Redtop, Yellowtop, Interstate, Costco
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 153
Likes: 2
From: Front Range
That's the problem with warranties. I'm always in an inconvenient place to use them. I was using Walmart batteries when traveling a lot.
Regardless, I've been stuck with bad batteries that had good warranties. You get stuck in a rut, trading in a failed low quality battery for another low quality battery. Warranties only give an estimation of a battery's worth.
Even with a good warranty, they only replace the failed battery.
Both Optima and Interstate used to have good reputations. The Optimas that came with my truck are dated 6 years ago, which I consider a pretty good run. Things change.
Regardless, I've been stuck with bad batteries that had good warranties. You get stuck in a rut, trading in a failed low quality battery for another low quality battery. Warranties only give an estimation of a battery's worth.
Even with a good warranty, they only replace the failed battery.
Both Optima and Interstate used to have good reputations. The Optimas that came with my truck are dated 6 years ago, which I consider a pretty good run. Things change.
Cargo Master
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 14
From: South Carolina
I look for batteries with long warranties and high cca's from a retailer with lots of stores in the areas that I travel in.
No battery is going to last forever.
With my truck, so far, each time I have had a battery go bad, the retailer has cooperated with replacing both.
No battery is going to last forever.
With my truck, so far, each time I have had a battery go bad, the retailer has cooperated with replacing both.
Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,910
Likes: 2
From: Hat Creek Ca
The battery thing can be a real crap shoot. There are only a handfull of actual manufacturers, and they are sold under a zillion different names and a wide degree quality.
Johnson Controls used to be among the best and they build them for many different "brands" at differing quality levels as well.
There is a web site that breaks all of this down but I do not remember the name of it at this point.
Johnson Controls used to be among the best and they build them for many different "brands" at differing quality levels as well.
There is a web site that breaks all of this down but I do not remember the name of it at this point.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 2,797
Likes: 10
Go look hard at DEKA one more time from East Penn... Look at the manufacturer, chemical/compound origins, and location of manufacturing. Then go compare with every other battery manufactured down in Mexico with chinese chemical/lead/matt.
We now use them and solely DEKA over Optima, exide, etc. Not only in diesels but heavy machinery and marine/RV applications. I have both trucks fitted with the 9A65 AGMs.
We now use them and solely DEKA over Optima, exide, etc. Not only in diesels but heavy machinery and marine/RV applications. I have both trucks fitted with the 9A65 AGMs.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,465
Likes: 17
From: Jacksonville, FL
Originally Posted by nossliw
Go look hard at DEKA one more time from East Penn... Look at the manufacturer, chemical/compound origins, and location of manufacturing. Then go compare with every other battery manufactured down in Mexico with chinese chemical/lead/matt.
We now use them and solely DEKA over Optima, exide, etc. Not only in diesels but heavy machinery and marine/RV applications. I have both trucks fitted with the 9A65 AGMs.
We now use them and solely DEKA over Optima, exide, etc. Not only in diesels but heavy machinery and marine/RV applications. I have both trucks fitted with the 9A65 AGMs.
Super Moderator
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 13,315
Likes: 6,094
I'm entering into my 7th year on a pair of Enersys Odyessey Extremes, 930 CCA.
It isn't just the longevity that I like about these batteries. It is their performance while they are in use, which I find is worth their extra cost, even if they only lasted 4 years, nevermind the 7 years they've lasted thus far. They tolerate deeper discharging, and, they hold on to their state of charge for a longer period of time between charge cycles... which is very convenient for a relatively infrequent use vehicle.
But there are a few things that we expect from batteries that the Odyssey batteries fail to do: They don't leak. They don't outgas. They don't spill. They don't corrode the battery tray. They don't corrode the connections (and I've had all kinds of dissimilar metals attached to the terminals). They don't use water. They don't need water checked.
And, there is one other attribute that many other batteries have going for them that the Odyssey batteries don't. Namely, international travel. The Odyssey batteries have never crossed a border to get into the US. Neither by land, nor by sea.
It isn't just the longevity that I like about these batteries. It is their performance while they are in use, which I find is worth their extra cost, even if they only lasted 4 years, nevermind the 7 years they've lasted thus far. They tolerate deeper discharging, and, they hold on to their state of charge for a longer period of time between charge cycles... which is very convenient for a relatively infrequent use vehicle.
But there are a few things that we expect from batteries that the Odyssey batteries fail to do: They don't leak. They don't outgas. They don't spill. They don't corrode the battery tray. They don't corrode the connections (and I've had all kinds of dissimilar metals attached to the terminals). They don't use water. They don't need water checked.
And, there is one other attribute that many other batteries have going for them that the Odyssey batteries don't. Namely, international travel. The Odyssey batteries have never crossed a border to get into the US. Neither by land, nor by sea.
More Turbo
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 596
Likes: 11
I have never liked the Optima batteries in a car/truck. AGM is a fantastic technology in the appropriate application - like a boat... but the trade-offs cannot be ignored. In a boating application, amp-hours are the Holy Grail - and AGMs (like the Optima) suck here. The answer on a boat is get a bigger AGM, but the price of that bigger AGM will melt the ol' Buck$Zooka in a hurry.
