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@best2drive Thanks, I will need to get my test meter on it, I have the same setup but can hear something click when max pressure is reached & it's not from that, maybe there's a relay is located elsewhere & I'm hearing that?When working as it should, mine shuts off at 120si, I don't know why they put a gauge there rather than in the dash though.........
For me the "ticking" was the pressure bypass valve on the compressor itself, it has a max 100 PSI and its start's the bypass at 111 for me. My compressor is just in front of the drivers rear tire. So this is where I could here my bypass noise. Seems funny that they would have placed it where they did, I wound have placed the pressure switch on the tank, and the pressure gauge inside the truck.
It's not the bypass valve, mine pops off too when the limit switch is malfunctioning, I replaced that a while ago as it wasn't sealing & would leak down pretty quick, I figured that it would cause premature wear on the compressor so it was an easy & cheap fix.Today I removed the bracket with the limit switch & gauge as I couldn't get the limit switch to budge in situ, the sealant they used sets like rock! Once removed it was easier to get some wrenches on to get the job done. I'm actually starting to wonder if the sound I hear is actually transmitting through the frame as I can "feel" the compressor running if I'm at a standstill, through the firewall, even though it's mounted just in front of the driver side rear wheel....I've confirmed that the switch doesn't work when cold so I've ordered a cheap 90-120 psi switch from Amazon, arriving tomorrow, it has spade terminals which will make it easier to change should it fail.
A quick question too.....how long does your truck take to “kneel”? Mine seems to take forever, I can hit the switch, get out of the truck, walk to the front of my trailer & wait for a minute while it lowers before setting thr front legs on the trailer.
Hi all! I thought I'd updated the thread after my last couple of issues, but I probably only updated one of the other threads....
So the issue with my Trax display is resolved, I found a bad connection in the three way connector between the module & the display, totally eliminated but replacing.
I also replaced the rear sway bar bushes on the axle with some universal urethane items, I couldn't find anything that was a direct replacement, we'll actually I found some that I modified to fit but apparently forgot to tighten one of the brackets as a couple of days later one was missing completely........so I got the universal ones which just required the brackets modifying to fit.
The compressor constant running when cold gas also been remedied with a cheap 90-110 psi switch from Amazon.
I have a new problem though @Y2KW57
My transfer pump has stopped working and the kneel function has also ceased working at the same time, I've been in contact with Transfer Flow & they've provided some installation information & wiring diagrams which I'm happy to share with anyone who might be interested, but it mentions an additional fuse that according to them is within 24" of the display.....so far I've been unable to locate it, I suspect that it also provides the power for the dump valve to enable the kneeling function. I know you have an encyclopedic knowledge of these wonderful trucks but can you remember where that fuse may be located, before I rip out the dash to get a better look?
I'm sorry. I feel badly because I've been in every corner of the plant that produced those trucks, and have witnessed them in every stage of production, but after this many years, there is no way I could recollect a wiring detail like that. To make room in my office, I moved all my papers on that truck to storage, so I can't even lay my hands on what few diagrams I had without emptying a remote mini warehouse in the hunt.
For wiring faults, I would check under the hood (power supply) and under the chassis (wire abrasion) before pulling the dash apart too much.
Ask me how I know...
In the case above, the fault that I was looking for was under the hood, at an add on fuse near the battery. Fuses should be installed as near as possible to the power source anyway, so under hood would be a good place to start looking for fuses.
On the Fontaines, I know there is some aftermarket wiring accoutrement installed between the OEM fuse box and the corner between the firewall and fender, sort of in that pocket of space where the OEM pass through circuits are staged on the driver's side firewall near the A Pillar, just above where one would reach down to loosen the bolt to the PCM.
In the case of my fruitless hunt under my dashboard, which eventually led me to looking under hood (hence, the suggestion that you reverse this order of diagnosis) the fuse itself was fine (which is why I didn't pursue it further), but on the second under hood review inspired by coming up empty under the dash, I found that the splice to the fuse holder was faulty, due to the truck alarm installer using too large of a crimp barrel for the size wire being spliced.
Naturally, I wasn't too happy with the "professional" who installed the alarm. I cut out ALL of his "work" and installed a proper fuse panel instead.
The covered fuse panel is mounted to an angular cradle that has a sloped water trough as a hood, to capture and redirect water entering from the hood to curbside fender gap. The cradle is pre-drilled to match existing holes in the inner fender.
I'm sorry. I feel badly because I've been in every corner of the plant that produced those trucks, and have witnessed them in every stage of production, but after this many years, there is no way I could recollect a wiring detail like that. To make room in my office, I moved all my papers on that truck to storage, so I can't even lay my hands on what few diagrams I had without emptying a remote mini warehouse in the hunt.
