Rear brakes need work
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
Rear brakes need work
I have not pulled the drums yet but my wheel cylinder is leaking brake fluid. When searching for parts, I noticed that Autonation Ford White Bear Lake does not have the wheel cylinders. I searched and see I can get the entire rear brake kit for both sides at BroncoGraveyard.com for $145.00. Does anyone know if the quality of these parts are any good? I don't see a brand. I appreciate all the help you guys have given me. Thanks.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
I bet they are OK, what does this kit all include? Be sure to replace the 3 rubber lines as well (2 front, one to rear); it is good maintenance to replace brake components in axle pairs. Especially since the entire system will be opened up and needs to be bled anyway. If one brake cylinder is bad, replace both on that axle. If one drum is bad, same thing. Keeps everything on the same sheet of music, and avoids "pulling" to one side. Recommend using a Shop manual for brakes, there are a lot of things to inspect or replace that people often skip or overlook that are important to getting them to work right. Brake pliars are your friend. About 8 bucks.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
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From: Rhode Island
I've never had an issue with the cheapest wheel cylinders available. I usually get whatever one is under $10. I think the last vehicle I bought wheel cylinders for, they cost about $4 a side?
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
Thanks. I agree with replacing things on each axle at the same time. I will check my tool boxes to see if I still have brake pliers. I know that makes getting the springs off and on easier. Which repair manual is better? Chilton's or ...?
I bet they are OK, what does this kit all include? Be sure to replace the 3 rubber lines as well (2 front, one to rear); it is good maintenance to replace brake components in axle pairs. Especially since the entire system will be opened up and needs to be bled anyway. If one brake cylinder is bad, replace both on that axle. If one drum is bad, same thing. Keeps everything on the same sheet of music, and avoids "pulling" to one side. Recommend using a Shop manual for brakes, there are a lot of things to inspect or replace that people often skip or overlook that are important to getting them to work right. Brake pliars are your friend. About 8 bucks.
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
Good to hear. I will remove drum and inspect before going to auto parts store.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 1,305
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for brakes, your digital camera is probably as good, if not better than, a haynes or chiltons manual ( i have always preferred haynes ). if you can afford it, get a real ford shop manual off ebay ... may seem pricey, but 1 repair pays for it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Yes, the Ford Manual. Or "a" Ford manual at least. There's more steps to doing a good brake job than a lot of people think. For example one thing often overlooked, are the backing plate pads that the shoes ride on. They get worn after a lot of miles, deep grooves and will cause the shoes to stick and not retract smartly. Or people cheap out and don't spend the 8 bucks for a spring kit, because the old ones "look" OK. Wheel cylinders are inexpensive, if new shoes are installed, the cylinder cups and piston will ride in a different spot, that is likely corroded. If they didn't leak before, they probably will in a short while. If the drums have been turned a few times they are prone to cracks and don't brake as well as they might.
Self-adjusters won't self-adjust unless and until the brakes are manuall setup pretty tight to begin with. Bleeding brakes can be a hassle, it's not bad if it only takes once so take your time, read the manual and don't take any shortcuts and it will go smooth from start to finish and best of all they will work good for a long time.
Self-adjusters won't self-adjust unless and until the brakes are manuall setup pretty tight to begin with. Bleeding brakes can be a hassle, it's not bad if it only takes once so take your time, read the manual and don't take any shortcuts and it will go smooth from start to finish and best of all they will work good for a long time.
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
Took plenty of pics. Brake shoes, cylinders and spring kits purchased. Removed the drum on the side of leak. Backer plate looks good but need to clean the pads up some. Ordered new drums from AutoNation. Looks like most parts will clean up good. Also ordered a Haynes manual. Should the cylinder pistons be OK if they are cleaned up good?
Yes, the Ford Manual. Or "a" Ford manual at least. There's more steps to doing a good brake job than a lot of people think. For example one thing often overlooked, are the backing plate pads that the shoes ride on. They get worn after a lot of miles, deep grooves and will cause the shoes to stick and not retract smartly. Or people cheap out and don't spend the 8 bucks for a spring kit, because the old ones "look" OK. Wheel cylinders are inexpensive, if new shoes are installed, the cylinder cups and piston will ride in a different spot, that is likely corroded. If they didn't leak before, they probably will in a short while. If the drums have been turned a few times they are prone to cracks and don't brake as well as they might.
Self-adjusters won't self-adjust unless and until the brakes are manuall setup pretty tight to begin with. Bleeding brakes can be a hassle, it's not bad if it only takes once so take your time, read the manual and don't take any shortcuts and it will go smooth from start to finish and best of all they will work good for a long time.
Self-adjusters won't self-adjust unless and until the brakes are manuall setup pretty tight to begin with. Bleeding brakes can be a hassle, it's not bad if it only takes once so take your time, read the manual and don't take any shortcuts and it will go smooth from start to finish and best of all they will work good for a long time.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
The correct name is " Wheel Cylinder Brake Shoe Link". The part that connects the cylinder to the brake shoe. It is not included in with the new cylinder.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 329
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From: Dallas, TX
The biggest problem I've had with cheap wheel cylinders is the bleeder valve. Sometimes they fit so sloppily that when you crack them open, air gets in through the threads and gives the appearance that you're still bleeding air. I've put new bleeders on new wheel cylinders right out of the box and gotten better results than what they originally came with.
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
That bites but thanks for the heads up. I will watch out for this problem.
The biggest problem I've had with cheap wheel cylinders is the bleeder valve. Sometimes they fit so sloppily that when you crack them open, air gets in through the threads and gives the appearance that you're still bleeding air. I've put new bleeders on new wheel cylinders right out of the box and gotten better results than what they originally came with.
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Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 501
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From: Deep East Texas
After giving the backer plate a little more cleaning, there is some slight pitting from rust. I hope this is not going to be a problem because it appears the axle has to be removed to replace the backer plate. Thoughts? Thanks.