I've never been a Ford guy, but one thing excited me about the 2017 SD - ALUMINUM body....so I've ordered an F350 Lariat. I'm an anti rust freak---it drives me crazy and I'm constantly fighting it in every vehicle I've ever owned. SO..........now I'll have a permanently rust free body......but what about the steel frame and undercarriage??? I'm planning on spraying the steel undercarriage parts only with a wax based product (not oil based) (similar to ziebart) called "undercoating in a can".....I won't spray any of the aluminum parts.

What are your thoughts on rustproofing issues with an aluminum body/steel frame-undercarriage? Interested in everyone's thoughts on this topic.

 

Many of the sought after rust prevention measures are wax base. Fluid film comes to mind and there are many who strongly support the product with good results. GM frames are wax coated and like all good systems must be refreshed annually. Ford frames are electrostatically coated similar to powder coating. Krown rustproofing is also well thought of and I will have my truck done as well including all cavities, especially the doors, cab corners and inside the box frame as well as all the exposed metal components as well. It is an oil based product and fairly inexpensive to have done annually. The ability of any of the professional installers to reach spots a rattle can will not is a decision you need to make but if the prevention of rust is important remember it will find the spots you cannot see or reach first. Coating the aluminum is just additional insurance against corrosion, the way I see it.

 

The Aluminum body is a misnomer. They use an alloy called Al-Li. Its a aluminum and lithium compound that is corrosion resistant. Otherwise a fully aluminum body would corrode terribly in salt and chemicals. The Al-Li is a really tough alloy. The tensile strength is great too.
Now, regarding the frame. Ford coats the frame, inside and out with a very nice hard coating. Other manufacturers still use a soft spray on coating that will wash off with a pressure washer, but this Ford coating won't.
I'm just like you. HATE RUST! I've undercoated every vehicle I've ever owned myself or professionally and this is the first one that I'm considering not doing, other than just touching up any bare metal parts with good paint underneath.
I generally spend 5 days under a new vehicle before I ever drive it painting everything on the suspension, frame and engine bay.
As a side note. When painting the frame and underside, I use a good heat spray paint that is reasonably priced at Advance Auto Parts. Its called high heat "Low Gloss Black" I've bought more cases of this paint than I'd like to admit. The sheen is a perfect match for the factory sheen of the suspension parts, and it last for years and years. I've had it on a farm tractor since 2008, and you know what kind of beating they take, and it still looks new. You don't have to worry about heat as it holds up well there too.


It's hard to spend this kind of money just to watch it turn that dull red and flake to the ground! Not me!


I hope this helps.

 

Well, the frame is boxed and much thinner. So rust proofing may be a good idea.
Aluminum does not rust but it certainly is susceptible to oxidation and corrosion. So you still need to keep it clean and fix stone chips ect.
Salt does indeed attack aluminum. Aluminum boat owners have been aware of this for many decades and use paints to protect their hulls. Sacrificial anodes help prevent drive parts from dissolving in the water.
Aluminum forms a layer of oxide and sort of "self heals". But this layer can get thicker and thicker and eventually pits can form. So you need to keep up with the paint damage the same way you would on any metal truck.
Interestingly, most late model trucks with galvanized steel hoods resist rust from stone chips better than aluminum resists oxidation or pitting.

 

You guys are overthinking this. Ford has stated in their TV ads "the body will never rust."

3 years ago, I sold my 1992 Range Rover which had an all-aluminum body except the tailgate. After many years of driving it off-road, the body was battered, dented, paint spots removed, trail scratches and scars, etc. There was not a spec of rust on the body. It was 21 years old with 165k miles on it. The achilles heel of the body was that the aluminum body was mostly a "skin" supported by steel. So the aluminum door edges rolled down to meet steel, and some galvanic white corrosion had formed. After 21 years, it was very, very mild.

10 years ago, we owned a 1999 Audi A8 4.2L quattro. The car was fully aluminum, including the space-frame chassis. No steel at all. We sold it 4 years ago. Its entire life was spent in the salty northeast, we never had it undercoated or rust protected in any way. Just washed / waxed as usual. Not a spec of rust anywhere, top or bottom.

The new Super Duty's body simply is not going to rust. The chassis, axles, springs, and steering gear will still be prone to rust. I am going to Fluid Film these areas. I have zero intention of spraying cab corners, floor pan, bedsides, or door bottoms. There simply is no point. Because of my previous experience with aluminum, I'm sold on it. It is going to be a very long-lived vehicle.

 

I just got mine Krowned... They sprayed every part inside and out. Frame, Doors, Bed, Axle's etc. It dripped for over a week from the excess material used. Quite satisfied knowing that it should get me through the winter. Just remember to get it resprayed once a year and park your newly sprayed vehicle in a grassy area or on a gravel drive. Spots everywhere. I also bought a touch-up spray can at the time of application. If you Gooogle undercoatings.... Krown seems to always come up with the best reviews.

 

Join the herd. Move to the South.

 

Did you put up your Xmas tree already?

 

I recognize the qualities of the aluminum body but the window tracks in the door need some protection. The brake and transmission lines too. The frame won't show rust for a few years but other lower extremities will start in the smallest of spots then advance, like a cancer. Krown is fairly inexpensive compared to others and Troverman, as much as I am probably overthinking this, cheap insurance at this point. And if the truck looks perfect in 3 or 4 years if I trade early this time? I am sure it will be money in my pocket.

 

Whoa...you really are overthinking it. Seriously? Have you had a problem with this is the past? I've some really old beater, pretty rusted out, but never had an issue with window tracks. I've broken teeth of the regulators and had to replace motors, but never rusted the tracks.

I don't fault you for wanting to protect your new big investment - I just think spraying Krown or Fluid Film on the aluminum areas will do nothing other than serve to pick up dirt and dust. I agree with the brake lines, etc...but I'm not going to spray anything aluminum. I know you've had bad experience with your truck getting rusty - and I've seen a lot of them - but this will be a game-changer. Just protect the steel bits underneath and it will look great for many years to come. No more rust-through on the bed wheel arches, cab corners, and door sills.

 

Lincoln LS dropped the drivers window due to rust at 90K miles. Ranger dropped the drivers window at 140K miles due to rust.These were our owned vehicles. Had to fix or help several others through the years. I hope I am past the point of keeping them into that phase of their life, but if not, I want to be a Boy Scout: Be Prepared!

 

Wow, I had never heard of this. Good to know. And our town usually likes to remove 2-3" of snow with salt rather than a plow! But I'm going to assume maybe those frames inside the door are AL as well now?

 

I doubt they would change the mechanics of the window operators. The worst point which the rustproofing probably doesn't touch are the friction points where the galvanizing wears off the tracks, the pins on the operating arms and the felt strips which hold the glass in place and the moisture is retained for days after a good soaking. Best remedy is to trade before the problems start and let someone else worry about it. Something I need to learn how to handle. Through the past vehicles the pure enjoyment of 100% ownership (no payment book) has been worth the hassles which come with the longevity of ownership. Getting old now and more resistant to tearing things apart to make them right. Last week with the transmission fluid running down my arm to change out rusted lines reminded me how strongly I wish for my new truck.

 

Thanks for the correction. It bugs me too when I see it.

 

It appears other metals touching the aluminum will be the largest possible problem as it will work like an old battery. Conduction, corroding, mess.

Adding stuff like tonneau covers bull bars etc will they be risks of metal corrosion?