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Shift linkage broken in column?
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Shift linkage broken in column?
Hi, I have a 77 F-100 SWB with a 2v 302 and c4. A couple days ago I shifted into reverse and lost function of the shifter. I also have a no longer alive 75 F-150 that had a similar situation where it ended up being the linkage retainer clip by the tranny. That isn't the case this time as I can pop the hood and manually move the linkage at the column and everything shifts perfectly. I have no experience with steering columns other than replacing a wheel or signal cam. Is there a shift tube that can be replaced? Do I need a new column? I haven't had time to investigate further due to life liberty and the pursuit of a happy wife. Any help is appreciated and I'll report with any further findings. Thanks!
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
Two possibilities, either the bridge in the shift collar has broken or the key on the shift tube has broken loose. Both can be replaced.
The most common is the bridge breaking.
This is whats inside the column
The most common is the bridge breaking.
This is whats inside the column
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 10,767
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
Likely the shift collar as Mike said, it's a cast metal we used to call "pot metal". I have seen NOS Ford ones on ebay, etc and Dorman makes one as well. I R&R ed mine, Mike and others helped a bunch with tips. This ain't got pics but maybe there is something that will help you with it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...witch-tab.html
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...witch-tab.html
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
The part number is D5TZ-7228-A
Edited to correct part number.
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Last MSRP: $64.38 - Dealer net cost: $42.92 / 269 available NOS ~ Largest quantity: VINTAGE PARTS in Beaver Dam WI has 215 = 877-846-8243.
Applications: 1965/77 F100/350 / 1973/77 Bronco.
1965/72 shift sockets had the pointer made as part of it. 1973/77's have a separate plastic pointer that slips onto the socket (collar).
Now you've gone and done it, many Ford parts guys call it a shift collar, as I have...in a gazillion posts here on FTE
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
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Well it took a while before I got time to inspect further. It's indeed a broken "collar". It looks like the shift lever snapped it after nearly 40 years. I guess I'll take this opportunity to replace the broken signal cam and the missing rubber piece from the steering coupler to take out the slop. My next question is do I have to cut the wiring in the column to get the collar off? I'm really not looking forward to that much tedious soldering. I appreciate all the help.
I'll be making a trip to the bone yard soon. Every time I go I always look at the 73-79s regardless of what I'm working on. I used to wonder why certain things were always missing from them. In hindsight now I know what's going to break on mine in the future.
I'll be making a trip to the bone yard soon. Every time I go I always look at the 73-79s regardless of what I'm working on. I used to wonder why certain things were always missing from them. In hindsight now I know what's going to break on mine in the future.
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Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
Unplug the connector and look at it head on. You'll see little plastic tabs that locks each of the terminals in place. Take a seal pic, nails, paper clip, etc. Depress the tab and pull the wire out.
Just be sure, before you pull the wires out, make a map of the wire locations so you get them back in the right order.
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From: The Shenandoah Valley
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So I got everything off. It wasn't bad. I just made a drawing of the plug and made note of what color wire with what stripe went to each hole. I think the hardest part was getting the clip off that keeps the bearing in place. I have limited tools so it took a bit of time with a tiny flathead and some pliers. I was able to get a replacement from the wrecking yard for 5 bucks sans shift lever. I took my broken one to a nearby shop and they took out the shifter pin and swapped my lever free of charge in about 5 mins. I haven't put it on yet as I'm attempting to replace the "rag joint" on the column before I button everything up. I've hit a snag though. I took off the coupler on the steering box side by removing the pinch bolt. It looks like the two "bolts" that go through the joint are more like rivets. I can take pliers and spin them on the coupler but they don't back out. How do I remove those without cutting them off?
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2009
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From: Stanley, VA
Be sure you're grabbing the right ones.
There are two pins that don't come out, these are safety pins that make sure you can still steer if the coupling breaks. These are riveted. In the picture, these are the green rectangle.
Then there are two bolts that do unbolt, these are the ones that you remove. In the picture, they're in the orange rectangle.
There are two pins that don't come out, these are safety pins that make sure you can still steer if the coupling breaks. These are riveted. In the picture, these are the green rectangle.
Then there are two bolts that do unbolt, these are the ones that you remove. In the picture, they're in the orange rectangle.
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Yeah I have the two bolts off, but my rag joint replacement has 4 holes and I can't put those saftey pins through it without them being removed as far as I can tell. There's still chunks of the original stuck on them. I was confident I could do it quickly until I saw those.
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