When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Awesome Job Indy, and great photos. Its great to have this kind of input. It really helps cut down the intimidation factor when you see the harness seperated and routed to all its different routes.
I have used Rebel , Ron France , Detail Zone , and EZ wire , all are very good every thing is marked , just think and plan what you are doing , If you are using electric wipers , you have to remove the motor wire from the fire wall forward bunch to the under cab bunch , Wires are in bunches , front lights , horn , and electric fan , then you have engine management . then under dash and steering column , then you have rear lights and gas sending unit that will be changed if you have tank behind seat . Much easier than you think
DR, looking at the different harnesses you have used, there is a wide price varation. In your opinion and experience, what is the difference between a harness you pay $225 or $600 for? Do you have any photos of your installations you can share on this thread?
nice work Mark on the stocker... looks better than factory. I need some guidance on where to exit the cab if I want to hide all the wiring that I can... I've got a smooth firewall and don't like holes.
come out in the toe panel ?? or the kick panel... got a tilt front end so hanging them on the inner fenders ain't gonna happen... lots of details to think of , eh ??
I did not notice any components or wiring on the inner fenders. Wondering if I should close those hole shut before I epoxy prime? I think originally both sides have clips for wire harness and one side includes mount for windshield washer bag and the other for voltage regulator? I converted all three of mine to alternator.
I am a ways out from wiring my truck. But when I rewired my dump trailer I used the butt splices back at the tail lights and got some corrosion inside the splices after awhile. Ended up using some heat shrinks over each splice and it solved the issues. Kept the road crud from getting up in there.
I plan on using heat shrink over the bullet splices once I get the bed finished. I also will be making some plates that will isolate the wiring in the rear bed cross member from the weather.
Not sure why the big difference in price , some of it would be number of extra wires for options , like AC or power windows . Last one I used was EZ wire , it was priced in the middle of the range . and was marked well and did what I needed , You should solder and use heat shrink
Just got off the phone with Mid Fifty and the "stock" original wiring harness they offered last year for $250 is now $325. It does look like a nice harness if you want that stock look and comes with all the terminals. They look to me like the original harness if thats the look your wanting to duplicate. It also says the harness can be modified to work with an alternator. I previously purchased two of the EZ wiring harness kits from Mid Fifty. Both are the black wires with the white lettering every six inches. The "EZC" are the same kit but have all color wires. When I purchased my EZ kits, I was told the colored wire harness were really wild colors opposed to the stock colors. While these kits include some upgrades to the stock harness, the do now come with the ends all installed like the originial stock harness. I will know more once I decide which kit to purchase next, but as of now, Im pretty impressed with this stock harness (3200) and how much of the work is already done.
The main reason I went with the American Autowire kit I got from Mid Fifty was that it had everything. Other than wire loom and frame clips I didn't have to buy anything else. Of course I already had the tools needed for installing the terminal ends. I wasn't looking for a Stock look. I was looking at ease of installation.
Makes sense. I was just about ready to order a harness then realized this truck has a ten foot flatbed and the rear section of any harness is going to come up short. Now Im thinking regardless of the harness I install, it will have to include a plug or terminal to extend wires for rear of truck lights.
The kit I used had plenty of wire. It went at least 4' past the frame.
Good to know Indy, I would rather go straight to the part than have a junction box. On another note, I have considered installing plugs that allow unplugging each section, but have not pursued that.
Good to know Indy, I would rather go straight to the part than have a junction box. On another note, I have considered installing plugs that allow unplugging each section, but have
not pursued this at.