM when you change them could you check the torque before pulling them?
Our 2002 V10 had 108k with OEM plugs when #3 blew and the entire passenger side plugs were a bit loose.
You should have the 8 thread heads which are less prone to blow outs.
Check the boots/springs on 6, 8, & 10 for deterioration/rust/moisture.

 

No, my plugs aren't original OEM. I changed the full set out a couple of years ago. The set that's in there now has about 15k on them. Re-checking plugs for torque is a good suggestion. I'll try to do that this week sometime.

I did NOT change any of my COPs, boots, or springs when I swapped changed plugs. They all looked pretty good so I figured I'd leave well enough alone and leave them be.

I'm sorta under the impression that COPs *should* last a long long time. And when they do go, it'll be obvious. But, again, maybe I'm wrong on this account also? Can COPs be tested with a voltmeter for proper resistance?

 

You might try changing the boots/springs on 6, 8 & 10 and see if the misfires go away.
I change plugs/boots/springs at 50k.
The coil primary resistance can be measured with a VOM.
I need a better VOM, the one I have reads less than 1 ohm across the coil contacts.
The only bad coils I've had was one that cracked at the base of the connector that was hard to see and another had the connector broken off when the plug blew out.
I've seen a pic of one with a split in the casing.
Have you checked/changed the IAC?

 

I haven't checked or messed with the IAC valve at all. But it's a good suggestion.

Does a faulty IAC usually throw a CEL/fault code?

 

I see on Google there is an OBDII P0505 code for the IAC, but I've never seen one. I've changed them in 3 vehicles when the idle was rough and nothing else seemed wrong. Fixed the problem each time. A vacuum leak, particularly a large one from a PCV hose, will surge/stall/run crappy and make a loud hissing sound.

 

Well I did the "clear all codes from ECU" tonight as per Sam I Am recommendation to reset the misfire count (which did the trick, by the way), and my engine immediately started idling smooth again. Weird. I'll count myself lucky...for the time being.

We're headed on a 250 mile venture into the snowy mountains tomorrow to cut a Christmas tree. Will see if it keeps its smooth ways after the trip.

 

Checking coils with a meter is a waste of time, won't tell you anything useful if you're having mild misfires. More likely than not, mild misfires are caused by a breakdown of the boot's insulation or there's a weak spot in the coil's internal insulation and it's arcing internally. I usually install a plug, boot and spring first and see if that fixes it before dropping a whole COP into the cylinder.

If you just reset the PCM, you also reset the learned changes to the operating and environment so the PCM is now making its adjustments based on its learning curve. Once it's run a few drive cycles, it will probably be back to similar parameters as before the reset. It then may or may not exhibit the recent symptoms, you'll have to see.

A couple of summers ago, I was helping a friend out with his 96 'Stang with a 4.6 and some misfiring issues. I actually set up my Torque Pro app with a screen that had all 8 cylinder misfire counts on it so that all eight could be monitored while the car was driven.