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Hi guys! I have another build/repair thread for the archives.
So along the Odyssey of repairing and improving my 95 F150, I notice that my front relatively new Cooper Discoverer AT3 tires were wearing unevenly and feathering (random raised tread blocks) was occuring. A quick look at the truck showed I was running some excessive (for these trucks) postive camber. For newbies this means the tires slant out at the tops.
As most of us know, I-beam suspension Fords kind of have adjustable camber (but not really). So I ordered new adjustable camber bushings from Amazon. These bushings promise a range of adjustability from -2 camber to +2. (ha ha ha...I still don't believe it, but still plenty of adjustability).
So to make this process easier, buy a 1-1/8th socket and adapter (3/4 to 1/2) because it's a HUGE socket. If you have a breaker bar (you should) then you have half the tools you'll need.
For starters jack your truck up, take the wheel & tire off, and PB Blast the hell out of the camber bushing. While the PB Blaster is soaking in, loosen the bolt and nut that squeezes the camber bushing in place.
Next put you 1-1/8th socket on the camber nut and start wiggling it back and forth. (remember a little heat can help free stuck nuts and bolts) (a plumbing MAP gas torch is the perfect heat solution) Use a pry bar to occasionally try to lift it out. With some perseverance, the bushing will come out. If you have an impact hammer, you'll have the camber bushing out in two seconds (no joke!).
Once it's out, grease up the camber bushing seat and the new camber bushing. I used green wheel bearing grease. Then place the new camber bushing over the hole and tap it in with a hammer. The top of the camber bushing is sloped, but an inside ring isn't. Use a deep socket to fit inside the ring and tap the bushing in. Once you get it in you can use the 1-1/8th socket and a 1-1/2 socket to make adjustments. Ultimately, you'll want to take it to an alignment shop to get everything squared away. If you choose that route (I hightly recommend it), retighten the cambur bushing squeeze bolt. Put your wheel+tire back on and your ready to roll.
I hope you guys like this thread. If you want to see it in video format, here is a video of me showing you the step by step process:
I have a 4x4 '96 F150 with a Dana 44 front axle. I replaced all 4 ball joints a few weekends ago. I did not do the camber bushings because the ball joints were so bad, they couldn't get a good alignment reading. So, I brought the truck back after the ball joint install to get some readings. As you can see, I am 1.3 degrees positive camber on the left and 1.7 degrees positive on the right. So it's time to order some new bushings, and I started to think: Wouldn't I need to know the degree setting of the current bushings in order to figure out how many degrees I need to adjust the camber?
In other words, if the current (and I believe original stock) bushings are, lets say set at negative 0.5 degrees, and I install bushings based on the readings of the alignment sheet, then I'll be negative 0.5 degrees off, correct? Or am I overthinking this? I have a pic of the readout and of the current bushing.
Yeah I wouldn't over think it. Just buy the adjustable camber bushings, install them, and take it down to an alignment shop. The camber bushings do adjust caster as well, so that is another measurement to consider. If you watch the video, you'll see that I adjust the camber in (negative) as far as I could without binding. Once you do that you can take it to a shop. It's just easier that way. I tried pre adjusting my camber bushings before install and the still were off. So just leave it to a shop and rest easy. Also the camber bushings do come with adjustment directions. Take those to the shop too. They may not need them (mine didn't), but you never know.
In summary of this below: don't just take your truck to an alignment shop or eat tires, inspect and replace if necessary your i-beam hinge bushings and ball joints first, as this is likely the only issue you have and it can cause major damage.
Hi guys, I thought I'd post here my experience because it seems like some ppl need a hand with this, as this is such a common problem. I fear most ppl are simply taking their trucks to the alignment shop, and probably 25% of them are getting a good alignment. Anyway, I just purchased this truck ('93 7.3 diesel 4x2) and quickly saw my camber was negative and had a rattle going over bumps. I rolled under the truck and saw my i-beam hinge bushings were very off-center. I'm going to take a stab and say that if your camber is way negative, as most of these older trucks I see on the road are that it's usually because your i-beam hinge bushing has rotted away to some level. This truck had been bouncing on an empty bushing so long it wore away the housing in the i-beam, so in the name of safety I opted to also replace the i-beam. The i-beam replacement is a b*tch, so do yourself a favor and replace that hinge bushing before or as soon as you hear a rattle. The bolt under the spring that traverses through the i-beam is particularly a PITA. I had to pull out all the stops: torch, wd-40, breaker bar with a 3' steel cheater bar, and then it took at least 25 f-words...but in the end it BROKE free so we can move on. In removing the i-beam axle I find I have 2 bad top ball joints...great, more work, but this is all contributing to my negative camber issue and tire eating problem. Luckily, only the short i-beam hinge bushing had worn into it's journal, so the long i-beam (drivers side) remained in the vehicle. I opted to install the adjustable camber bolts JIC, though I don't think they are necessary. I'm guessing all my camber problems were due to i-beam hinge bushing disintegration and upper ball joint wear. I had to rent a ball joint separator for the job but otherwise the rest of the tools are mostly standard. As you can see, I did this in my sandals, so I guess it can't be all that bad I guess.
[QUOTE=Treacy;16702865]Hi guys! I have another build/repair thread for the archives.
As most of us know, I-beam suspension Fords kind of have adjustable camber (but not really). So I ordered new adjustable camber bushings from Amazon. These bushings promise a range of adjustability from -2 camber to +2. (ha ha ha...I still don't believe it, but still plenty of adjustability).
It has been my experience that the -2* +2* adjustment is for 2 WD only. The 4X4 trucks can go 4* IIRC. The passenger knuckle on the 4X2 prevents an adjustment greater than 2*. I didn't watch your video yet but I have had more luck removing the camber bushing by inserting a large screwdriver in the slot and prying some where the pinch bolt goes for easier removal. Ideally if you are using the adjustable bushings, you should put both settings on 0* and then take it to the alignment shop. Take your settings directions that come with the adjustable bushings. A lot of shops around here won't do adjustable bushings so I would call ahead first. Just my experience with my trucks. Popcorn ready to watch your video. Sandy
Notice this chart where the camber adjustment goes to 4*. At the top of the page it shows that this page is for 4X2 trucks and the page says max adjustment is 2*. The other side of the page is for 4X4 adjustments but I don't have a picture for that.
11-06-2016, 07:16 PM
