When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So managed to save up a few pesos to start rebuilding the rear braking system on my truck. Had to disassemble the rear brake light on one side so I can figure out if I had the two inch wide shoes or the two and a half inch wide shoes because nap I couldn't look it up but you can't really blame them because evidently Ford used like 3 different braking systems on the rear ends of these trucks. So I go through the process take off my Wheel and Tire pull the axle shaft and then I noticed I have a nasty little surprise. It looks like whatever Yahoo did the brakes before I did didn't set up the preload on the bearings correctly at all and I had almost a quarter inch of the Hub and bearing assembly sliding back and forth on my spindle. I took a video I'm going to try to figure out how to post it so you guys can see what I'm talking about. Thank God my spindle wasn't ruined or at least it doesn't appear so.
So managed to save up a few pesos to start rebuilding the rear braking system on my truck. Had to disassemble the rear brake on one side so I can figure out if I had the two inch wide shoes or the two and a half inch wide shoes, because napa I couldn't look it up, but you can't really blame them because evidently Ford used like 3 different braking systems on the rear ends of these trucks.
1973/79 F250 4WD's have 12" x 2 1/2" rear brakes.
1973/76 F250 2WD's (except Camper Special) could have 12 1/8" x 2" or 12" x 2 1/2" rear brakes as it depends on the GVWR
1973/79 F250 Camper Specials and 1977/79 F250 2WD's have 12" x 2 1/2" rear brakes.
See pic: Dana 60/61/70 rear axles have two locking nuts (4252) with a lock washer (1124) between them.
The lock washer has tabs that are bent over onto the two lock nuts to retain them in place.
It would appear from your description that a former owner either didn't bend the tabs, or the tabs broke off when it was taken apart.
1973/76 F250 2WD's (except Camper Special) could have 12 1/8" x 2" or 12" x 2 1/2" rear brakes as it depends on the GVWR
1973/79 F250 Camper Specials and 1977/79 F250 2WD's have 12" x 2 1/2" rear brakes.
See pic: Dana 60/61/70 rear axles have two locking nuts (4252) with a lock washer (1124) between them.
The lock washer has tabs that are bent over onto the two lock nuts to retain them in place.
It would appear from your description that a former owner either didn't bend the tabs, or the tabs broke off when it was taken apart.
Tabs were bent as I had to straighten them to pull the outer nut. So I have no idea what the p.o. did to mess it up that bad. Kinda made the ol but cheeks pucker when I remember going over 100 mph in it.... me thinks there was some guardian angel action there.
Still working on posting the video.
Last edited by belshe92; Oct 13, 2016 at 11:24 PM.
Reason: bleep bleeping auto-correct the scourge of many a post!
I'd guess the drum was slid on over the shoes til it stopped. Then, instead of lifting, turning, and pushing all the way to the back, the installer just left it. Then, came back and tightened the nut/lock ring/nut with the drum canted. Or maybe the drum was hanging-up on the brake shoes. Either way, the drum didn't get all the way on
I've got some light ( for lack of a better term) scrubbing on the spindle but nothing feels to terrible to the finger no rough patches anywho there is a bit of play between the spindle and the inner race of the old bearings but I'm hoping the new ones fit better/ eliminate the play. I don't want to know how difficult the remedy is if the spindle is buggered. hoping to find the calipers or the micrometer to try to take a measurement at a few places to trey to check for roundness.
strange thing is the "scrubbing" is at the top of the spindle you'd think it would be on the bottom anyone know if the spindle is replaceable if its fubar? it was easy up front but last a knew most full floater rear axles have the spindles welded in?
I bet your wheel bearings and races are toast. and maybe the hub...hope not for your sake.
2 9/16 thin wall socket to get it torqued correctly. Ford has a ratcheted style rear axle nut, worth checking into.
Dana 60 full floater -*Rear
wheel bearing adjusting nut - 50 -80 ft lbs, back off 1/4 - 3/8 turn. (Check for play). Lock washer - bend a tab or two over the adjusting nut, or use the same bent ones in the same place.
wheel bearing locknut - 90 - 110 ft lbs.
Axle shaft retaining bolts - 40 - 50 ft lbs.
Between 65 and 75 ft lbs.. spin... tighten.. repeat.. repeat... repeat... until torqued,, then back off 1/4 turn... put on lock washer.. put on second nut.. torque.
This one is for those of us with Dana 60/70's. The usual spindle nut set of 3 pieces (a nut, washer with tabs to fold over, and another nut) usually work alright, but there is an easier way to go. Old Ford part # E8TZ-1A124-A, new # 8C3Z1A124A $46.55 EACH is all three of those in one. It is a one piece ratcheting style locknut that all you have to do is torque down and go. It takes a 4 prong style spindle nut socket. I have them on my front 60 and rear 70 and they work great.
bearings and races are shot, hub looks like it's good to go as the races were retained well and took the usual amount of persuading to extricate from the hub. my concern is the spindle..... praying the thing is still good to go.
Off hand anyone have the spec for what the diameter of the spindle on a rear d60 is supposed to be/ what acceptable tolerances are?
hoping to get it put back together tomorrow but I'm going to take some measurements of the spindle first. anyone know where I might find the size specs for a d60 spindle?
I had the same thing happen, but it toasted my hub. The spindle has some marks on it but nothing severe so I lightly sanded it and so far so good. Couldn't find anyone with a new hub, stumbled on a good one in a junk yard.
This one is for those of us with Dana 60/70's. The usual spindle nut set of 3 pieces (a nut, washer with tabs to fold over, and another nut) usually work alright, but there is an easier way to go.
Old Ford part # E8TZ-1A124-A, new # 8C3Z-1A124-A
It is a one piece ratcheting style locknut that all you have to do is torque down and go. It takes a 4 prong style spindle nut socket. I have them on my front 60 and rear 70 and they work great.
so this is how the project went.... on one side, get everything set spring kit installed removed old drum find wheel studs are fubar call napa have them pull the "propper studs" get new studs go to install and they fully seat with thumb preasure.....hmmm grab the calipers and the splines on the new ones are almost 15 thousandths smaller than the old call napa back hear head scratching they say bring in the old and new studs.... they measure them more head scratching.... it will take a week to get here.... it takes 2 weeks and they only ordered 5 have them re-order the rest, it will take a week 2 weeks later nothing they finally show up after an additional 4 days and now I've been to dam busy to finish the project....
and insult to injury I installed the seal without the inner bearing in place so there went a brand new seal.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.