Alright,

So my '83 250 has a 351w in it, but it is not the original engine, nor is it an '83. Haven't had a chance to figure out what year it is, but it's definitely from the same era.

Anyway, my carb has a solid green wire coming out of the choke (or at least the plastic cover) and it has never been hooked up, since I bought the truck. Currently, I have it tied around a heater hose to keep it from grounding.

Basically, I've done some searching and found some posts that say this wire should be connected to the Stator output on the alternator, can anyone confirm this?

 

Yep.....should be around 7v off the Stator.

 

Awesome, thanks! See if I can't get that thing wired up before it gets dark.

 

Welcome...good luck

 

How does one determine the 'stator' wire? LOL. You guys and your tech speak. I have an '86 and replaced the motor, but was never sure if the electric choke even worked. So I tested it and it does, however, somehow my wire fried when I went to start it, and then where I thought it was connected, well, now, I have a bunch of questions...so I have an alternator with a 2 wire on one connector and a 3 wire on the other. On the 2 wire side, both go into a fused connection and one of those wires coming out is simply cut, but it's hot all the time, no idea why, and I don't know where it should go. What do I connect to the choke?


I have a wire in another connector near the battery that goes forward to the cab that's also been cut.
Where the choke was connected prior is to a gray wire that came from the junction box on the driver side, passed under the rad...but there's no power there with the key on.
The gauge I have is simply hooked up to the fuse box, but it does read good, it just goes way down when I crank.

 

Eriklane, you been on here for 6 years from what I can see and you broke the first rule of forum proto call!
What year/model/motor we trying to help you with? sorry I see it is an 86 but what with what motor??


Then what colors are the wires you talk of and if you can get pictures of them would help a lot.
Also know some wiring was not used because of options on the truck but they should have ends on the wire not just cut off.
The wire under the radiator I think was added as I don't think any wires ran under it. If you follow it back where does it go?


I think there is a wiring diagram here ???Gary's Garagemahal - Home
along with a lot more information that may help. Might be something on the choke wiring also?
Look that over and hope someone that knows more on the trucks than I can help.
Dave ----

 

Here is where the "electric assist" choke wire connects. But you still need to have the thermostatic (hot air) choke connected for the choke system to work properly. The electric assist doesn't do anything below about 60 degrees.

 

Sorry! Mine is a 1986 F250 4wd with a 351W. Has electric choke with the 2 connectors, not one. As stated, my alternator has a 2 wire clip and a 3 wire also. Pic above of one wire doesn't help me.

The wires that go under the rad simply go to a junction box on the driver firewall and stop. Wiring diagrams always seem to vary, lots of times its with injectors...will recheck my Hayes Manual...

 

I just went back over your post and it sounds like someone re-wired the truck because of issues?
The carb/choke is it a Holley or stock Motocraft? Think the 2 wire sounds like a Holley and why I ask. If Holley it would then take a full 12 volts not the 7 from the ALT.


Again if you can post up pictures that would help us help you.
Dave ----

 

It would if you still had the STOCK carburetor.

How is anyone in here supposed to know what aftermarket parts you have on your truck?

 

If your ALT is a G2 ALT as shown in the photo below the STA is the stator output.
There will be 2 large power output wires and 1 small white wire.The small wire will go to your choke cap.
I have never seen a choke cap with 2 connections on it, can you post photos?


Jim
.

 

Ok it's a holley 80457 and has an elec choke with a + and - connector, not so hard, ok? And yes, my alt has 2 connectors, I guess it's a G2 then, one has 2 wires, the other has 4. I can't find keyed 12v anywhere under the hood.

The 2 wire side Alt has a big yellow wire that goes into a fused coupler along with a heavy black/o stripe from the 3 wire side that goes to the solenoid. The big Y is cut on the output of the plug and is hot all the time. No idea why it's that way, PO I guess.
The other wire is a small green that goes through a big connector that also has the 3 wires from the ALT going through it.

The 4 wire side has a black/O stripe mentioned prior. It has a heavy and small Y going thru the big connector mentioned prior that goes into the firewall. There is a wire cut on both ends of the connector, PO stuff. There's a small Brown going into a cluster of 3 others that go under the rad to that junction box on the driver side. Theres a gray one that's been cut PO.




And finally there's a red stub from the firewall cluster mentioned earlier that's also been cut PO and I believe that's hot.

 

I have a 0-80457s carb too.
You could swap the stock Motorcraft single bullet choke cap onto any Holley.

Given that you have a 12V Holley -258 choke cap you have a couple of choices.

A) Wire it to a 'Hot in run' circuit that won't mind the extra load.
​​​​​​​B) Wire a relay to the stator circuit so it gets 12V only when the alternator is turning.

The red wire you show should be hot at all times (the nub in the splice) because yellow is 'sense' and black/orange is 'charge' connected to the hot lug of the relay.

 

I mean, the 'worst' case scenario is that I wire up a cabin switch to turn on the 12v to choke, and shut er down after 5 mins...not a bad way of doing it.

 

There shouldn't ever be a reason to shut off the choke heater. (except when you shut the truck off)
Every other system applies power whenever the engine is running