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Here's the sticker on the 6.4. The 6.0 starter I have at home and I'll post tomorrow sometime.
The 6.4 # is 7C2T 11000 BA
The 6.7 # is 7C3T 11000 BA from what I've found.
For anyone that wants to know the Bolts that hold
the starter in are all 13mm head. 2 small and 1 large.
The 2 on the solenoid are 16mm and 10mm.
Also a swivel/U-joint is handy and a few different short extensions.
I'll add the length later.
EDIT : Make that a 3" and a 6" extensions and the wobble was 1"
For some reason I could not get the 15mm to go over the nut. I did not
take the nut off the other working starter but I think I'll check it to see.
It turned out to be that nut on the motor side of the solenoid was the problem.
The back side was arc burned and the nut was loose. I didn't see that until
I got it out and on the bench to test. I cleaned the stud and the eyelet up then
I sanded the back side of the nut to test it. Before I put it back in I will get a new nut
or better yet. I will see if I can get a new solenoid.
The odd thing is I have never touched that nut. Guess I need to add that to a PM list
somewhere in my head.
The resistance that caused the arcing on that nut caused heat. What happens when you heat a nut? It comes off easier! In your case engine vibrations worked it loose after it was heated.
That's my theory.
I Want to thank you too. You reminded me not to trust used parts so I put my stock working starter in the tool box. One more part for the road!
No 6.7 starter I don't blame you sounds like a lot of extra work drilling and taping that bottom bolt if I understood correct the extent there going thru to bolt that sucker on
Well I got a new solenoid for it today $26.00 is much better that $130 for the 6.0
or $230 for the 6.4 from NAPA.
I did get an answer as to why the 2 sizes on the nut. I dug out my old starter and
the nut on it was 15mm but the new nuts in the solenoid kit were 16mm. So it might
be a good idea to keep that in the back of you mind on roadside tools.
Then I thought that because I have a dead starter in my junk bin I would take one
apart. Did you know that out starters have real bearings? Also if you remove the two
long bolts on the end and the two short bots also on the end you can remove the cover
and check the brushes. The starter has 2 pair of brushed under that cap.
Anyway I got the starter back in and it starts nicely. I think I have been getting
less voltage to the starter for some time not because it did kick over faster with
the new solenoid and new tightened nut.
When I have some time tomorrow I take some photos of the starter disassembled
and post them.
I think the one thing that I got out of this is when doing the PM to also check how
tight both nuts on the starter solenoid are.
