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Rough Idle

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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 02:32 PM
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Rough Idle

My 95 f150 4.9 147K Manual and idles at about 1K and is rough. I have tried the standard rough idle procedures with no luck. I have no check engine light and the only thing that is not on par with what I read is my idle is high. I don't know if that is clue enough to suggest a fix but I don't know what else is suspect. Any and all suggestions are welcome and appreciated. If I haven't tried your suggestions prior, I will. Thank you Sandymane
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 03:32 PM
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Have you checked the timing?
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by PRIMERED79 SHORT BED
Have you checked the timing?
Yes and rechecked it. It is right on the big V
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 04:25 PM
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pull codes.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 04:56 PM
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Check for vacuum leaks.
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 07:22 PM
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I haven't pulled codes but I will. Thank you. I have checked vacuum leaks and will recheck them again. Thanks
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 09:07 PM
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It pulled a code 33 which is EGR not opening fully or a few other things. I have never pulled codes on an OBD1 vehicle so I didn't check. Thanks guys for the help and recommendation to check codes. I'll see if the search
suggestions work first without buying a new EGR which is last on the list.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 02:55 AM
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There are a few things to check in regard to the egr...first, take vac hose off of the egr diaphragm and apply vacuum tester. It should hold vacuum, if it doesnt, the diaphragm is bad and the valve needs to be replaced...if it does hold vacuum, move on (although the valve itself could be stuck from gunk).

Next, check for vacuum leaks in the vac circuit to the egr.

If there are no leaks, and the valve holds vacuum, then you should remove valve to make sure it's not stuck. If it moves freely, test the evp sensor on top of the valve to make sure it's giving proper feedback.

The egr solenoids rarely go bad, if all else test ok then that's the likely culprit.
 
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by sandymane
It pulled a code 33 which is EGR not opening fully or a few other things. I have never pulled codes on an OBD1 vehicle so I didn't check. Thanks guys for the help and recommendation to check codes. I'll see if the search
suggestions work first without buying a new EGR which is last on the list.
Your 1995 truck will display three digit codes. Code 33 is actually System Pass Code 111, then repeated. There are two sets of displayed codes for the KOEO tests and Stored Code (aka CM) display. If the KOEO tests pass you will get the 111/111. Then there is a separator flash to indicate the start of the CM code display. If there are no stored codes you will once again get System Pass 111/111.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 06:10 PM
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Yes I have the 1 1 1 code now. Today I replaced the EGR and the IAC. The truck now runs much better but I still have the high idle but it is not as rough as it was. It is about 1300. I have no vac leaks that I can find and have no idea where to go from here. The only thing that comes to mind is the TPS. From looking at the Chilton manual I don't have a clue how to check it due to the terminology. Does anyone have an idea I can try and how to do it? I will try. Thanks Sandymane
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 07:26 PM
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Spray some carb cleaner along where the upper and lower intake manifolds join and the around each intake runner where it meets the head. Those are the most likely areas to have a leak. I swore up and down that I didn't, but sure enough there it was.

If that's all good, you IAC valve may have an internal failure that is causing the vacuum leak.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 08:15 PM
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OK I can do that in the morning. Does anyone think it could be the TPS or something else?
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 07:03 AM
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Could be, but be sure to check the output voltage between the green and black (I think) wires on the TPS. If the voltage at idle is more than 1.0v than the TPS is bad and should be replaced.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Grems4ever
Could be, but be sure to check the output voltage between the green and black (I think) wires on the TPS. If the voltage at idle is more than 1.0v than the TPS is bad and should be replaced.
If the TPS output was above 1.0 VDC there would have been a code.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by sandymane
OK I can do that in the morning. Does anyone think it could be the TPS or something else?
Pull the connector off the IAC. If the idle remains high, you have a vacuum leak or sticking throttle body or someone jacked with the throttle stop screw.

If the idle RPM drops or the engine stalls it's most likely something electronic. An out of specification sensor such as the ECT, MAP or ACT can do it. The output may not be far enough out to trigger a code. Could be a computer going bad too. Pull it out then inspect for signs of leaking capacitors. Very common problem with different symptoms from time to time.
 
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