AGM batteries in our truck is not the best use of that technology, and there is no up-sizing to add amp-hours (reserve power). Because we don't list several degrees to the side for extended periods (like in a sail boat) and our "hulls" don't slap on the waves (we have suspensions), we can get away with batteries that spill or don't like heavy physical shocks. With that, the flooded cell battery is still the most powerful, has the highest reserve capacity, and is the most reliable when you factor in dollars spent vs performance delivered.
I'm in no way saying AGM isn't the right technology for our trucks - I'm saying we are really let down on the what we get for what we pay factor.
If batteries are starting to go bye-bye under your hood, it may be time to look at the elevctrical system on your vehicle. I just found a corroded battery ground last winter, and I am helping two friends this very weekend with the same symptoms I had - I suspect more corroded grounds.
AGM batteries in our truck is not the best use of that technology, and there is no up-sizing to add amp-hours (reserve power). Because we don't list several degrees to the side for extended periods (like in a sail boat) and our "hulls" don't slap on the waves (we have suspensions), we can get away with batteries that spill or don't like heavy physical shocks. With that, the flooded cell battery is still the most powerful, has the highest reserve capacity, and is the most reliable when you factor in dollars spent vs performance delivered.
I'm in no way saying AGM isn't the right technology for our trucks - I'm saying we are really let down on the what we get for what we pay factor.
If batteries are starting to go bye-bye under your hood, it may be time to look at the elevctrical system on your vehicle. I just found a corroded battery ground last winter, and I am helping two friends this very weekend with the same symptoms I had - I suspect more corroded grounds.
FTE-Spread The Knowledge
Joined: Feb 2008
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 861
Likes: 7
From: AZ
I've had good luck with Costco branded Interstates, Interstates and Optimas. But I've been sticking with the Costco Interstates recently because I'm getting the same life at a lower price.
I've gotten 6 years out of each of those batteries and the shortest life was 4.5 years.
I will put nothing but the green and white Interstate Mega Tron Plus in my RV they have great reserve capacity and even with sitting through the winter (with a battery tender) I still get 4-5 years out of them.
I've gotten 6 years out of each of those batteries and the shortest life was 4.5 years.
I will put nothing but the green and white Interstate Mega Tron Plus in my RV they have great reserve capacity and even with sitting through the winter (with a battery tender) I still get 4-5 years out of them.
Hotshot
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 18,849
Likes: 179
From: Puget Sound
Here's a cut and paste:
Slow crank. Intermittent WTS and other lights flashing on dash. Truck dies.
New batteries, alternator, and starter without improvement.
With the engine running, I checked both battery voltages on the posts (not the clamps). Passenger side over 14 volts, driver side 12.0 volts. They should be identical. Clamps on the driver side - 12.0 volts... juice not leaving the passenger side to the driver side. Checked the passenger side positive cable - 12.0 volts, while the posts said over 14 volts. The alternator was sending juice to the passenger battery, but the cable to the driver battery was corroded.
I disconnected the cables, cleaned everything with a wire wheel on my drill, and reinstalled. Truck cranked fast and strong. With engine running, check the voltages on the battery posts again. 12.65 volts and climbing on both batteries. The driver battery needed to charge up, and it was taking a little time for the voltage to rise at idle.
Here's what happened: This particular truck had 3 positive cables - one went to the starter and across the two batteries, one came from the alternator, and one went to the electronics on the truck. The one cable to the electronics was a separate cable on the driver side. Without juice leaving the passenger side, the battery on the driver side was powering the electronics without charging up. Once the voltage on the driver side dropped too low, blinking lights and stall.
Slow crank. Intermittent WTS and other lights flashing on dash. Truck dies.
New batteries, alternator, and starter without improvement.
With the engine running, I checked both battery voltages on the posts (not the clamps). Passenger side over 14 volts, driver side 12.0 volts. They should be identical. Clamps on the driver side - 12.0 volts... juice not leaving the passenger side to the driver side. Checked the passenger side positive cable - 12.0 volts, while the posts said over 14 volts. The alternator was sending juice to the passenger battery, but the cable to the driver battery was corroded.
I disconnected the cables, cleaned everything with a wire wheel on my drill, and reinstalled. Truck cranked fast and strong. With engine running, check the voltages on the battery posts again. 12.65 volts and climbing on both batteries. The driver battery needed to charge up, and it was taking a little time for the voltage to rise at idle.
Here's what happened: This particular truck had 3 positive cables - one went to the starter and across the two batteries, one came from the alternator, and one went to the electronics on the truck. The one cable to the electronics was a separate cable on the driver side. Without juice leaving the passenger side, the battery on the driver side was powering the electronics without charging up. Once the voltage on the driver side dropped too low, blinking lights and stall.
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Shake-N-Bake
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Jun 2, 2012 07:07 AM
just another truck
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel
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Jan 6, 2009 09:07 AM