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I installed a "Plug N Play" amp kit for my factory speakers. It comes with a wiring harness that literally plugs between the unit and speakers. It also comes with RCA connections and a separate bass **** for the RCA connections. I installed two 12" subs behind my rear seat and an amp under that seat. Works for me.
Did you find a box that fits and allows the seats to lock back?
I installed a "Plug N Play" amp kit for my factory speakers. It comes with a wiring harness that literally plugs between the unit and speakers. It also comes with RCA connections and a separate bass **** for the RCA connections. I installed two 12" subs behind my rear seat and an amp under that seat. Works for me.
Id like to know what you used. Im itching for more bass, but dont want to have to spend $3,000+ and have no underseat storage.
I'm about to remove the single rear seat (passenger side) and build a box right there! HA!
I don't want to use a shallow mount sub, and can't find anything that will house a full-size sub that will fit under or behind the seats (well...not the sub I want to use. 5-7/8" mounting depth)
I have a Fox acoustics under seat box with 2) JL 10" subs, it does fit and sounds great but leaves you with no under seat room at all, for me it was a worthwhile trade off.
Here's a picture of the box behind my rear seat. I have shallow mount subs (5 1/4" I think). It's a pretty tight fit but the seat backs do click back into place easily. My amp is in the storage tray under the rear seat. My truck is a 2019 XLT CCSB.
NICE. Prefab or custom? Sealed? Be ideal if there was a kit to move the seats inboard for additional room.
I'm with ATC, remove the pass. side and run a 2.5-3 cube vented, downfiring enclosure with a single 12" or 3.5+ cube vented 15". I am a hardcore DD Audio fan. Used to like RE as well, but way out of touch with car audio to know current offerings so even more inclined to stick with DD. I am resisting the urge to return to bassheaddom. Especially after having just sold my vintage Cadence monoblocks. I also listen to 90% rockabilly. Have 2 powered, vented 15's for the house. I have a small database of custom enclosures and LOVED designing custom boxes down to 1 thousandth of a cube considering displacements and port correction, observing ideal rules, etc. Even some adjustable tuning.
Looking to upgrade the speakers in my 17 with the Sony system. Don’t plan on adding an aftermarket amp yet. Seen a lot of posts running this setup. Was wondering if going with components for the front would be a better option or just stick with these?
9th, I'm sure any decent components are going to require an amp or a replacement headunit to power them effectively. If you proceed with your plans I'm curious how it turns out.
ATC, build one, just less complex? I'd gladly help with the box design. Especially if using a quality US made sub and avoiding those awful terminal cups.
Looking to upgrade the speakers in my 17 with the Sony system. Don’t plan on adding an aftermarket amp yet. Seen a lot of posts running this setup. Was wondering if going with components for the front would be a better option or just stick with these?
Dayton Audio PS95-8
C2-690tx
C2-650X
Spend a bit more for components from a major brand.
Believe it or not, both Focal, Audiofrog, Morel, HAT, as well as some of the more main stream brands make very affordable component speakers.
I posted in here quite a while ago. I installed door speakers, and an aftermarket HU, and then put the brakes on my stereo while I did other things.
Well, I'm sick of not having bass any longer. I have been out of the game for 10+ years...so I may need a little more help.
I want to put an amp on my front speakers. I believe they are rated for 50w RMS, and I want to use a sub that is in the 400-500w range. Any recommendations for amps?
Also, where would I splice into the speaker wires? I've never done an amp for the door speakers before. I can splice it directly out the rear of the HU, but I can't remember if they run through the iDatalink Maestro before going to the speakers first or not?
@Tricon What are the dimensions of the box you made? Specifically the bottom and top depths. I just want to run one sub on the drivers side. Also, how deep of a sub can you use in that box?
Sorry dude, just saw this. I know I'm posted the measurements here before but I can't seem to find them. You're never going to fit a full sized sub back there, but I know my box allowed me to fit any 10 or 12 shallow sub, and there's a lot of really good shallow subs out there now. If you're just running 1, why not something like the JL 13.5TW, that thing bumps and it super shallow. I know the bottom depth was more than enough, its the top of the trapezoid that screws you on most subs. I do remember that my box was 1.1 cu ft., which was perfect for my subs as they wanted .55 cu ft for sealed enclosures.
Sorry dude, just saw this. I know I'm posted the measurements here before but I can't seem to find them. You're never going to fit a full sized sub back there, but I know my box allowed me to fit any 10 or 12 shallow sub, and there's a lot of really good shallow subs out there now. If you're just running 1, why not something like the JL 13.5TW, that thing bumps and it super shallow. I know the bottom depth was more than enough, its the top of the trapezoid that screws you on most subs. I do remember that my box was 1.1 cu ft., which was perfect for my subs as they wanted .55 cu ft for sealed enclosures.
No problem...Thanks for all your help throughout this entire thread first off!
Since posting that, I think I have figured out my sub and amp. I still haven't made up my mind yet on a box.
I'll get a separate 2 or 4 channel amp at another time for my door speakers.
ATC, build one, just less complex? I'd gladly help with the box design. Especially if using a quality US made sub and avoiding those awful terminal cups.
I might. I have the week after next off from work, so I might get a sheet of wood and see what happens...
