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So I am 99% sure I need head gaskets again. Been loosing coolant, not fast at all, thought it was a leak. No puking, just a dribble now and then. Last time was 7 yrs ago. Oil cooler and BPD EGR cooler were done last yr. No smoke. ECT/EOT is 5-7.
I put a pressure gauge on the coolant system. Climbed to 15psi in 3mi of light driving. Hit 17psi when the ECT was 160 - it was not even warmed up yet and don't forget I'm in FL so it warms up quick. I've got a combustion gas tester on the way (ordered before the psi test) but it seems pretty unnecessary now.
So anyone disagree?
Advice?
I'm looking at heads from UCF Machine shop. Last time the Ford tech put a straight edge on them and said they looked perfect. I'll get the updated push rods.
Anything else I should do. I have 89K mi on it - seems early for injectors.
What should this cost these days? There are 2 Ford techs that are very good in the area. Probably use one of them. There is also an independent shop with a really good diesel mechanic - probably hasn't done 100 of these though.
Where is the best place to get Ford Parts online these days. All my old favorites are no longer good deals
You will want to replace the plastic retaining clips on your rocker arms. My early build has metal clips. You will want either brand new plastic clips or if you can find 2003 metal clips, even better.
Lots of things you could do at same time as heads. It depends on what work is due. Here is what I did:
Removed and cleaned exterior of radiator & intercooler
Replaced EGR cooler w/ BPD unit
BPD water pump
FEAD belt & tensioner
Upper & Lower rad hoses
Removed but retained fan & clutch (only 4 yrs old)
Replaced steering gearbox
Inspected entire HPO system. New crankcase-to-head tubes come w/ OEM head gaskets. Reseated above and below pump, ball tubes and other areas as needed. Had failing o-ring in braided oil line (early build only).
New IPR. Only because electrical connection was broken
Resealed ICP Sensor. Retained (replaced 5 - 6 yrs ago)
Resealed oil cooler and inspected oil screen. Oil screen already previously updated to stronger version (ford updated part). Retained oil cooler since my deltas near zero.
Resealed most everything touched, like heater hose o-ring, banjo bolts
Retained 6.0 banjo bolts. But if you want the 6.4 banjo bolts w/o the check valve, now is good time to do it.
Cleaned internals of turbo, intake manifold, EGR valve
Retained degas bottle, but it was relatively new
Miscellaneous painting, cleaning & inspecting.
Cleaned EBP sensor/tube
Replaced glow plugs & glow plug buss bars
Hard to know w/ certainty where to draw the line. Budget obviously is a factor. You don't want to do too much or too little. It was hard to pass up opportunity to take my time and combine a lot of other work at same time, while I had everything apart.
My parts source was Autonation Ford White Bear Lake. If there is a cheaper source out there, I sure would like to know it.
In my dreams I might do it myself. In reality, I might never drive the truck again waiting to find time to finish. Fortunately I have already done a lot of your list. Autonation used to be tousley and they were the best deal - still decent but not like it used to be.
Is the steering gearbox a known trouble issue or did you do it since it was going to be easier to get to?
One BIG note of cation. Don't use scotch pads for cleaning the deck or head.
It does not take much to make a leak path and pads are a good way to do it.
Remind me and I'll post the PDF that gives the cleaning steps. PC is down right now but I think I should have it back by tonight.
x 2 on block prep. Verify method shop will use. Long stones 600 grit and higher are best IMO.
For steering gear box, easier to access was my reason. I was approaching 200k miles on original with some wander starting. Other front end components already replaced. Part not necessarily a weakness, but they do wear out.
Wish I could help you on this project firsthand. I'm in Seattle though, other end of country.
In my dreams I might do it myself. In reality, I might never drive the truck again waiting to find time to finish. Fortunately I have already done a lot of your list. Autonation used to be tousley and they were the best deal - still decent but not like it used to be.
Is the steering gearbox a known trouble issue or did you do it since it was going to be easier to get to?
White Bear Lake Ford Parts(Formely known as Tousley) is still the best place to buy parts.....10% over what it costs them from Ford....
x 2 on block prep. Verify method shop will use. Long stones 600 grit and higher are best IMO.
For steering gear box, easier to access was my reason. I was approaching 200k miles on original with some wander starting. Other front end components already replaced. Part not necessarily a weakness, but they do wear out.
Wish I could help you on this project firsthand. I'm in Seattle though, other end of country.
Best of luck in getting truck back up to snuff.
Seattle you say. You should come to the meet next week.
We are doing the planning in the Washington Chapter forum.
Just look for the Meet thread >>> Washington Chapter - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
Going to try to get this going again.
Here is a Head Gasket install and prep from DieselTechRon.
Thanks everyone. I'm getting together an order. Last time I checked AutoNation was not that great but it looks like they are the best again. I'm glad - they were always good to me.
I can't find a part number for the retaining clips for the rocker arms. Maybe I don't know what I am looking for. I figure I'll have them do the oil rail nipple o-rings and glow plugs while it is apart. Oil cooler was 2 yrs ago. Seems too soon - and the deltas look great.
For anyone else in the same boat, the superceded push rods are 8c3z-6565-b - 16 of them.
With as much riding on it as you have, would a second pressure gauge be a good investment to confirm system pressure?
Did you see any pressure correlation to boost, or did you just achieve 16+psi significantly earlier then expected?
Best of luck with the project.
There was not much boost - I was taking it easy. The pressure just build up way too quick. I think the gauge is accurate - I just bought it - and I loosened the cap and there was a lot of pressure there. I could watch the gauge drop as I released pressure. Tomorrow I have the combustion gas tester arriving - that will eliminate any doubt.
Here is the update - It was a head gasket failure. It was on the driver's side in two places. I actually could hear a whistle there - wasn't sure if I was imagining it but that is exactly where the problem was.
I have been running Matt's tunes with ARP studs and thought I was safe. Guess not.
Surface prep can make or break a head gasket job. You don't want to
use a die grinder do to the damage it can do to the surface. Anything that
can scratch won't work.
Hmm.... I'll bet the prep wasn't done right or not OEM gaskets. Fel Pro has had a good reputation for the 6.0 and I've used them for years on my race car motors. Never a issue with them. I'm going to use them on my truck when the time comes. I have a saying "If it Anit broke don't fix it". I think you should find a good machine shop that knows the 6.0 head and have it done there. You can reuse the studs just clean them up nice and get their lube for torque time.
they were definitely OEM gaskets. Ford Senior Diesel Tech did it, but I am not sure what the opinion on surface prep at the time was. I got heads from UCF Machine shop in PA - really nice - o-ringed and decked
