For about $1,000 you can get an amp, a great set of front components (the rears are fill speakers, I wouldn't waste the money tbh) and a couple 10's and an amp for them. That's essentially what I did, its one of the best sounding systems I've built and the least amount of money Ive ever spent on a sound system.

If you are paying someone to do the work for you, its probably 2-3x that amount, just FYI.

I highly recommend this little Class D amp for $120. I'm getting 200w RMS x 2 for my front components and its crystal clear at 100% volume. It fits behind the dash, under the Sync3 APIM, easy to wire directly to your harness since the harness is right there anyways, power and ground are easy to run, and its loud as *****.


I bought Infinity Perfect Kappa 600's for the front sound stage, very happy with these as well. Don't think you can get a better component setup until you hit $1,000+

Add an amp and a couple 10's to the rear and you'll be blasting tunes for a long, long time.

 

 

I'm about to get started on mine. Just wondering if anyone notices anything that won't work:

SuperCab with basic Sync.

Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX head unit
Focal Integration ISC-690 front door speakers (6x9)
Infinity REF-6532ex rear door speakers (6-1/2")
Might go ahead and do the center dash speaker...it's cheap enough.

After that, eventually a mono amp and 10" subwoofer in the 350-400W RMS range (need to figure out something that will fit in a SuperCab)


Do you think I need an amp for the door speakers? The HU alone provided plenty for me in the past two trucks I upgraded with HU and speakers ('97 F150, '07 Dodge 2500). I don't particularly listen to music loud...just like it to be clear with good bass.

 

That head unit, like almost everything on the market, won't create a center channel. So forget the dash speaker.

Those are pretty efficient speakers, you will be fine without an amp.

 

My Kenwood drives the dash speaker. My truck didn't even come with the dash speaker. I added by just plugging into the existing OEM connector that was there.

 

I'm getting old but I think the new B and O system sounds just fine, much better than my MB E350.

 

Looks like a good setup, I'd skip the rear speakers and dump that money into your sub and amp, that sub will be the biggest bang for your buck in terms of sound quality improvement. Music without bass is like a diesel without a turbo. Those ISCs are great seekers for the money. Definitely go with a component speaker up front and not a coaxial.

 

You don't think it would sound funny with stock rear speakers? I keep the F/R balance at 50/50 between them. Would even a $50-75 pair be worth it over the stockers?

Looking at the Pioneer TS-SW3002S4 sub in a Pioneer UD-SW300D slim box (gotta measure to see if it will fit under the rear middle seat first)

 

Upon measuring and eyeballing it....I'm gonna have to make my own custom box to fit anything worthwhile. The largest slim truck box I feel comfortable with putting back there is only like 0.35 cu-ft. Not getting much out of that...

Thinking about a box behind the center jumpseat, facing backwards and up at a 45* angle to maximize usable space, volume, and looks/room for rear passengers,

 

 

So I have a 2017 Crew Cab XLT premium, with Sync and Nav. I would like to spend about $5-600 and improve sound quality...meaning an amp, speakers, and maybe a sub. I want everything to look and operate as stock. Is this possible?

 

Hey Guys...back to basics for this post.

Here is an upgrade I made to the stock stereo that included just the speakers. Pretty impressive for just $350 and about 90 minutes of work.

 

Rear speakers are fill speakers at best, most audiophiles won't even use rears, I would seriously consider just upgrading your fronts or putting that extra $50-75 in a better front component as 95% of your sound volume and quality is going to come from them. Especially if you are amping the fronts and not the rears. A good quality home stereo plays music from the front 2 speakers....its not until you get into high end DSP's and 5.1/7.1 sound sources that rear speakers will start to show a benefit, and you don't have a 5.1 source in your truck so it a moot point anyways.


I built my own 2x10's box for behind the rear seat in my CrewCab, its really not that hard if you have ever built anything with wood and it gave me 1.1 cu ft. of space while still allowing me to raise my seats up in the rear. Cost was maybe $50 in materials and a saturday afternoon. It sounds fantastic. If you're a DIYer, I would definitely give it a shot. If you just want to be done with it, you can buy a slim 10 box and it will still give you some acceptable low end. These trucks are seriously lacking in that department.

Definitely! I would look at something like this:

6x9 front components Infinity Refernce $120

A 4 channel bridgeable amp like this pioneer, 100x4 (100w x2 to your fronts, bridge the rear 2 channels for your sub) $135

A 10" sub behind the rear seat: (I have no personal expereince with this, but it looks great: $180

Sub, something like this Polk DB should sound great with that wattage and it looks like its shallow enough to fit in that box: $89
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_107DB10...VC.html?tp=111

That's $524, plus wiring, you should be around $600 and that system will blow you away for the money. You could save some money and find a wedge box with a 10" sub in it, just have to find one that fits.

 

Thanks Tricon. Good audio advice as always. It's still going to be a month or two before I even have time, but I might indeed go with your advice.

As a side note, I've just ordered a set of 35x12.5x18 BFG KO2 tires to put on my truck. I am not going to lift...I like the way these trucks sit with 35's and no mods. I also have the Fox 2.0 shocks. How do you feel the truck drives / handles / accelerates / brakes and fuel economy with this size tire? I ran this setup before on my 2016 King Ranch diesel and found each of those categories was worse than stock, but I don't care since I like the look and I found the truck rode better.

 

To be honest, I didnt see much of a difference between the stockers and 35's, its only about 1" difference and if anything I saw a marginal increase in ride comfort. The size of the tire isnt going to effect your performance in accel or decel as much as the weight of the tire is (unless you're going huge like a 37 or 38"). There can be a 10-15lb difference in the weight of some of these tires. I agree, a 35 looks really good at stock height, also it looks like that tire weighs 67.5 lbs, which is pretty good for a 35 (I think my grabbers are like 75lbs a piece), I don't think its going to hurt your performance much at all. The ride might be a little stiffer on a KO2 than your stock tires, but the grip will sure be a lot better, not to mention the looks.