My 2000 7.3 F250 4x4 didn't come with a pyrometer on the turbo. How much trouble is it to get an after market one and install it on this. I'd prefer knowing when it is safe to shut down after towing or running the highways.

 

Pyro's are easy to install. Its just a matter of drilling a hole, and either welding in a bung for the probe, or using the clamp on type. They can be put in the manifold or the downpipe. I prefer the downpipe because when the probe gets heated up and cooled over and over, small flakes or chips will probably come off of it. If the probe is in the manifold, the chips will get into your turbo and possibly damage it. It is generally good to let the egt's cool to around 300 degrees before shut down.

 

You can see a clamp-on version in my pics. I installed pre turbo.

 

powrstroke , I really like the look of the Westach dual readout that you have installed. How much effort was involved in cutting a whole in the plastic dash and running the wires?? Did westach send a "goby' so you could cut a whole the correct size for the gauge????...thanks , sk

 

Install the pyro probe pre turbo. It is stainless steel and will not degrade. The pyro readings between pre and post turbo can be as much as several hundread degrees off while under heavy load. The industry standard hole size for the gauges are 2 1/16".

 

I don't want to fire up the thermocouple location debate again but I am currently trying to get mine mounted and I want it pre-turbo. I don't trust myself to do it on my own so I called a local diesel mechanic and asked him if he could do it. "No problem, but I wouldn't place it pre-turbo. I will if you want me to but I don't recommend it." This guy claims that any moisture that escapes the cylinders and hits the thermocouple will destroy the thermocouple, thus trashing your turbo. Again, I don't want to stir everyone up, just want thoughts about this guys reasoning about moisture in the exhaust and damaging the probe. It actually sounds logical to me but I don't pretend to be a mechanic. The thought of having to replace a turbo does not sound good.

 

^^^he's right^^^

 

Hi Thumper, I do not take offense to your comment. Lets discuss this theory. I am a heavy deisel mechanic with about 20 years experience. Ironically in the "world" of heavy diesel there are no questions or discussions on where you mount a pyro probe. Its a given, its going to be mounted pre turbo. Almost every diesel that I have seen that comes from the factory with a pyro, mount them pre turbo. Cat, Mack, Cummins, IH, Deutz, L-P, Detroit, Mercedes recomend pre turbo when mounting a aftermarket pyro. I have not seen a turbo ruined from a broken off pyro probe yet. Now that being said, I am not saying that "stuff" has not gone through the turbine and messed it up. But it didn't ruin the whole turbo. And the "stuff" took the pyro probe and bent it 90*. Moisture.....water boils at 212* at sea level, lower temps the higher the elevation. Above 212 water is only in a vapor state. The only time your exhaust gas and manifold temps are less than 250* is immediately after startup. After the engine warms up the temps are usually 300*+. Combustion chamber temps are about 1700*. I don't think there is much chance for droplets of moisture to live. Like I said lets discuss this. I am not trying to flame anybody or come off as a know it all. I am proven wrong everyday, just ask my wife.

 

I agree with you. I called another diesel outfit in town and he stated that pre turbo is the only way to go. This guy claims post turbo is a waste of time and money. I agree with this statement (just my opinion), that is why I want it pre turbo but I justed wanted to be sure before I install the probe. I thought my turbo was toast earlier this year (thank goodness it wasn't) and the cost to have it replaced almost made me pass out. Can you tell me if there is an expected life span for the pyro probe?

For conversation sake, if there is moisture in the cylinder and it gets vaporized (which it will, I would think), how far out the exhaust manifold does it travel as vapor before it returns to liquid? ie. the water that you see dripping out of the exhaust pipe of gas motors. Does this occur with diesel motors? Thanks for your input on this. I know it has been beat to death here.

 

The vapor will condense back to liquid when it cools to under 212*. So how ever far down the "pipe" that is???? After the cat I am shure.
Lifespan on probe, I really don't know.

 

The install took about 2 hours taking my time. I used a 3" hole saw to cut the hole. I had to buy the hole saw. It basically took as long to remove and install the dash as it did to run the wiring and boost gauge plumbing.