For wiring faults, I would check under the hood (power supply) and under the chassis (wire abrasion) before pulling the dash apart too much.
Ask me how I know...
In the case above, the fault that I was looking for was under the hood, at an add on fuse near the battery. Fuses should be installed as near as possible to the power source anyway, so under hood would be a good place to start looking for fuses.
On the Fontaines, I know there is some aftermarket wiring accoutrement installed between the OEM fuse box and the corner between the firewall and fender, sort of in that pocket of space where the OEM pass through circuits are staged on the driver's side firewall near the A Pillar, just above where one would reach down to loosen the bolt to the PCM.
In the case of my fruitless hunt under my dashboard, which eventually led me to looking under hood (hence, the suggestion that you reverse this order of diagnosis) the fuse itself was fine (which is why I didn't pursue it further), but on the second under hood review inspired by coming up empty under the dash, I found that the splice to the fuse holder was faulty, due to the truck alarm installer using too large of a crimp barrel for the size wire being spliced.
Naturally, I wasn't too happy with the "professional" who installed the alarm. I cut out ALL of his "work" and installed a proper fuse panel instead.
The covered fuse panel is mounted to an angular cradle that has a sloped water trough as a hood, to capture and redirect water entering from the hood to curbside fender gap. The cradle is pre-drilled to match existing holes in the inner fender.
No more wiring problems.
Thanks, I didn't expect you to remember, it was just me being over optimistic lol! I know what you mean about "professional installation" my truck has the Ford system 3/4 vehicle security system, which I'm assuming was a dealer installed option. In my entire life I've never seen such an untidy mess under the dash, at least the crimps are good, but all the splices are the scotchlock add a wire connectors, none of the wiring was cut to an appropriate length so lots of coiled wires held in place with random bits of tape aaaarghhh! I suppose I should be grateful for the fact it still functions as it should .....& although it annoys me every time I remove the lower dash panel, it will remain like that until it ceases to function as I'd have to rip it out completely and start again.
I'll start at the fuse box & go from there, thanks for your input again
Both issues fixed, the transfer pump not working was I believe caused by the tanks getting too far out of sync, this was caused by one of the blown fuses that I had replaced (as far as I can determine as the fault hasn't reoccurred) which I believe provided power to part of the Transfer flow system, since filing both tanks everything is fine again. The dump valve was a completely unrelated issue (I'd incorrectly assumed that it was due to the time it happened...) the 12v solenoid that sends air to the levelling valve to dump the air has stopped playing.....a simple fix once I understood how it actually worked....
I have drawings from Fontaine showing pipework & electrical equipment but they don't show how stuff operates & I thought that the dump solenoid released pressure from the air bags via the levelling valve, so ordered an incorrect solenoid valve. No matter how I plumbed it the suspension wouldn't raise........Then I found an online diagram for the Hadley levelling valve showing how air was applied to enable the dump! I ordered another solenoid valve & everything is fine again. Every day's a school day!
Obviously, since your truck is 23 years old, and since Fontaine hasn't manufactured the Classic Traveler in over 17 years, and since Fontaine discontinued offering the particular air suspension you have under your F-450 about 22 years ago.... expect supply, service, and support to be limited.
The air suspension you have was made by a small company in Iowa called Silent Drive, which specializes in lift axles for cement mixer trucks and heavy dump trucks.
While the particular suspension model you have can be loosely defined as the ALD-320, you should know that Silent Drive made many running changes to that axle. I recall seeing two ALD-330 axles (same design as the ALD-320, just rated to 13,600 lbs for the F-550, instead of 11,000 lbs for the F-450) ordered and delivered within the same 30 day period (back in late 2000) that were rated the same, but built with different hardware and parts.
The ALD-320 / 330 were built to order, as the sales volume of this family of air suspension systems appeared to be quite low, which would be hard to justify building to have stock on hand. Hence, it is unlikely that you will find much, if anything, in terms of parts inventory.
This was the first air suspension system that Fontaine chose for the Classic Traveler, but Fontaine quickly dropped it within the first year, and adopted the Reyco-Granning 345P parallelogram rear air suspension with lateral control arm instead. It was the Reyco-Granning 345P air suspension that was subject to a Safety Recall, not the Silent Drive. The 345P suspension was then dropped, and Fontaine finished the Classic Traveler production using a Link Air Ride system (of an earlier design that has also been discontinued).
