Hello My name is Will I own a 1990 Aerostar it started about two weeks ago when my check engine light came on at first i ignored it then one day on the way to work i stopped at a light gave it gas and it died what the heck i said i started it back up and went on. got home I thought it was the TPS = Throttle position sensor so i replaced it still same problem so i replace the CPS = Crank position sensor problem still happening so then i replaced the IACV = Idle Air Control Valve still same problem then i replaced the fuel filter same problem so i replaced FPR = Fuel pressure regulator still the problem kept happening so then i took the ICM Ignition control module off and had it tested it failed so i replaced it $400 dollars later my problem is still happening what is going on help please. I even unhooked my battery to reset the brain. How many miles do i got to drive before everything resets HEEEELP!!.

 

I would first run the EEC self test to see what problems it's finding look here for directions

Ford Check Engine light Codes - FreeAutoMechanic

Since youve replaced everything else I would suspect either a vacuum leak or a bad hego sensor finding the vacuum leak is free but may require some persistence and the hego sensor should be cheap around $30 and pretty easy to replace

 

Are you still throwing a code or CEL?

I saw you replaced the FPR, but are you sure you're getting pressure at the rail, or that the pump is operating at 100%? My pump is weak (I have to let it pressurize before starting the van) and it does affect my idle.

 

Yes i am still throwing a CEL light fuel pressure is at 80 PSI at the rail.

 

Are you sure about that pressure 80 PSI is way too high it should be no more than 40 PSI at idle with the vacuum hose removed maybe you have a restriction in the fuel return line

 

the van is 27 years old not sure if the pump has ever been replaced or not but when it was tested at a friends house unless his fuel pressure tester is bad it was reading 80 PSi

 

Ok so i don't own a fuel pressure test gauge how do i test the fuel pressure without crawling under the van. I'm in washing ton it is raining here now and i don't have a garage.

 

You will not be able to effectively measure fuel pressure under the van you probably know by now that the fuel pressure test port is on the fuel rail front right corner above the lower intake manifold it has a schrader valve that you thread the gauge onto but you may have to remove the valve core first if the gauge fitting does not have a center pin to push against the valve core failing to find the proper gauge you can use a pressure gauge for testing AC systems they use similar fittings and usually come with adapters for different sizes and some even have the push pin to open the schrader valve

 

Which engine 3 or 4L?

You are not the only one living in God's Rain Country.

Big tarp Harbor Freight are good, bright drop lights and hood up.

Rain Tree Mechanic. Can't tell you how many rigs I've worked on out in the woods on logging roads in mud and rain coming down like a cow pissing on a flat rock rolled up in a tarp on the mud with a tarp over the rig.

Fuel pump psi gauges available for rent or free use at many auto parts stores.

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...pump-tests-2#1

http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...he-fuel-pump-2

 

ok so how much pressure would there be if it was KOEO and i bought a fuel pressure tester but it wont be her until Monday and i bought a new fuel pump
but my issue now is the van is Surging and it is the 4.0 Liter V-6. when we tested it the first time the guy had me just turn the key on and that was it.

B y the way People thanks for all the Help.

 

Oops that was Key on Engine off.

 

The fuel pump runs for 2 seconds when you key-on to try to pressurize the rail. If you cycle the key a couple times, it SHOULD bring the rail pressure to the full 40 psi, and it should hold for a long time.

 

Hello its me again so I'm getting a code 14 engine rpm signal fault or pip circuit failure. but i have replaced the CPS so what is PIP circuit.

 

Ok so i have the 4.o liter and no distributor it has a coil pack so it is the RPM signal fault.

 

Sometimes you have to get the vehicle to FORD for diagnosis(IF you have a competent dealer repair shop). They can diagnose the problem usually and it'should only cost 75 to 85 bucks for diagnosing it.
Have you totally ruled out a vacuum leak? don-ohio (:^)