I just replaced my cracked oil cooler housing (oil filter end) with a replacement one. I started it up and noticed the gauge reads 0 at idle, but immediately goes to normal past 1200 rpm..

Is my motor ****ed? The replacement oil cooler I put on wasnt in the best shape.. and I wonder if it has something to do with it? I cleaned it out really good..

Is my motor going down right now? Im freaking out a little bit.. Whats going on here? HELP! IS this thing safe to drive?

 

what gauge did you use?


get a real one and put it on


maybe the pressure regulator had some gunk in it and don't work well until there is some flow

 

I will also add this issue was present when it is cold and warm; The engine runs absolutely fine apart from this..

 

Is the check valves in the cooler head installed and installed correctly?

 

I honestly dont know, i thought i cleaned it out good, the condition i got it ion was real bad, it was super dirty.. Ill try and get an oil gauge
I dont believe I saw anything missing..

 

f350: after replacing the oil cooler, i now have no oil pr

 

Thanks for the link, I remember seeing something circlippped in the cooler housing I put in.. ..
What is this thing? am I supposed to have somethign stick out like that?!?!

 

That's the old style header (94.5-95) that part is supposed to be staked in flush. The new style has a clip that holds it.

 

diezelcrazeesidipage-oilregulatingvalve

 

Ok, The guy i bought it from says its from a 97 model, so I Dont think it has the design listed in that link above. Although I dont even know anymore.

the truck runs amazing, there is zero signs of weirdness going on apart from my dummy gauge reading zero at <1200 rpm. I would say it runs better than it ever has before.. so it strikes me as odd this is just happening.

The oil color looks fine, no signs of shavings or a 'sheen' on the oil.

I have to leave town and i dont want to risk taking the truck
I'm fairly certain its the oil cooler or the oil gauge.. but until I replace it i dont know 100%

 

Ok, this is deserving of an update. After sifting through the links that fordpride posted, I realized this issue is straightforward. The HPOP reservoir isnt seeing enough pressure to switch on the oil pressure dummy gauge (~7-10 psi needed). If the truck actually had zero oil pressure, the HPOP reservoir would drain, and the truck would not start.

I took apart the replacement cooler I put on, and here's what I found:



My old broken cooler on right; cooler I took off truck on left. Can you see the difference in position of the valve? Next pic shows why:





There was no spring in the pressure valve assembly. THE SPRING WAS MISSING.

I was quite relieved and also equally pissed to stumble upon that. I took my backup pressure valve assembly, and re-installed it.



While disassembled, I also shimmed the oil filter bypass too, to ensure that it takes just a little bit more pressure to bypass the filter. I put a washer at the bottom of the opening shown above

Voila! Correct Oil pressure at idle again!


Thanks for the guidance as always!

 

thanks for posting this and the pics too