Floor shift
#16
#19
Nice work
That linkage is manly!
Now you need to see how much clearance you will have with the seat, if you are using bench. The push button release may pose a challenge but anything is doable. Keep at it.
I liked the Lokar idea of replicating the original stick to keep the retro feel.
Tom
Now you need to see how much clearance you will have with the seat, if you are using bench. The push button release may pose a challenge but anything is doable. Keep at it.
I liked the Lokar idea of replicating the original stick to keep the retro feel.
Tom
#21
#24
#28
I went with the Lokar. Love it. Good luck!
Attachment 163673
Attachment 163673
#29
We are going thru all this I would say crap. The truck 56 F350 the engine 302 with
AOD. Thinking Lokar is the pricey way to go. Shift handle located thru the origional
floor pan fits perfectly. Next the detent has to be changed. Had to make a wrench to
get that misrable nut of the shaft -OK- got that done. Question is how in hell do you
hook that cheap metric threaded rod from A to B. ya got to bend it like a pretzel.?
I should take a pic, problem is the shift handle call it A to the trans detent call it B is
about 7 inches (diagonal). If I were Lokar should'nt you think they would have a
dummy AOD in the factory for setup and final inspection?? As for their instructions, only
a computor geek would understand. So I have to fab my own shift to trans link instead
of that flimsy metric threaded rod which once cut to size and you screw up ya done.
Can't buy this rod around here.. Another question > when the pan was dropped what is
that yellow plastic ball with '0' ring just floating in the bottom of the pan, I seen this
before. It does'nt fit anything? or is this something used at factory assembly and just left there.? So that mystery ball goes in the junk draw.. sam
there
AOD. Thinking Lokar is the pricey way to go. Shift handle located thru the origional
floor pan fits perfectly. Next the detent has to be changed. Had to make a wrench to
get that misrable nut of the shaft -OK- got that done. Question is how in hell do you
hook that cheap metric threaded rod from A to B. ya got to bend it like a pretzel.?
I should take a pic, problem is the shift handle call it A to the trans detent call it B is
about 7 inches (diagonal). If I were Lokar should'nt you think they would have a
dummy AOD in the factory for setup and final inspection?? As for their instructions, only
a computor geek would understand. So I have to fab my own shift to trans link instead
of that flimsy metric threaded rod which once cut to size and you screw up ya done.
Can't buy this rod around here.. Another question > when the pan was dropped what is
that yellow plastic ball with '0' ring just floating in the bottom of the pan, I seen this
before. It does'nt fit anything? or is this something used at factory assembly and just left there.? So that mystery ball goes in the junk draw.. sam
there
#30
Additional tip; AOD for a truck with a carrier bearing. We found a late F250 'fat drive
shaft' will slip into the smaller rear shaft just wizzing a spline on the late one. The wizzed
spline was only to clock the later shafts. Now the front fat shaft from carrier bearing will
go right on to the front OAD U joint -- clock those two then weld...never had a imbalance
problem either but seen some with a hose clamp for balance BUT I think that was caused
by big globs of improper welding.
shaft' will slip into the smaller rear shaft just wizzing a spline on the late one. The wizzed
spline was only to clock the later shafts. Now the front fat shaft from carrier bearing will
go right on to the front OAD U joint -- clock those two then weld...never had a imbalance
problem either but seen some with a hose clamp for balance BUT I think that was caused
by big globs of improper welding.