I will look at the thread there. Thanks.

 

Have you looked into replacing all the brake hoses/soft lines? They don't last forever, and can start "ballooning"

 

Yes. All rubber replaced.

 

Update. Ok after some research I found that there was an update some years back to a bigger bore size mastercylinder that was recommended through a TSB I believe. So I looked up the specs on the new mastercylinder I had bought from O' Reilly Auto Parts and sure enough it was the old bore size of 15/16. The new recommended bore size to use is a 1 1/8" which I was able to find at Napa Auto Parts. I put the new one from NAPA on and there is a significant difference in the pedal. It has very little free travel, firm and I have a lot of braking power now. While bleedingbthe passenger side rear I could tell I have another broken hardware kit by how that nail part is stabbed in at a extreme angle and partially sticking out of the back of the cover. This is the opposite side of the one I was having issues with hardware breaking. So tomorrow looks like I'm getting another hardware kit, taking it apart and putting it back together with the new kit and adjusting the brakes again. I believe this should altogether resolve my brake issues. What I can't tell anyone for sure or not is if it was only the mastercylinder that caused all my problems or not. I have pretty much replaced everything on the brake system other than the metal lines and the booster. So if anyone has brake pedal issues and you are replacing a mastercylinder just make sure you are getting one with the bore size 1 1/8" and you may be saving yourself a headache and days of wasted time chasing ghosts.

 

1 1/8" bore has around 30% more area - that would definitely cause a long pedal travel.

 

Perhaps the spring you said broke came off the (nail thing) that should have a slotted disc on it. You have to push the disc inboard over the spring and compress and turn the disc to get the flat side of the (nail thing) lined up in the disc where it can't come out. I suspected that when you said the spring broke as those rarely do. Nothing holding the nail so that is why it is at an angle and sticking out. I put a small socket that just fits around the disc and push in with that to hold it while turning to get the nail in the slot. Or you push it straight in and turn the nail in back by hand.

I just reread your post about it being the other side now. If so, whoever did it last did not do the above. Those springs hold the brake shoes down.

 

was already done today after putting another mastercylinder on.

 

So the smaller red spring in this pic is breaking?

Is the smaller shoe towards the front?

Was any work or replacement done to the drums or the shoes replaced?

EDIT...
Found this
Make sure of two things, that you have the correct shoes and that the drum doesn't have a spiral cut.

Dually shoes are wider then SRW shoes, the shop/parts place may have messed up and put SRW shoes on. IIRC dually shoes are 3-1/2" wide and SRW shoes 3" wide, but you'll want to look that up to make sure. If they put on SRW shoes the shoes could be pulling away from the backing plate breaking the spring.

When drums are resurfaced it's done on a lathe, this puts a spiral cut like tiny threads in the drum. This spiral must be broken up with sandpaper afterwards. If they did not this spiral could be trying to pull on the shoes.

 

Jerrod, if your brakes look like the above, forget everything I said. Didn't catch the dually. Sandy

 

The spring was actually broke on the driver and passenger side. I have never had to deal with brake pedal issues that took so long to resolve. But I guess it turns out that I had multiple issues anyway. The brake hardware in the rear plus the master cylinder and probably the abs hydraulic unit for the rear brakes. Everything now is solid and works perfectly. I'm glad this was finally resolved. Thanks everyone for the help and advice.

 

Thank you. I will definitely remember this information next time I have to del with the rear brakes.