Everyone should exercise their own due diligence when it comes to determining if their vehicle is subject to a safety recall, so any opinion or observation read on this forum in that regard should not be relied upon, as the reader and owner of the vehicle bears all responsibility for researching their own vehicle. I am unaware of any recalls for Silent Drive suspension products in the ALD-320 / 330 family of non steerable axle suspensions for light and medium duty vehicles with GAWRs under 15,000 lbs.
Silent Drive has subsequently been acquired by an investment group who combined two trailer axle companies, Dexter and AL-KO, which has become DEXKO, which is now the parent company of Silent Drive, also a principal producer of trailer lift axles for Class 8 heavy trailer applications.
Am I
Am I in the right place for questions about this bed? Was the closest thing found via Google. I need to replace a missing door. Don't judge me, it's a recent procurement and came as is.
Last edited by StandnTall; Sep 28, 2023 at 05:30 PM.
Reason: Additional photos
OMG, I've been looking for that bed for 20 years! Well not actively looking... but I haven't seen it in 20 years.
It is not a Fontaine, and it has nothing to do with the Classic Traveler.
I met with one of the folks behind the creation of that bed when they came out to CA for a meeting on a different truck related something or other.
I have always wanted to understand why that bed didn't take off like gangbusters. Conceptually, it hit a lot of hot buttons in unique ways that no other bed before or since has managed to hit in one offering. Conceptually, that is. In practical use, however, I wondered. That's why I've been sort of looking for it for the last 20 years. The last time I saw a photo of that bed, it was in 2003. Harvest Gold color.
You are more than welcome to post more photos of it, and discuss it. We can leave it all here in this topic for now, to pull in people who are already subscribed. Anyone interested in the Fontaine will surely be mildly interested in this unique blend of the Royal Sport sculpted utility body concept with the lower rail height SuperCrewZer II concept (which eventually became the Classic Traveler).
if interest takes off, we can move it all over to a new thread. Thanks for posting!
Wow, that was way ahead of it's time, makes use of a lot of dead space! If @Y2KW57 hasn't seen one for 20 years, I wouldn't hold out much luck for finding any parts......he has been a godsend to me with information about the Fontaine stuff & a wealth of knowledge about the history of these trucks.
I'd suggest contacting a company that makes fibreglass molds as I think that will be your best route. Do you have the broken door? If so it could be stuck back together to take a mold from, if not then it's going to mean some work & skills to make a template....
We do need more pictures & history though!
Hi, I’m new here so glad I found this thread… I have a 1999 f450 Fontaine package truck and I’d like to know if my truck has a recall.. I called ford and they said it didn’t but after seeing this I didn’t know I could contact Fontaine.. do you have a number for them or how did you contact them because I can’t find a number… I’d really appreciate any help.. thx in advance This is how it sits currently… I’ve owned it about 8 months and replaced the rear air springs and put the flatbed on.. Before. Before. Before replacing the bags and painted the frame Before. Before.
ance
do you still have the bed if so I'm interested in buying thanks
That bed is currently on a 2005 f450 in South Carolina on marketplace. Saw it and thought that I recognized it. notice the line below the passenger tail light and the faded fontaine on the mudflap.
Hello, iam new to this forum and just purchased a 99 f450 fontaine edition. I am looking for some help with the rear shocks. Does anyone know what shocks are on these trucks?
also, iam looking for some replacement bushings for the rear lower control arms and upper centering bar.
ANY help would be great.
Thanks
Hi, you seem like the guy to talk to about the Fontaine’s lol - How do I contact Fontaine because I have a 1999 f450 and I’d love to know what suspension package I have on mine.. and if there is any recall’s I’ve owned the truck about 8 months and replaced the rear air springs and put a flatbed on it.. Before. Before. Before replacing the bags and painted the frame Before. After. After. This is how it sits currently… I’ve owned it about 8 months and replaced the rear air springs and put the flatbed on..
Could you tell me what rear shocks you put on this truck?
Thanks
Hello, iam new to this forum and just purchased a 99 f450 fontaine edition. I am looking for some help with the rear shocks. Does anyone know what shocks are on these trucks?
also, iam looking for some replacement bushings for the rear lower control arms and upper centering bar.
ANY help would be great.
Thanks
The rear shocks in a 1999 model year Fontaine Classic Traveler... are the same as the Ford OEM stock rear shocks for the F-450 chassis cabs.
Even though the rear suspension system was changed from leaf springs to an air ride system, the original Ford issue shock absorbers were retained.
This holds true for both the Silent Drive ALD-320 Z Beam air ride, as well as for the Reyco-Granning 345P Parallelogram air ride.
To order replacement shocks, simply pretend that you have a bone stock, non-modified 1999 F-450 cab chassis.
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