I have read many threads here regarding max tire sizes for a given lift. I intend to lift my 94 and install 33s this winter. I intend to patiently research it to death because this truck has to pull my boat and get me to work sometimes to justify it's existence. (Already got a 53 F100 toy) I can't screw the Bronco up as a useful vehicle.

Anyway, it seems to be the consensus everywhere that you must lift four inches to clear 33 inch tires. I mocked up the truck with the jack at mid-frame today. I am measuring with my current 31 inch tires on stock rims. It appears that the first thing larger tires will hit is the radius arm and the sway bar. It seems to me that this will not change no matter how high you lift the truck. Fender and bumper clearance seem to be sufficient. A rim with less backspacing should help. But I still don't see how you guys are putting 35 inch and larger tires on without sever rubbing. Do the aftermarket kits have radius arms that bend in to allow for more clearance? Just a matter of proper rim selection or have I missed something simple?

 

This may be a bit different but I own a 78 Bronco with a 4 inch lift. I currently run 35 inch tires on it with no problems, no rubbing at all anywhere. I ran 37s on it for a bit, the only rubbing I had was when the suspension was flexing. I dont know about the 94 Bronco, but I had a buddy of mine who owned a 96 and he was running 35s with a 4 inch lift and they didnt rub.

 

I'm planning for 4" lift on mine with 33-12.50's on 10" rims with 4 1/2 backspace. except i'm thinking of going with 16" rims insted of 15's , maybe im thinking wrong here but if i have a 1inch bigger rim on the same dia. tire then it would give me 1 inch less side wall there fore reduceing side wall flex, less rolling resistance, and improved handleing. right? what you guys think? DW

 

DW
I am not so sure about those 16 inch rims. I have known and heard pleanty of fellas that had them and they hated them and went back to 15. I dont remember all the reasons why, I just remember they didnt like them.

 

why? i've even looked at 17's if i can find the right size tire, I would like to know why they didn't like them, did they cause a problem of some kind? if you find out let me know. Thnx DW

 

I've seen guys that had 33x12.50R15's on factory rims on a 92-96 Bronco WITHOUT any lift and no rubbing. If you go to a wider rim, it's then that you'll have fender/bumper contact. I for one still recommend a 4" suspension lift for 33's, especially if you're going to off-road the Bronco and max the suspension, so you don't ruin the little chrome fender trim or cut a tire. If you get the tubular extended radius arms, they are "bent" inward to give a tad bit more sidewall clearance. I haven't heard anything about 16" rims, but you can't really air down a 16.5" tire for rock crawling or sand due to the bead design.

 

DW
I will look into why the guys didnt like the 16 inch rims as well. Part of it had t do with whan JustShootMe said... they couldnt air down the 16s the way the could the 15s for crawling or on the sand. But I will look more into it and ask the guys what problems they had..if any, or just the reasons as to why they didnt like them.

 

"I've seen guys that had 33x12.50R15's on factory rims on a 92-96 Bronco WITHOUT any lift and no rubbing."

Shoot me 84

I guess that's why I am asking why a four inch lift is required to eliminate rubbing. It just doesn't look to me like you achieve that unless the kits radius arms route slightly different. I am one inch off the radius arm and the sway bar at the the corner of the tires with 31s right now. 33 is almost guaranteed to hit on my truck without a bit less rim back spacing.

More opinions??? And let me clarify that I am not bashing lift kits and big tires at all. To the contrary, I really think they make a Bronco look cool. I know the extra ground clearance is vital for serious offroading (which I'm not doing very often at all) I just want to properly apply the $2,000 here. I don't want a vanilla Bronco. But I have made lots of errors with modifications in the past 25 years. Just want to get this one right the first time. I know there is a wealth of experience here and I don't need to re-learn every lesson you guys already have.

I am currently contemplating a 2 inch leveling kit, or a quality 4 inch lift kit. Perhaps a 2 inch body lift, or some combination of the above. I definitely want the ability to run 33 inch tires. I think I can still get adequate power from my 351W. I can't destroy my fuel mileage, and it has to remain safe when pulling my boat at 65 MPH. Which it does an awesome job of right now. Best towing vehicle I have ever personally owned, and the fuel mileage was better than expected too. I can live with 12 MPG in tow. Getting almost 14 right now.

