I removed the water pump and fuel pump to clean and repaint the engine to remove any signs of oil leaking. I peered inside and found it has the nylon over aluminum silent chain.

My heart sank. I didn't want to turn this into a project as I have too many going already, but I have it apart this far so I'm thinking I should probably replace the timing gears while I have the front dress off.

So, assuming the odometer is telling the truth, and I have just a tad over 90K, how long could I expect the original chain to last? I'm trying to decide if I should put this off and just get it back on the road, to take the time and get it over with.

Thoughts? My recollection is that these things only go a little past 100K before the nylon gets brittle and crumbles into the oil pan.

 

As long as you already have started, do it now and save your self a headache in the very near future..

 

Agreed ... Do it Now, After all you are most of the way there already

 

The nylon timing gear required a spacer, shown as 6265 in pic.

The replacement timing gear has the spacer made as part of it, so throw the spacer away.

 

Thanks for the tip Bill.

I decided that if I'm going to the trouble of replacing the timing set, then I might as well swap out the cam at the same time. Edit: This I did! I ended up installing a Comp Cams 260H with 260 degrees advertised duration, 212 at .050, .484 lift I and E, and 110 degree LSA.

Some other changes I've decided on:

1. Duraspark ignition. I scored an NOS Ford reman FE distributor for $60. I already have several ignition modules and even a swap harness already built up (stealing from my Mach 1 since the engine is out anyway). I'll swap the vacuum advance can over and use the small black cap to make this is a stealth installation. Most people won't notice it's not the original distributor. EDIT: I ended up using a Pertronix instead. Much easier to install and maintained period look.

2. NOS 55 amp round back Autolite alternator. I had originally intended this for my Mach 1, but that's so modified already I think it would be more appropriate on the slick. Especially since it has the "round" back that is correct for 65 to mid 67. I'll swap the original fan and pulley over after repainting them black. Edit: The alternator turned out to have an internal short. Put the original back on. I plan to have it repaired though someday.

3. Driver side power steering engine perch swap. If I eventually decide to install power steering, at least this part will already be done. I already have one, so this was also a no-brainer. Edit: Ended up installing original '66 Bendix power steering. The gearbox was rebuilt by Redhead and has performed flawlessly so far.

4. Dual exhaust with a spacer replacing the heat riser valve. The exhaust leaked terribly, so I had to do something with it anyway. Edit: Although I did this, it didn't stay that way very long. My son and I fabricated a 2 into 1 mandrel bent exhaust with 2 1/4" head pipes that merge into a y pipe with a 3" outlet. After that is a Dynamax 3" turbo muffler and then a 3" mandrel bent pipe over the axle. The driver's side can be removed independently to allow for the trans to be removed and installed without touching the passenger side or Y pipe.

5. I ordered a custom offset pair of 15x8 series 62 wheels for the rear with 5" backspacing from Wheel Vintiques. I want to retain the type 2 hub caps and I'm planning to swap a dentside 31 spline 9" over, so the wheels needed to sit more inboard than the standard 4" backspace allowed. Edit: Didn't use these on this truck, however I plan to put them on the back of my '76 F150 so the wheels tuck up under the wheel wells nicely. I kept the original rear housing but installed custom 31 spline axles and later '68 up style brake backing plates which gained an extra 3/16" per side. Eventually I plan to install 7" wheels out back.

I'll take pictures as I make progress and start putting things back together. Well, I suck at taking pictures, but someday I will post them here.