Ticking noise
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 349
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Ticking noise
My air cleaner pickup tube wasn't secured the right way and one of the brackets was making annoying noise from vibration. I finally secured it with the second bolt and now I can hear ticking noise under rocker covers. Hate to hear this noise on a diesel.
I read that retorquing the rockers on PSD might cure the issue, haven't found anything about IDI yet.
Any thoughts, suggestions please?
I read that retorquing the rockers on PSD might cure the issue, haven't found anything about IDI yet.
Any thoughts, suggestions please?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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My air cleaner pickup tube wasn't secured the right way and one of the brackets was making annoying noise from vibration. I finally secured it with the second bolt and now I can hear ticking noise under rocker covers. Hate to hear this noise on a diesel.
I read that retorquing the rockers on PSD might cure the issue, haven't found anything about IDI yet.
Any thoughts, suggestions please?
I read that retorquing the rockers on PSD might cure the issue, haven't found anything about IDI yet.
Any thoughts, suggestions please?
Pull each pair of rockers, check for a bent pushrod.
Retorque the rockers.
If that doesn't fix it, look for a valve spring that is all cruddy(not oily), with a /lot/ of black crap around it. If you find one, that's because the valve guide is shot. Probably /not/ the case here, but it's pretty obvious when you see one.
If it's still a problem, chances are it's a lifter. You might be able to fix it by using a 'cleaner' product in the oil - I've heard of people adding 1 quart of diesel to the engine oil, letting it idle for a few minutes, shutting it down and changing the oil... this can help to break up some deposits.
If not... time to replace one or more lifters. Good news is they are pretty cheap; the same exact lifter is used on the 7.3 PSD
Junior User
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A quart of tranny fluid for 500 miles. This will break down any sludge or carbon build up. Or heat up engine to operating temperature add a quart of kerosene for five minutes shut down and drain oil. Remember add new oil before start up. Old racers advice. I have used both methods many times.
Postmaster
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A quart of tranny fluid for 500 miles. This will break down any sludge or carbon build up. Or heat up engine to operating temperature add a quart of kerosene for five minutes shut down and drain oil. Remember add new oil before start up. Old racers advice. I have used both methods many times.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
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i do this most oil changes .. keeps sludge from plugging the lifters ..
and more thoroughly removes old oil and residue >>
1$ of diesel fuel in a jerry can ..
drain aprox 2 qts oil out the drain plug .. reinstall
pour in the diesel fuel into the crankcase oil ..
start and run engine 10 minutes until it's warm but not scalding hot ..
you can feel the oil pan for temp ..
then proceed to change oil as normal ..
you'll just get more of the old junk out and keep it running smoothe longer ..
if you're not yet in need of an oil change yet ..
you could drain a bit off and add atf .. a bit of diesel .. or marvel mystery oil
or some mixture of the 3 ..
to help free things up .. this will only help the tick if it's a stuck lifter though ..
but it's a good practice to keep them clean as preventative maintenance ..
the specific type of atf isn't critical .. atf is simple oil without combustion inhibitors ..
and more thoroughly removes old oil and residue >>
1$ of diesel fuel in a jerry can ..
drain aprox 2 qts oil out the drain plug .. reinstall
pour in the diesel fuel into the crankcase oil ..
start and run engine 10 minutes until it's warm but not scalding hot ..
you can feel the oil pan for temp ..
then proceed to change oil as normal ..
you'll just get more of the old junk out and keep it running smoothe longer ..
if you're not yet in need of an oil change yet ..
you could drain a bit off and add atf .. a bit of diesel .. or marvel mystery oil
or some mixture of the 3 ..
to help free things up .. this will only help the tick if it's a stuck lifter though ..
but it's a good practice to keep them clean as preventative maintenance ..
the specific type of atf isn't critical .. atf is simple oil without combustion inhibitors ..
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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Type F is thicker and has no friction modifiers, where as Mercon V does.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 349
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No need to rotate the crank? How different are rocker assemblies from PSD?
Thanks for cleaning suggestions guys. This is what I used to do some years ago...was completely out of my mind. ATF, diesel, MMO, never used kerosene though.
