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Engine rebuild ideas...

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Old Dec 4, 2016 | 05:38 AM
  #16  
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Then port away!
 
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 05:09 AM
  #17  
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The E4OD is almost finished with its rebuild/upgrade, and the 351W is 100% apart! The main & rod journals mic out well within specs for dimension, taper, out of round etc., so I'll be polishing them, and replacing the bearings... I'm thinking Clevite instead of Sealed Power... On to the block!

Scott
 
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 11:17 AM
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Good deal. I used Clevite (my local machine shop said that's what they recommend). I'm sure it's a very rare thing, but I ran into a deformed/factory defect Clevite bearing for one of the rods. The edge of a bearing half had some extra material on it, so that when the rod cap was tightened down the bearing halves had too much crush, and created a nasty tight spot on the crank journal. This would have wiped out the bearing very quickly.. Just saying to inspect closely! I'm sure you would anyway. Thanks for sharing your experience with the E4OD.
 
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Old Dec 8, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #19  
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Well, I located a local machine shop- finally- and worked out a way to pay for the work: I'm going to rebuild an engine for a friend, and that should cover the machining costs for the most part... I also found the engine serial number today: It is the original one for my truck Not that "numbers matching" F150s are really valuable, just nice to know...

Scott
 
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Old Dec 9, 2016 | 08:49 PM
  #20  
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The transmission, other than bolting on the pan (I want to add a drain plug first), is complete. Just need a torque converter. And the block, heads, crank & intake are at the machine shop.(Intake has a broken water outlet stud & needs cleaning) A few weeks, and around $800. and all will be ready for new parts & reassembly... YAY!

Does anyone have a fuel rail for a 1991 5.8l? Mine got slightly damaged when removing the engine... I think I can fix it, but would rather replace it.

Thanks!
Scott
 
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Old Dec 10, 2016 | 08:32 AM
  #21  
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I might have some rails, but a you pull jy is prob your best bet.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 04:26 PM
  #22  
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Just got word from the machine shop guy, The block will require a rebore, so we're gonna take it to 30 over (.030)(he said .020 over would possibly work, but he feels .030 would be best. I'm good with this)... The crankshaft is fine- I can use standard bearings again, so that is nice... But the driver's side head had 3 cracks in it along the outer headbolts... He has another one handy, so we worked out a price on that already, and it will be rebuilt in place of my original... Also gonna have the con rods reconditioned & he'll install the new pistons... Well, those changes add about $340 to the cost...

Scott
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 04:52 PM
  #23  
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And just to start a new war, or at least, help me decide a course- Should I go with half groove or full groove mains, and Aluminum or tri-metal? Factory (1991) was tri-metal with 1/2 groove(upper brg.)

I am trying to decide between piece by piece, or a "kit" from Rock Auto for my new internals...

A little help?

Thanks!
Scott
 
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Old Dec 20, 2016 | 05:23 AM
  #24  
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I did a bit of research, as I got no replies on the bearings, and am going to go with the Aluminum type bearings, and the factory style half-grooves... Judging from what I read through, those should be my best options...

New pistons should be in today, so I'll probably run them to the machine shop with the old ones tonight- I was gonna wait till Friday, but may as well get them there sooner rather than later!

So much fun... I want my truck back on the road!

Scott
 
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