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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

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Old Oct 31, 2016 | 08:47 PM
  #16  
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tip49
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use original shift

I was toying with using the original "50 stick" with the T-bird linkage but bailed out too early.

Tom
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 12:02 AM
  #17  
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yes I just sold a 47 gm 3/4 ton and the shifter had a finger leaver and a rod that went to the trans for reverse would have been adaptable for the actuator on a newer shifter
 
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Old Nov 1, 2016 | 09:09 PM
  #18  
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So I spent a few hours on the aerostar shifter it will definitely work now it needs to be lengthened and have a decent handle
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 09:37 AM
  #19  
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Nice work

That linkage is manly!

Now you need to see how much clearance you will have with the seat, if you are using bench. The push button release may pose a challenge but anything is doable. Keep at it.

I liked the Lokar idea of replicating the original stick to keep the retro feel.

Tom
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 03:16 PM
  #20  
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Manly yes I have cleaned it up and properly welded and painted it now . I did position it when the trans was in the truck with the seats , and as it is only a rod that pushes down to release the lock I'm sure I can lengthen the shaft and make a more suitable handle
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 07:52 PM
  #21  
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i'll be watching, with interest

Looking good to date, anxious to see the finished product.

Tom
 
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Old Nov 3, 2016 | 09:49 PM
  #22  
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I also bought a lokar but like seeing you make the Aerostar work! Takes me back to the van i drove to high school...ha
 
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Old Nov 4, 2016 | 12:22 PM
  #23  
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The aerostar was the only long shifter I could remember seeing over the years and a 4 speed auto , unfortunately it was a 4 position forward shift not a 3 like the AOD so I had to modify the shift to eliminate the 1st position
 
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Old Nov 5, 2016 | 01:32 PM
  #24  
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shifter from 70 mustang

I bought a used 70 mustang shifter rebuilt for a few bucks and only cost $40. Had to put slight bend in shift r[ATTACH]Name:  DSC03531.JPG
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Size:  159.4 KB[/ATTACH]od for the 67 c4 from a mustang.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 10:11 AM
  #25  
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All most looks like you got my seats
 
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 08:16 AM
  #26  
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In the process of seeking out a shifter to replace the stubby one in Henry, I found one from Lokar. #ATS60C4AN for $249.99 with free shipping from Speedway.

Later!
Mr. Ed
 
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Old Nov 7, 2016 | 12:22 PM
  #27  
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The trouble here is that $ 250 is $ 320 Can. no free shipping = $50 , mysterious $ 100 border charge so pretty close to $ 500 Can .
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 07:32 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by yamagrant
I went with the Lokar. Love it. Good luck!
Attachment 163673
Is that the 23" or 32" Version? Like the look
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 08:24 AM
  #29  
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We are going thru all this I would say crap. The truck 56 F350 the engine 302 with
AOD. Thinking Lokar is the pricey way to go. Shift handle located thru the origional
floor pan fits perfectly. Next the detent has to be changed. Had to make a wrench to
get that misrable nut of the shaft -OK- got that done. Question is how in hell do you
hook that cheap metric threaded rod from A to B. ya got to bend it like a pretzel.?
I should take a pic, problem is the shift handle call it A to the trans detent call it B is
about 7 inches (diagonal). If I were Lokar should'nt you think they would have a
dummy AOD in the factory for setup and final inspection?? As for their instructions, only
a computor geek would understand. So I have to fab my own shift to trans link instead
of that flimsy metric threaded rod which once cut to size and you screw up ya done.
Can't buy this rod around here.. Another question > when the pan was dropped what is
that yellow plastic ball with '0' ring just floating in the bottom of the pan, I seen this
before. It does'nt fit anything? or is this something used at factory assembly and just left there.? So that mystery ball goes in the junk draw.. sam
there
 
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Old Dec 14, 2017 | 08:40 AM
  #30  
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Additional tip; AOD for a truck with a carrier bearing. We found a late F250 'fat drive
shaft' will slip into the smaller rear shaft just wizzing a spline on the late one. The wizzed
spline was only to clock the later shafts. Now the front fat shaft from carrier bearing will
go right on to the front OAD U joint -- clock those two then weld...never had a imbalance
problem either but seen some with a hose clamp for balance BUT I think that was caused
by big globs of improper welding.
 
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