So I have just about 200 miles on a freshly rebuilt 6.9, installed the R&D camshaft and a used Banks Sidewinder. The injection pump has been rebuilt and a new set of Delphi injectors. It runs great, very happy with it so far but I think it still needs some tweaking. First and foremost the pump timing is my main concern. I'm not sure which way it needs to go, it starts a little hard unless you blip the throttle while cranking. Also it has a pretty steady knock at idle, it seems to smooth out as the rpms go up. It runs smooth and quiet going down the road, has good power overall. I'm not sure if I should advance or retard the timing. Also regarding boost, running empty you really have to wind it up to build any boost. I can hear the turbo spooling up, it only seems to make about 7-8 psi; which doesn't really bother me too much yet as I haven't towed anything with it yet. I did notice the crossover pipe leaks a little bit at the manifolds, I suppose that may effect boost? Also the downpipe doesn't seal up to the turbo very well either. Any tricks or solutions for that? Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.

 

Crank up the fuel, first off. Unless you get a cloud of black smoke if you romp on it near idle, you aren't going to have enough fuel to get much boost. Remember that with the turbo, you are looking for a 'light haze at WOT'... at max boost and probably 2800 RPM. Chances are you'll be able to turn the pump all the way up and the turbo will clean it all up.

Then, as far as timing goes... If you see white smoke at the upper end, you are retarded. If not, play with it a little and see what feels better.faster - basically, what has the most power is generally pretty close to optimal timing.

 

I talked to the guy who did the pump work, he said when I get it running to bring it to him and he would dial the fuel in for me free of charge. So I guess that will be the next step. As for timing, I was always under the impression that the knock/rattle was what to gauge the timing from. Is it possible to have it advanced too much, possibly cause damage? Thanks again!

 

It generally is... but the "physics" of the situation change a bit with a turbo - The turbo adds extra heat with the boost pressures, so a couple degrees more retarded tends to be optimal.
If you advance it too much(within reason), you will lose power and it'll be really clattery.
Way too advanced and it won't even start. As far as damage, I'm sure you really could if you tried, but these engines are overbuilt; you'll know if you are more than a couple of degrees off in any case.

Play with it, see what happens. But without cranking up the fuel, you'll be running lean once you get some boost in there, so a more advanced timing(comparatively) will feel better.

Oh... Do you have a pyrometer yet? You'll definitely want one, especially with the added fuel you'll be running. It's not hard to get things quite hot going up a long grade towing, and that's the sort of thing that might burn valves if you let it get too hot for too long.

 

you want to break it in hard .. right away .. 200 miles may be too many though ..

Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

recommended procedure from several gear heads and motor guys for low wear , powerful motors ..

 

I do have a pyrometer and boost gauge on it. If I get after it pretty hard it will run up to 600 degrees. Cruising it will usually back down to 475-500 degrees. As far as the break in goes I started out fairly easy on it for the first few miles to get everything up to temp. Once warmed up I lean on it pretty hard, usually take off easy from a stop then pour the juice to it. I'm confident the rings are seated, no smoking and no oil consumption. It has seen mostly back country roads and highway, some in town driving. In the past with other engines I've rebuilt, I always try to give a fresh engine a mix of driving conditions, but mostly back roads and highways. Typically run them moderate to hard on the smoke pedal. Had good results so far. Sounds like I have a few things to try after turning up the fuel. I don't want to tamper with the pump as it will void the warranty. I'll have to bring it up to the shop that rebuilt it. I really appreciate all the information, thanks again fellas!

 

Whoa nellie where is your pyro located? 600* is nice and low for me, practically never get that low while driving unless downhill or 40mph and under on flat.

 

Where you have it located will definitely affect the EGTs
Mine is pre-turbo, in the up-pipe.
Mine:
Idles at about 180-200F if you leave it long enough.
In normal light driving, it's always moving around - goes between I'd say 800 down to 350 or so depending on conditions.
If I floor it, I'll hit around 800 in a couple of seconds, and then it climbs at like 30F a second beyond that(so a long hill, it'll start working it's way towards the danger point if floored).
If I hold the throttle just before the smoke point, it'll usually end up under 1,000F.
Cruising at 65MPH when the temps outside are like 60F, on flat level ground, in 6th gear(1700 RPM), it'll be between 500 and 600F. Obviously any downhills will lower it, any slight hills will rise it.

