Alternator question
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 296
Likes: 2
Alternator question
Looks like I need an alternator and no time to mail order one. I am leaving town this weekend and need it fixed by Friday. Torque shows a constant low voltage generally around 12 volts at idle and 125 or 12.8 at 65mph. Torque is set to warn me at 12.2 volts and is going off a lot. If I have to buy one locally who would you go to? Dealer or one of the other local auto parts places? Thanks for your help! I will replace the belt as well.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,595
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Have you had it tested to verify?
Only reason I bring it up is my SGii shows between 12.7 and 13.7 routinely. Yet a separate test performed via the batteries and a multimeter showed 13.99-14.1 while the SGii was simultaneously reporting over a volt lower.
Only reason I bring it up is my SGii shows between 12.7 and 13.7 routinely. Yet a separate test performed via the batteries and a multimeter showed 13.99-14.1 while the SGii was simultaneously reporting over a volt lower.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,331
Likes: 341
From: Breckenridge, TX
Advance Auto. Order online with the TRT30 discount code and "ship" to a local store and you should be able to pick it up that day. Or just walk in and buy one, missing a 30% discount on an alternator is cheaper than the alternative.
140A unit, dont get the 110A one.
I haven't seen a 6.0 with good connections more than .5V off from the case to PCM, but either way it doesn't matter because the FICM is run off the same single wire as the body electric, if that connection or anything before it is causing a drop you need to fix it now before you nuke the FICM. If the connections are clean, it's time for an alternator.
140A unit, dont get the 110A one.
I haven't seen a 6.0 with good connections more than .5V off from the case to PCM, but either way it doesn't matter because the FICM is run off the same single wire as the body electric, if that connection or anything before it is causing a drop you need to fix it now before you nuke the FICM. If the connections are clean, it's time for an alternator.
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,331
Likes: 341
From: Breckenridge, TX
The new CarQuest alternator isn't the best available, but it's local and fits your time frame. Signing up for SpeedPerks takes 5 minutes and is free IIRC. If for some reason that really doesn't work for you, pick any store brand. It shouldn't be hard to choose between sinking $150 into what might be a temporary alternator on short notice instead of running an $800 computer module on voltage low enough to cause serious damage.
Unless you want to call Ed and see if he can priority-overnight a LN or DC power alt, you're going to get stuck with a 110A or 140A unit that isn't the best. Priority shipping is probably significantly more than the AA alternator.
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
Unless you want to call Ed and see if he can priority-overnight a LN or DC power alt, you're going to get stuck with a 110A or 140A unit that isn't the best. Priority shipping is probably significantly more than the AA alternator.
FICMRepair.com - FORD Powerstroke 6.0 FICM Repair, PHP Tuning and Truck Parts
Thread Starter
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
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Yep about $150 to next day air one in. I cleaned the battery terminals and grounds and now get 13.8 volts. FICM always shows 48 or 47.5. ORielly is the cheapest so far at $132 and $10 core. I don't have to join anything for theirs. Thanks for the help!
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,331
Likes: 341
From: Breckenridge, TX
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2010
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SO many people on this board have had issues with the parts house alternators. They just don't seem to last - likely as a result of so much being asked of them.
Good luck!
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Tuned
Joined: Feb 2016
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After all the checking around I think I have decided on the 185 amp unit from FICMrepair. As soon as I check the alternator connection needed I will order tonight. I am adding projector headlights from Toms group buy thread and an android headunit. 2 year guarantee from a known reputable place helps too! I cleaned the battery terminals and grounds and have power. I watched the install videos and it should be a piece of cake according to them and the little metal latch that hold the tensioner while removing. Thanks again for all of the help!
Token Redneck
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 9,331
Likes: 341
From: Breckenridge, TX
Something else to consider is a ground wire upgrade. Good video on adding a single cable here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tery-life.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...tery-life.html
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