92 E-150 5.8
Broke the two long studs on either side taking the (original!) water pump out.
Maybe an inch left sticking out.
Suggestions?

 

I couldn't see the picture you posted.

The timing cover where the long bolts pass thru is usually packed full of rust/corrosion. I would spray them with some PB blaster or something similar. You can try to use a vice grip on what's left sticking out past the cover.

When I break bolts off like that, I find a nut that will fit over what's left of the bolt and weld it on. Then try again to remove it. It will either break loose from the heat of welding on the nut or it will break off again. If it breaks off again or if you don't have access to a welder then you are stuck pulling the timing cover off.

Remove all the other bolts from the timing cover. Make sure to get them all so you don't break the timing cover. Pull the timing cover off. This might take some work because of the rust/corrosion around the broken bolts. Once the timing cover is off spray the broken bolts with some more penetrating fluid (where they go into the block ) . Then use a vise grip on the bolt and try to break it loose. They usually break loose once the timing cover is off.

If it all goes well and you get the bolts out you should be able to get some new ones at a parts place or Rockauto.com. I think they are Dorman brand, part # 23744. I think the kit includes one long bolt, one long stud and a short stud.

If you do have to pull the timing cover I would replace the timing set at the same time. If you have it tore down that far it's a good time to do it.

 

liquid penetrant and a propane torch with this tool


or

 

The two studs are into the block, right in a water jacket, if there not sealed with some pipe thread seal, the water works out into the treads, and what you have happens.

Fordman is spot-on, with welding a nut on the broken stud, 3/8" nut fits right over the 5/16" stud, the heat will break the rust free, and they will spin right out, the only way to get them removed is with heat. Propane torch will not produce enough heat, you'll need to heat them up with a Oxy/acetylene torch, something that gets over 2000 degrees, turn the broken studs red, and the rust will break down.

Even if you get the timing cover off, you'll still need to heat the broken studs up, because you don't want to break them off in the block, then you'll have another whole big problem.

The DORMAN 23744 Water Pump Stud Kit give you the 2 long (5"+) stud/bolts for replacement, plus the one other stud 3-7/16", Kits about $6 - $9 and most parts stores have it in stock.

Just make sure you use some thread seal on the bolts into the water jacket, in case you need to "re-do" this in the future.

 

I've been successful with propane numerous times. YMMV
if you weld a nut on , use a mig , not oxy acetylene

 

Okay- welded nuts on the studs (not easy with a stick welder) and snapped both off again.
Bought a stud remover tool (and stud kit- thanks!) and snapped them both off again.
Looks like timing cover will have to come off and start over.
In any case, wouldn't applying a LOT of heat to the studs damage the aluminum timing cover?
I drive this beast less than 1000 miles a year, and I'm REALLY tempted to use lots of high temp RTV, JB Weld in the holes and just put the new pump on...

 

Yea, I've always used a mig welder for this trick, it would be very hard to weld a nut on the stud with a stick welder........

To answer your question about the alum housing, your not applying heat to the alum, just the steel studs, that will burn out the rust and the dissimilar metal corrosion that's also taking place with the steel studs and alum housing.

If your not using this van as a daily driver, I think your idea of just leaving the studs *or whats left of them* in place, fill the holes of the new pump with some RTV, let the 5-6 other bolts hold the water pump in place, and you'll just not have those 2 studs to help support the accessories bracket on either side.

 

That's not really the best idea, unless you really like coolant leaks. If it was one of the top bolts, sure. But the long bolts provide the clamping force to seal the pump & timing cover around the water/coolant passages. Without them, it pretty much guarantees a leak. If you are lucky it will just be a minor drip( and may not start right away ) . If you are unlucky it could be a major leak. But if you need to get it back on the road asap it's an option. I wouldn't go with JB weld. Using that will basically ruin the waterpump for any future reuse. With the RTV, it can be cleaned out if you decide to do the repair later down the road.

 

I was kidding about the JB Weld- it is a long-running inside joke around here.
Tho bolts holding the A/C mount would help on the driver's side.
Today WAS the last time I was going to drive it until spring.
My main problem right now is that it is up on ramps and blocking the drive (we live out in the country and have a half mile driveway) and my wife will be back from New Orleans in a couple days- she is unlikely to be amused...

 

lots of penetrating oil and a pipe wrench place on bolts in correct direction (compression), it won't back off or slip, will only get tighter and tighter.

 

sorry, read it again, so now bolts are snapped off level with block? Wish I had read sooner, I know the weld on a nut trick is most popular, but I've never had issues using pipe wrench on something like this and they come out EVERY time.

 

PB Blaster or Kroil have worked best for me, and lots of patience. Spray, wiggle (sometimes tightening will break loose better than loosening), lightly tap end with hammer, reapply, sit for a few hours to penetrate, repeat.... over and over. Until it comes out. