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I am not currently in town and am stuck out of town trying to fix this. 96 F350 PS. I had a charging issue and found a wiring issue at the passenger side battery inside the terminal. So I cut it off and put a new terminal on. Not sure what happened, but now the truck doesn't turn off when I turn the key off. The ebrake light, abs light, and battery light all stay on as well. Everything else goes off. Gauges and all. I can drive it straight like this too. No turning as the wheel locks. Am I correct in assuming that the ignition switch has fried under the dash? Nothing happens when I disconnect the #9 fuse under the hood either.
Here was my experience from years ago. It points to the problem mentioned above and mine ended up being the switch giving up on me. The switch is a real joy to change but i can be done pretty quick with a little help from this thread:
turns out one relay has a on off switch to manually turn the power on and off. no matter the light switch position.. just need to go get another normal relay.
Sweet baby Jesus! Thanks! GP relay was the issue. as well as the ignition switch under the dash. The lights go off with the key turned to the off position and everything.
Now when I turn the key to start it, it doesn't even crank or click. But if I stick a screwdriver on the two terminals on the starter relay on the passenger fender, it'll start off of that. So same as a gasser, bad starter relay? Apparently when my cable was corroding out inside the terminal it decided to fry half the **** on the way out the door. And it all started with it was running low voltage and the alternator wasn't charging much. -_-
Sweet baby Jesus! Thanks! GP relay was the issue. as well as the ignition switch under the dash. The lights go off with the key turned to the off position and everything.
Now when I turn the key to start it, it doesn't even crank or click. But if I stick a screwdriver on the two terminals on the starter relay on the passenger fender, it'll start off of that. So same as a gasser, bad starter relay? Apparently when my cable was corroding out inside the terminal it decided to fry half the **** on the way out the door. And it all started with it was running low voltage and the alternator wasn't charging much. -_-
yeah of all works right but the key is dead and it's starts while jumping with a screwdriver then that's the starter solenoid that died. I take it that you can start it that way then turn it off with the key?
I'm not finding what I need either for the wiring portion. How in the world do I wire up the new starter relay? The one I have in there now is the stock one from 95. Lol. I'll get pics of it in the morning in the light and post em. The new relay looks almost identical to the GP relay.
lol, well that's a good deal and a simple fix. My only other piece of advice would be to use a Napa or Ford solenoid. The other brands just don't hold up.
Jumping the relay does NOT necessarily mean the relay is bad. TEST the relay. Also check for voltage at the relay coil circuit trigger wire while an assistant turns the key to START.
Jumping the relay does NOT necessarily mean the relay is bad. TEST the relay. Also check for voltage at the relay coil circuit trigger wire while an assistant turns the key to START.
Automatic or manual transmission?
This is what I was wondering. Bad neutral safety switch.
This is what I was wondering. Bad neutral safety switch.
I do not have a voltmeter currently, so I can't test voltage out. I already hate dealing with electrical bs. I did go ahead and replace the relay on the fender wall to no change. And its a manual, I never drive autos. Lol
Jumping the relay does NOT necessarily mean the relay is bad. TEST the relay. Also check for voltage at the relay coil circuit trigger wire while an assistant turns the key to START.
Automatic or manual transmission?
Last I checked, only autos have a neutral safety switch. I have a clutch pedal starter safety switch on a manual. But mine is bypassed. I checked all its wires.
That's the trigger wire for the starter relay coil circuit. See post #10. That's the one that's energized by the ignition switch (by way of the clutch switch, or, in your case, the clutch switch bypass). The one you have to test. Get a voltmeter; it's cheaper than any other part you'll be troubleshooting at this point; troubleshooting without it has already gotten expensive (the starter relay might have been fine) and will get moreso. You need to test for voltage at that ^^^^^ wire while an assistant holds the key in the START position. If no voltage, check at the clutch switch bypass, key in START. Continue following "upstream".
Have you confirmed that your bypass for the clutch switch is still in place?
