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Light tapping sound on load

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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 07:06 AM
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Light tapping sound on load

I am currently rebuilding the 1 barrel as it was flooding over but I am also trying to solve a light tap or knock under load. The I6 in my truck is older and I have a few ideas .... possible low copression in a hole due to fuel wash from the slobbery carb, possible rod knock I cant remember if the rods are positive stop or adjsutable, possible connecting rod but not a hard enough knock, or maybe lower oil pressure but I am unsure, the guage does read lower now that the sludge is gone. The noise is only on acceleration lightly, not at an idle, not while cruising, not under rev with no load just with slight load can you hear it. Kinda like a screwdriver tapping on a metal sheet or something. Any ideas? Once the carb is back in and timing is set maybe it will go away. Anyone got a good link to timing on the I6? Thanks FTE
 
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 07:55 AM
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Exhaust leak?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 10:13 AM
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spark knock?
 
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 11:08 AM
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Might be a small exhaust leak as the manifold was so badly broke there is a new one in its place a week ago. I could believe spark knock as it is in the middle of a tune, the ignition is new, the carb is being rebuilt this weekend in the garage and then to set timing. I am just hoping not lifters or loose rockers but might have to open it up
 
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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Usually with a lifter the noise is not load dependent.

A small exhaust leak can sound a lot like a lifter/valvetrain issue.

It could be a rod bearing. It sounds like you de-sludged it recently. If a good size piece got loose it could have caused a problem.

Another thing worth checking would be flex plate bolts if is automatic. Or potential crack in the clutch pressure plate which can make a light metallic noise sort of like valvetrain.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 04:51 PM
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Also there is a possibility of piston slap. High mileage older 300's tend to crack at the skirt.
 
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Old Nov 11, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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You said new ignition. New distributor? I had the same issue with my 460, just solved it last weekend. If you pull off the the vac advance hose from the dizzy, you can insert a small screwdriver into the nipple. There is apparently a set screw in there that can adjust when the advance come in. (Not total advance, just at what rpm it comes in at) Mine was screwed in all the way, I unscrewed it all the way(about 10ish turns if I remember correctly). Then screwed it in to 5 turns out. Still had spark knock, screwed it in another 1 or 2 turns and that seems to have fixed it. Saw this tip in another thread on here.
 
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Old Nov 13, 2016 | 04:44 PM
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Sorry new ignition other than the distributor ... this weekend I got the valve cover done and was checking the pushrods, they are positive stop rockers so i think I am putting my money on lifters after the sludge is gone. Big Dan I might check out what you were mentioning to see if it is the same ... is it a flat blade screw inside?

If it is lifters I am thinking of running a litre or two of transmission fluid and then change oil again in a day or so. It might clean some sludge that wont move out of a lifter and maybe they will prime up again. If I had to guess it might be due for them anyways.
 
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Old Nov 16, 2016 | 08:11 PM
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Yes, flat blade screw driver. I need to adjust mine some more. Driving this weekend it kept pinging again, not sure if it needs more adjustment or if that won't fix it.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 07:22 PM
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Well greentruck72 you were right ... took getting a new timing light the old one didnt want to work with the advance dial ... something inside it must be finished. Cheers to everyone and to a quiet valve train
 
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Old Dec 1, 2016 | 07:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Grandpas77
Well greentruck72 you were right ... took getting a new timing light the old one didnt want to work with the advance dial ... something inside it must be finished. Cheers to everyone and to a quiet valve train
Glad you got the gremlins out of it. Like to see these old boys on the road
 
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