Thanks for cleaning suggestions guys. This is what I used to do some years ago...was completely out of my mind. ATF, diesel, MMO, never used kerosene though.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 1,105
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kerosene is just a cleaner version of diesel ..
or something close to it ..
there are 2 rocker assembly versions .. you will have the later style ..
just remove the pushrods 1 at a time and push them into a labeled piece a cardboard ..
replace in exact same direction and order ..
roll each pushrod over a piece of glass and watch for wabble ..
there is no lash adjustment .. just torque the rockers down again when finished ..
it's something like 35 lbs ..
or something close to it ..
there are 2 rocker assembly versions .. you will have the later style ..
just remove the pushrods 1 at a time and push them into a labeled piece a cardboard ..
replace in exact same direction and order ..
roll each pushrod over a piece of glass and watch for wabble ..
there is no lash adjustment .. just torque the rockers down again when finished ..
it's something like 35 lbs ..
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Mar 2016
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ohh .. also .. try to wait a few hours to start the truck after re-installing the pushrods ..
in case any lifters pumped up .. this will allow for time to collapse ..
don't crank the rocker nuts down too fast .. do each a bit at a time to allow the oil to bleed down ..
do it in several passes across ..
this might be unnecessary .. but better safe than sorry with valve-train interference ..
in case any lifters pumped up .. this will allow for time to collapse ..
don't crank the rocker nuts down too fast .. do each a bit at a time to allow the oil to bleed down ..
do it in several passes across ..
this might be unnecessary .. but better safe than sorry with valve-train interference ..
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2010
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Not going to do it tomorrow but while speaking of it...
Do I need just lubricate a pushrod before reinstalling or pour some oil down?
The Haynes book says 20 ft-lbs for rocker arm bolts, no variations. Some people say 20-25. Isn't 35 too much?
Do I need just lubricate a pushrod before reinstalling or pour some oil down?
The Haynes book says 20 ft-lbs for rocker arm bolts, no variations. Some people say 20-25. Isn't 35 too much?
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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The they will fill with oil within a few seconds with the engine running anyway.
BTW, the good news is that if you /do/ end up with a piston smacking a valve once or twice, it probably won't hurt anything. Even with interference(i.e. piston smacking valve constantly due to bad valve recession tolerance), it takes a few thousand miles to wear out the guide*. The valves are totally square to the piston, so you won't break one like on other engines.
(*personal experience here)
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 349
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Still don't have an answer whether I need to rotate the crank, meaning have the cam in a certain position to work on individual rockers/pushrods. Nothing in the book about it. All it says "Beginning at the front of one cylinder head, loosen and remove the rocker arm post bolts....lift off rocker arms, posts and post retainers...remove pushrods..."
Don't really know when I will be doing it. There are a few more issues which need to be addressed ASAP. But the way it sounds with hood up does bother me.
And it's time to winterize and cover my boat, winter is right around the corner. Not much work with closed cooling system but takes time anyway.
Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2011
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Good news indeed.
Still don't have an answer whether I need to rotate the crank, meaning have the cam in a certain position to work on individual rockers/pushrods. Nothing in the book about it. All it says "Beginning at the front of one cylinder head, loosen and remove the rocker arm post bolts....lift off rocker arms, posts and post retainers...remove pushrods..."
Still don't have an answer whether I need to rotate the crank, meaning have the cam in a certain position to work on individual rockers/pushrods. Nothing in the book about it. All it says "Beginning at the front of one cylinder head, loosen and remove the rocker arm post bolts....lift off rocker arms, posts and post retainers...remove pushrods..."
I've pulled the valve covers way too many times. I can have them both off, checked, and back on within 2 hours.
The only thing that needs removal is the fuel filter on the passenger side; you may have trouble getting the valve cover past the AC box, but it should come if you angle it just right.
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Tuned
Joined: Jun 2010
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If I pull the covers I will want to paint them...grey...not going to happen in 2 hours...LOL
Last time I pulled batteries for service while doing water pump, t-stat, tensioner and idler it took me 4 days to put the batteries back because I wanted to clean and paint the trays...so they were pulled too.