Truck had a check engine light that came on. Plugged in scanner while i was still running it, said egr volts were weak, i just cleaned it yesterday.. and earlier today reset the check engine light once but then drove about 30 miles with no reoccurance of light. Now i pulled over, shut off truck unplugged egr and reconnected.went back to start my truck and nothing at all. Its like im trying to start it in park.....been here for abouT 3 hrs now
Ive checked fuses nothin is blown. Any info will be great as im just sitting here freezing trying to fig out anything i can on line.......its a 2006 f350 6.0 ty

 

Any click at all when you turn the key? Left side under the hood, near the hinge is a plug, squeeze and pull. It will reach the battery, touch the positive post... does the truck turn over?

If not.. dead starter.

No lights in the cab when key on, dead battery.

 

Hi i see a little plug beside the batt on passengers side....is this the one. It is on top of what i think is 2 relays and something with two vaccuum hoses. I also discovered one of these hoses is broken does that have anything tondo with anything thanks a lot.......

 

Also no lights on when key on but when i open doors they are on and also when ibturn em on....normal brightness

 

Passenger side by battery. Squeeze the plug and pull. The tip has a small probe, like a ice pick. Touch the battery positive post. If the truck cranks, that will bypass everything but the starter. If nothing happens, then you know it's the starter.

Typically, a dead battery is a click, click, click. Dead starter is nothing but cab lights when you turn the key, no click at all.

 

Sorry man, is this the 3 wire plug on fire wall besides the batt. Mine has no probe when i disconnect. I see the wires are red grey with a pink stripe and light grey with black stripe do u know which wire i can connect to pos term off hand.....also the wires are prob 14 gauge id say thanks....my plug wont reach so i will find a jumper ty

 

Here's som pictures that might help.

Look on the passenger side near the heater fan motor and locate this connector. Coming back toward the front of the truck, it has a single wire inside the plastic sheathing that will be yellow with a blue stripe.



Squeeze the round connector like this to unlock it while twisting and pulling. It should unplug fairly easily.




There is a single pin inside the front half of the connector.




Touching this pin to the positive battery post SHOULD cause the starter to spin over and crank the engine. If you still have the factory battery terminals, this little bolt sticking up seems like it was made for this purpose. If it doesn't crank, there is an issue with the batteries, starter, or the electrical connections between them, or the engine is locked up due to mechanical failure or a cylinder filled with fuel or coolant. If the key is off it will only spin over, if the key is on it should start.





This shouldn't cause any significant sparking when you touch it to the battery and it shouldn't get hot while cranking. It won't hurt the truck and it won't hurt to drive it if you started it this way just be sure to reconnect it after it fires up.

 

No jumper required, if doesn't reach then it's the wrong wire. You don't want to cause more issues by shorting something out.

Check out Rustys pics good.

.

 

Thanks so much for the posts.....i def needed a picture...hopefully i didnt kill anything not gonna say what i did tho. Going to try this out now

 

Check the wire for the EGR valve and trace it back to the harness where they join.
Look for soft squishy insulation. This might require you to remove the harness tape
to get access to the wires.

Was the EGR wiring the only thing you touched? You might also look at the
cooling fan clutch connector and that harness too.

One other thing. Do you have the original battery or have then been replaced?
If they have been replaced check to be sure that the connection is tight. And on
both types they need to be clean and good and snug to the posts.

I got dumped on a test drive. The cable ends had the replacement type on them
and they had a lot of fuzz and were loose at the point where they grip the cable.
Needless to say it was a no start.



Sean


6.0L Tech Folder

 

Thanks again guys i just test with the connector and just loud clicks from starter.....so does that mean its needing replacement, do they usually just die without warning ty

 

If the batteries have a good charge and the connections are good (don't forget to check the ones at the starter) then yup, sounds like the starter (solenoid) has died. sometimes the starter can get loose enough to quit working on these engines also.

 

Rap on the starter with a hammer, not hard enough to break anything, just hard enough to cause it to vibrate. Then replace the starter before it does it again.

 

Thanks a lot im only concerned that i didnt hear a click from started when i put key to start only when i used the wire to pos post

 

It may have a second issue keeping the key from working, a shorted 3 wire sensor can interrupt the key's function for example but you skipped all that with the jumper. if the batteries, starter and the connections are all good, it will turn over.