Thanks

 

I am running 31x10.50's on stock rims and i have some rubbing at full lock on the the sway bar. but I am still going to go with 32x11.50's when it is time for some new tires.

 

On my stock 88 I have 33x12.50x15, with the stock rims. They do rub radius arm at full lock, but backing out of parking spot and cranking the wheel doesn't bother me. You may have to adjust the bumber forward a bit, but there should be enough adjustment in the bolts. My fenders are stock and the tires do not hit. I have 5 inch top tire to fender lip now and 7 in the back.
I am adding 2 inch lift front coils which will give me a little more travel and it will make it level. Most good tire stores will put on a tire to check clearance, if you plan on buying a set. It really is just the front anyways, there is plenty of room in the back.

 

FATFENDERS: okay i have the pics you wanted in my gallery now! theres pics under (MY STUFF) and (TECH STUFF) the exhaust pics are in thech stuff! hope this helps. DW

 

There is some minor difference in fender and bumper clearance in the various year models from 78-96. I had 32x11.50R15's on 15x8 rims on my 84 Bronco without any rubbing, even with running boards. With a 3" body lift, you can fit 36x12.50R15 tires on a pre-87 Bronco without rubbing. If all you want is enough clearance to fit the 33's so they don't contact the front bumper or fenders, then a 3" body lift is adequate. Remember that a suspension lift does not increase ground clearance, either. It's the taller tires that do that. To avoid contact with the stock radius arms, use a wheel with a minimum of backspacing, say 3-1/2". You'll still have slight rub at full steering lock, but you're normally going slow enough when you do that so it doesn't hurt anything. As far as the 2" leveling coils go, I've heard of alot of problems with the front end alignment with those. I would either go with the body lift, or a 4" suspension lift. I went with a 6" for my '84 so that I have plenty of room for 35's on a 15x8 rim. I do.

 

when the rubbing occurs is it due to the diameter of the tire or the width of the Tire?

The reason I ask is a buddy of mine is getting ready to upgrade his tires and lift and is going to give me, yes i said GIVE, his barely worn 33x10(or 10.50 [not quite sure])x15s and I was wondering if I will still need to space my bumper forward or not.

thanks

 

Shootme84

Thankyou, that was a very helpful post. I hadn't considered the alignment issues with loadlever springs. It makes perfect sense. The axle has no choice but twist out of alignment with stock radius arms. I'll eliminate that option.

I agree with your backspace advice. Pro-Comp Extreme Alloy wheels really caught my eye. The 15x10s have a 3.625 backspace. That is pushing it but I believe I have a chance that they will work out. The 8 inch rims have 3.25 backspace but I think 12.50 wide tire is too much for an 8 in rim. Although I know it is done all the time.

I realize you need taller tires to get good ground clearance. I am going to have to hold it to 33 though. I think my gearing becomes insufficient for good towing power if I go any taller.

You are correct about radius arm rub being at low speed and not a big deal. That said, it should do it after I spend a bunch of cash on mods. I think I can avoid it if I make good parts selection.

I am looking at the Rancho 3 or 4 inch lift kit. Most of the cheap kits under $500 are easy to eliminate. They look like a recipe to mess up my truck. Any brands you particularly like? I have heard the Dick Cepek kit is very good too. I definitely want a kit with radius arms.

 

Picture in your mind what you're doing by putting a taller, wider tire on the factory rim or a 15x7"or8" rim. The sidewalls will look like they bulge out a bit more with 12.50's vs. a 10.50, but the contact with the bumper and radius arms will be at the edge of the tire, due to the larger diameter. When you increase the rim size to a 15x10", the sidewall is not bulged out as much. You just need to move the whole wheel out away from the hub to maintain enough clearance by keeping the backspacing around 3-1/2"-4". A 33x12.50 tire will fit on a rim less than 10" wide. It really depends on your driving needs, whether you drive in mud, sand, gravel, snow. You may want a wider footprint for sand or snow. I like a narrow tire-track for mud, so I chose an 8" rim.