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Im putting a 13 inch on my bumper, Im not buying the wiring harness. I need a constant 12v power source. I do have a switch already in the dash. I noticed like 4-6 wires coming up by the fuse box in the engine bay, what are those for? Anything that I could use? I need to take off for work so Ill look at it some more later tonight, but just thought I could get some advice if any of you guys had done this before.
Im putting a 13 inch on my bumper, Im not buying the wiring harness. I need a constant 12v power source. I do have a switch already in the dash. I noticed like 4-6 wires coming up by the fuse box in the engine bay, what are those for? Anything that I could use? I need to take off for work so Ill look at it some more later tonight, but just thought I could get some advice if any of you guys had done this before.
To determine what is necessary, amperage draw needs to be obtained. I assume you're going to switch it with a relay and activate the relay using system voltage?
I have never looked for them or seen them but I have read here that there are some extra wires through the firewall there for customer use, that might be what you have found.
Mine are tucked into the corner just above the steering column as it comes through the firewall. There are 4 of them I believe.
I have thought about wiring up a fuse block/panel to the passenger inner fender for a while. As things get added to my truck, I don't want to keep piggybacking off of fuses or wiring directly to the battery. Might look into that option as well.
To determine what is necessary, amperage draw needs to be obtained. I assume you're going to switch it with a relay and activate the relay using system voltage?
Do I need a voltmeter for that? Ive just got a switch on the dash that isnt hooked up that was in the truck when I purchased it. The lightbar came with a fuse tap. But its got a special type plug on it to connect the wires cuz they want you to go buy their wiring harness. I do know that it is 74W if that helps at all. Got home from work too late to mess with it yesterday, Ill see if I have time tonight.
Are those extra wires hooked up to anything or do they just run through the firewall?
I would use a relay for sure and use one of the pass through customer wires for the trigger. You don't want all that current going through the switch. I know it's not a lot, but it's safer.
I would use a relay for sure and use one of the pass through customer wires for the trigger. You don't want all that current going through the switch. I know it's not a lot, but it's safer.
I suppose youre right. I better do it the right way. . . You think it would be easier to just go buy a wiring kit?
Originally Posted by Bonanza35
The wire aren't hooked to nothing. Find them on the other side and you will see. Go for it.
The switch was wired to something else in the engine bay. So Ive already got wire through the firewall. Should I use that or use the accessory wiring?
This is the wiring kit the lightbar instructions recommend. For $25 Ill probably just do that, comes with all the relay fuse stuff.
Kind of a toss up on pre made relay kits in my opinion. If you don't have the parts to do it yourself, then a relay kit would be the way to go. I usually have everything on hand and have always felt more comfortable making my own. I find wiring stuff up to be very theroputic.
I'm not a big fan of piggybacking lights onto circuits (just a personal preference). A good fuse (and holder) through a rated relay and I connect it to the battery terminal. Connect the switch to the relay and you're good to go (as a good measure I put a small fuse on that line to just in case). It's a bit overkill but I've never had a problem with anything I've wired.
As for the connections, you might be able to find them on-line somewhere. If not you can either cut them off and put something a little more standard on there or buy their wiring harness. I don't know how the connections are done so don't know which way would be easier/cheaper.
Kind of a toss up on pre made relay kits in my opinion. If you don't have the parts to do it yourself, then a relay kit would be the way to go. I usually have everything on hand and have always felt more comfortable making my own. I find wiring stuff up to be very theroputic.
In the future Id like to do my own wiring. But ATM it just works better for me to get the kit.
Originally Posted by brian42
I'm not a big fan of piggybacking lights onto circuits (just a personal preference). A good fuse (and holder) through a rated relay and I connect it to the battery terminal. Connect the switch to the relay and you're good to go (as a good measure I put a small fuse on that line to just in case). It's a bit overkill but I've never had a problem with anything I've wired.
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Ill keep that in mind
Originally Posted by Sous
As I mentioned earlier, if you are looking to wire up quite a few things in the future, maybe something like this would be the right way to go.
That looks pretty cool may have to pick one up. I know at this point Id like another bigger light bar on the roof, and aux reverse lights. So that may be the way to go.
They didnt have the kit in stock today. . . Kinda bummed cuz I made a special trip into town. Oh well.
I put a couple 18 in lights on some trucks at work. They came with the switch kits that essentially was everything u need. Everything powered off the battery and it came with a switch that passed thru the firewall for a trigger.
On one truck, i used that b/c it did not have upfitter switches. On the others, I installed it to the upfitter switches thru the pass through wires.
Out of curiosity, I checked the amp draw and those lights only pulled 6 amps max. It would spike and then drop back off as the LEDs lit up.
I put a couple 18 in lights on some trucks at work. They came with the switch kits that essentially was everything u need. Everything powered off the battery and it came with a switch that passed thru the firewall for a trigger.
On one truck, i used that b/c it did not have upfitter switches. On the others, I installed it to the upfitter switches thru the pass through wires.
Out of curiosity, I checked the amp draw and those lights only pulled 6 amps max. It would spike and then drop back off as the LEDs lit up.
That did not come out until 2005. SOme guys have retrofitted our models to have them as well. They are just aux switches that are already on a relay for whatever accessory you want to hook up.