 

nice .. u got it well under control ..

about the steady knock .. is this also while warm or only cold ..

if cold or hot it could likely be injector knock ..

word is that delphi injectors aren't very good .. but that's just hearsay .. i have no first hand experience to corroborate this .. but what i read was that the new delphi's are not great injectors ..

 

i went looking for .. but couldn't find the post i was reading recently about the new delphi injectors .. supposed to be they used to be one of the best .. but something happened to the quality .. idk can't remember and couldn't find where that was located ..

 

Injection Pump replacement tips:
Make a reference mark on the pump and upper timing cover if the same pump is being reinstalled. When reinstalling the pump, realign the marks.
Inspect the fuel suppy line seals and replace them as necessary.
On E-vans, remove the RH seat for easier access. Also remove the fuel filter and housing as a unit for more room.
Remove the pump with the injector lines attached. On 7.3 engines there is a timing adapter on injector #1 (F-Series) or #4 (E-Van), hold this with a back-up wrench when removing that line.
Replace the injector return cap o-rings while the pump is off if needed.
On engines equipped with a turbocharger, remove the pump upper mounting stud to allow for more maneuvering room.
Remove and install the injection pump inlet fitting into the new pump; replace the o-ring if necesssary.
Seal the threads of the injector return line fitting with Loctite 515 Gasket Eliminator or PST.
Do not remove the injection pump outlet/check valve fitting and install it into the new pump.
On E-vans, adjust the FIPL sensor (E4OD trans) on the bench before installing the pump.
When installing the pump, use a phillips screwdriver or slim line-up punch to align the pump shaft with the gear. Start the gear screws into the pump shaft before installing the mounting nuts.
Start the injector line nuts onto the injectors before tightening the mounting nuts.
Don't mount the cold idle kicker solenoid until the pump timing has been set.
If the pump is being replaced, advance it counter clockwise as far as it will go then tighten the mounting nuts. This will make dynamic timing (while running) adjustments easier later. If dynamic timing is not available, set the pump to the center of its adjustment range, or line up any reference marks on the pump and timing cover.
If the twelve-point heads of pump shaft to gear bolts round off, they can be replaced with bolts from NAPA's u-joint hardware kit P/N 331-10.
Leave the injector lines loose until you're ready to start the engine.
When re-starting the engine, connect a battery charger to one battery and disable the glow plug system to prevent glow plug damage.
Connect a jumper wire from the positive battery terminal to the cold advance solenoid to help purge air from the pump.
Crank the engine over in 60 second intervals and tighten each injector line nut as fuel appears at each injector.
Recommend using a non-alcohol fuel conditioner to control water and algae and promote lubricity.

 

Smoke analysis
White smoke:
Caused by unburned fuel passing through the engine. Some white smoke is normal on cold start-ups.
Excessive white smoke could be an indication of inoperative glow plugs, loose injectors, low compression from worn rings or bent connecting rods, or coolant leak into the cylinders.
Black smoke:
Caused by excessive fuel for the amount of air drawn into the cylinders. Some black smoke on hard accel or at higher altitudes is normal.
Excessive black smoke could result from restricted intake or exhaust, inoperative leaking or weak turbo (if equiped), intake manifold gasket leaks (turbo), leaking or worn injectors, fuel return or supply restriction, advanced injecion pump timing or defective injection pump.
Blue or blue/white smoke:
Caused by insufficient fuel or oil consumption. Normal when engine is cold or idling for extended periods.
Excessive smoke could be caused by air in the fuel, contaminated fuel, loose or plugged injectors, thermostat stuck open, oil consumption, plugged crankcase depression regulator valve, retarded injection pump timing, or defective injection pump.

 

Great information! Thank you very much!