Guys

Bought a new compact tractor, implements and 7 × 20 Trailer

On the drive to get it about 4 hours, truck drove pretty much normal. In thing I noticed the rpms very seldom went over 2200 running 65 to 70. Even with accelerator to floor it stay the same, if I let off and kinda stomped it or would go up to about 2500 then drop right back down.

Get to the dealer , get hooked up headed home. The dealer is just outside Huntsville Al. Head south on I 65 to Birmingham. Get on the interstate decent acceleration pulled 5 lbs of boost. However driving was a different story. Had a hard time maintaing 65 at one point down to 45.

total weight 13900
Get never got of 850
boost max 7 once ranged from 0 to 5. Lots of 3
transmission temp never over 195
Rpms about the same as the drive up
Water temp started out just above 200 normal empty under 200.
it slowly started to climb. At first around 210, then it would climb up to about 226 then back down some. Them it. 230 and back down. Final peak was 250 As soon as it hit 250 I pulled over and sat for minutes and temp came back down some.

It feel down on power.

Stopped to take a break. So smoke of the trailer axle with the brakes and wheels were hot. My thought was brakes were too tight. I jacked up each side and both turned easy. Thinking maybe it controller was bad, it was in the truck when I got.
Got back on the road not much improvement.

Leg two I 20/59. Water peaked at 240 but know trans temp started going up peaked at 242.

Not wanting to chance any damage I stopped for the night in Leeds. I still have about a 140 mile to go.

I Will check coolant in the morning but have never had a problem

 

Make sure the trailer brake connector is connected correctly, and, say, the trailer brakes aren't connected to the tail light or aux. power wire...

If your trailer brakes are smoking, that's your problem right there. The engine just can't handle hauling at a high speed with the brakes on.

 

yea .. unplug the trailer wiring and go down a few exits .. see if she makes speed ..

you may not even need em' if you drive with care and leave plenty of room to stop .

 

I disconnect both wires on both brakes. I will in plug the connector in the morning before I head out. Would have been a bit unsafe at night

 

Update

Got up this morning collar level was ok.

Drove 60 miles on I 20 from Leeds Al to exit 205 water temp maxed at 240 on one hill with 7 psi boost. When 10 miles temp was up to around 210 it said around 220 most of the time.

Got off the Interestate for the final 100 miles again water temp peaked at 240 on another hill with the 7 psi boost. The water temp still avarged between 215 and 220 at time going up to 230. IT always came back down. WHEN I would stop for fuel or a break the water temp would come back down. The low temp was 190.

It still feels like low power

 

I would try advancing it a couple of degrees. I know that when I had my truck a little bit retarded, I had slightly lower power and it got a /lot/ hotter(this was when I was taking a trip with a camper).

 

Thank you Mac. NOW that have some weight I can pull and do more adjustments. Since I don't have the timing should I go another another 1/16 "

 

Sure. You'll know pretty quickly if it was too much, better or worse.

 

Would timing keep the rpms down to 2500

 

You've got an automatic transmission, right?
I'm guessing one of two things:
1. In later model 7.3 IPs, they added a 'torque screw', which effectively limits high-end fueling. If you have this, you'll want to back it completely out... you need as much fueling at the high end as possible for the turbo.
2. Transmission shift point is too low and/or you aren't making enough power to make the converter slip and rev higher.

I'm not sure what sort of adjustment you can do on your automatic, but I do know that if the transmission was "tuned" for a certain HP/torque and you are making less, it won't rev up as high as the transmission thinks you aren't giving it full throttle.

 

Yes it is the E4od. The enginge is Jasper replacement that was in it when I got it was put in about 8 years ago, I am sure it 8s a stock Ip. Where is the screw at?

 

It's on the back side of the IP, above the injector lines, on the driver's side, next to the guide stud(which has a plastic cap).

If you just have a cap screw in there, it's probably not an actual torque screw. If it's something larger, with a locking nut for adjustment... that is. You'll want to back it out as far as is reasonable.


If the IP is stock, you'll probably want to just crank the fuel screw up a lot as well; with the turbo, you can handle it. It'll make it a little more sensitive down low, and more likely to smoke if you give it excessive throttle input, but will give you much more power up top.


Edit:
I thought I might just mention that if you have a hard time keeping it from smoking down low, and don't like it or need to pass emissions, Hypermax makes a "smoke puff limiter" for our IPs.
It basically limits fueling based on boost, so you can have extra fuel "kick in" when the engine can burn it, but not have to be so precise to prevent smoking before you have boost.
On a stock IP, it's not really critical; on a 110CC or above pump it makes it nicer to drive I think. But it all depends on if you need it, or can keep your foot out of it at low RPMs.

 

I just went out and checked I think I got one there is something just above the lines with a plastic cap. I try to adjust it out a little when I get back to doing stuff on the truck. After 5he paint and body going to take a little break and work on the land a little

 

Just remember, it's /NOT/ the cap which is on centerline of the IP. It's on the driver's side of the IP NEXT to that cap.
The centerline cap/screw is the guide stud, which affects governor response. Not what you need to mess with.