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Winter bed weight

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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 07:24 AM
  #16  
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I just loaded 560 lbs of sand in the back of our Transit for this purpose. I think I used about 900 lbs for my last Super Duty though.

Be careful about what you use and how it's loaded, as it can become a projectile in an accident. Chuck's weight could come through the cab and decapitate everyone in a frontal collision because it's loaded so far back. I prefer weight to be loaded low and against the front wall of the bed to minimize the chance that it goes through the window.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 08:05 AM
  #17  
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I buy 10 bags of sand at home depot Quikrete 60 lb. Sand/Topping Mix-110360 - The Home Depot. Like Tom and Don say secure it really good! I put mine as close to the front of the bed and add some ratcheting straps to keep them from moving.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 09:04 AM
  #18  
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Proper winter tires make a world of difference as well, however I'm sure you are aware of this and this is more for the benefit of others who may read the thread down the road. Fat mud tires are not the plan if you want effective winter traction, however I agree that adding weight in the bed definitely will improve 2wd traction.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 09:59 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Tom
I just loaded 560 lbs of sand in the back of our Transit for this purpose. I think I used about 900 lbs for my last Super Duty though.

Be careful about what you use and how it's loaded, as it can become a projectile in an accident. Chuck's weight could come through the cab and decapitate everyone in a frontal collision because it's loaded so far back. I prefer weight to be loaded low and against the front wall of the bed to minimize the chance that it goes through the window.

I did fail to say that... mine are bolted together.. and blocked with 6x4 lumber... after the rear wheel wells.
see what happens when you get old. and the setup is also years old..
current arrangement is from 2004. from past truck.

I can assure you . mine will not move.

Load and travel Safe.


Sorry if I offered Bad Advice.
.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 11:10 AM
  #20  
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I run with 80 gallons of diesel in the transfer tank most of the winter (added Antigel and Diesel Kleen for fuel stability) and that gives me about 600 lbs between the front of the bed and the axle and I do good on most any slick surface.

As you can see there are as many opinions as drivers. I've done it for years and am happy so do what makes you happy and if it doesn't work try something else.

 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 01:31 PM
  #21  
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My dad lives up in Alaska (don't need anything like that here in the desert) and he was telling me about the water bladders you can buy to put into your truck bed. They are designed to withstand freezing of the water and then you can just drain them in the spring. They are nice and flat too, so you can still carry some cargo with them in the bed as long as you are careful not to puncture it. Though I'm sure you wouldn't notice until it warmed up.


Where he lives some guys will also throw their household garbage in the back of their trucks and leave it all winter, they claim to add weight to the back, but I think it's just out of laziness as they don't have garbage service. Though to be fair, some of these guys have older trucks they only use for garbage, firewood, or plowing. It works fine as long as it stays frozen, but when they break down and need worked on in my dad's heated shop they'll stink the whole place up and leak garbage juice all over the shop floor. It's a great way to get an angry phone call and increase your billable hours.
 
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 01:46 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by nmclella
Proper winter tires make a world of difference as well, however I'm sure you are aware of this and this is more for the benefit of others who may read the thread down the road. Fat mud tires are not the plan if you want effective winter traction, however I agree that adding weight in the bed definitely will improve 2wd traction.
Yea my mud tires definitely arent the best for the winter, but theyre a good year round tire so I can manage with them. Theyre awesome in deep snow, and slush...just when it first starts snowing here they can get a little squirrely, hence the desire for some weight
 
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 07:23 AM
  #23  
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I would say 500lbs would be the least amount I would use. It will definitely help but 1000 pounds you won't need 4 x4 hardly ever.
These trucks barely notice 500 lbs.
I used to use tube sand but now I run a sander in the winter.
1 yard of sand is a totally different truck in the snow.
2yds and it's a beast. Took some getting used to plowing in 2wd lol
I also run duratracs which are great in the snow
 
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 10:10 PM
  #24  
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I don't run any weight in the back even with the snowplow hung on the front. My supercab long box can get a little light but I hate having a bunch of frozen junk in the back to try to get out when I need the bed space to haul something. Even worse, having to worry about some heavy weight sliding around as I plow or flying up to hit me in the event of a crash. I run manual hubs and leave them locked whenever the weather dictates. Over the winter I really only unlock them during long stretches of dry weather or if I travel longer distances and don't expect to need it. Gentle use of the throttle and popping in and out of 4x when needed works just fine and don't hurt a thing.

I've had a 4x4 for over 30 years, sometimes 2-3 at a time. It always seemed to me the less 4x4 gets used the more problems you'll have with it. My old full time trucks hardly ever wore out axle joints or U-joints, the constant spinning kept the water chased out and the grease dispersed. Trucks with lockouts that rarely get used seemed to always have a joint that was dry or loose. My super duty has the actuator motor on the transfer case, and I like to know everything is working fine, before I have to rely on it to get out of a jam. Using it regularly lets me know all is good and it keeps things freed up. I've worked on several of those actuators that give trouble and it's often due to moisture, rust or electrical. Common theme always seems to be, "why would that be bad, I hardly ever use it"
 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:10 AM
  #25  
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Last year was my first attempt to plow with a bone stock F250. We got 30+ inches at one pop. Did not go well

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8A6GSxzQxY&feature=youtu.be

Other than learning from my obvious mistakes, this year I’m trying Weight-Mate Traction Weights by Granger Plastics – about 600lbs when filled with water. They are nice and light loading and I fill / empty while loaded. Not shown but they are also tied down on all 4 corners. Also looked at the bladder types but these seem much more durable and still allows me to use the bed.



Also upgraded to BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO2 275/70R18E because they seem the favorite of local plowers.


 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:18 AM
  #26  
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Lastly, I got the rear winch set up which I use for many reasons including getting me unstuck.


 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:35 AM
  #27  
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Use to live close to a Target and every snow, the guy running the loader would be in their parking lot early so I would pull in and he would fill me with snow mounded to the top of the cab, great cheap weight!
 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:44 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by acf6
Its annoying if there is 1" of snow.
If your big old truck needs 4WD in one inch of snow, then you're doing something wrong.

As for 4x4, just run with the hubs locked and switch to 4x4 when needed from in the cab. We run all our trucks up here that way, and it works like a charm.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:48 AM
  #29  
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Snow for added weight is great. You usually never have to unload it either! The sun does it for you!
 
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Old Nov 27, 2016 | 10:48 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by AKHunter93
If your big old truck needs 4WD in one inch of snow, then you're doing something wrong.

As for 4x4, just run with the hubs locked and switch to 4x4 when needed from in the cab. We run all our trucks up here that way, and it works like a charm.
Doing something wrong? Nope. That's just the way the trucks are, they are light on the rear axle.
 
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