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Repair mirror mounting points.

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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 05:06 PM
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Repair mirror mounting points.

My passenger mirror was hit in a parking lot and it caused to rivet nuts to tear out of the door.

What is the best way to fix this? Will it be safe to just pound the holes back and go oversize on the rivet nut? Or do I need to weld up the holes and redrill?

This is on a set of type 8 towing mirrors with 5 mounting bolts on a '76 Super Camper Special. This is the only dent on the truck, so it looks especially out of place.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 05:11 PM
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I'd be interested to know as well. My 78 F250 has the same problem on the pass side door.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 05:24 PM
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If you are going to replace the rivet nut then pound the metal back in to shape. and back it with piece of sheet steel (16ga or better) about 2" Square drill through the sheet steel so the rivet nut grabs both the door and the backer. I have found that stainless sheet works good as it is tougher than the steel that the door is made from and no corrosion issues either.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 05:28 PM
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Thanks, that sounds like the right way to go. I'll see if I can scrounge up some sheet stock and give it a go once I find a place to buy the rivet tool.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by wacoustahonyock
Thanks, that sounds like the right way to go. I'll see if I can scrounge up some sheet stock and give it a go once I find a place to buy the rivet tool.


You have to make sure the new rivet nut will grab the original door skin on the outer shoulder or it will not work. You can install them with piece of grade 8 all thread and a grade 8 nut
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 08:15 PM
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When I went from type 9s to 7's, I had to get creative. My truck had no rivenuts on it. I took the door panels off and used washers, lock washers, and nuts on the back (inside) of the doors with all stainless 1/4" hardware. The trick: thread the washer, lock washer, and nut into a bolt. Put a dab of hot glue on the side to hold them all together so it's easier to get them started.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by wacoustahonyock
Thanks, that sounds like the right way to go. I'll see if I can scrounge up some sheet stock and give it a go once I find a place to buy the rivet tool.
Rivet nuts (AKA nutserts) are available individually from Ace Hardware.

Alternatively, both Jeg's and Summit carry well-stocked kits.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 09:19 PM
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X2 on if you do not want to or can get the nutserts and the required special tool to install them, just flatten back out the area, carefully remove the door panel and go the big flat washer/lock washer, lock nut, bolt route.

Allen head rounded stainless makes for a sharp little detail trick on the bolts. Along with a bit of sealant under the plastic gasket to keep the water out.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 06:01 AM
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The original nutserts didn't require a special tool.
You take a nut and thread it onto a long bolt then screw the bolt into the nutsert. Insert the nutsert into the hole and tighten down the nut. This collapses the outer sleeve and expands the nutsert into the hole.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 07:26 AM
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Cool where do you find those nutserts? The ones I located needed a compression/special tool.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Cool where do you find those nutserts? The ones I located needed a compression/special tool.
Fastenal carries them as does Acklands

https://www.fastenal.com/products?te...ut&searchMode=
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
Cool where do you find those nutserts? The ones I located needed a compression/special tool.
Good morning Rich, that's how the instructions from a set of NOS mirrors I have show how to do it.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 08:52 AM
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Cool for sure. I am C&Ping this page to the info thread for all to see.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 77&79F250
I am C&Ping this page to the info thread for all to see.
...........
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 07:18 PM
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Lower pic: TYPE 8
 
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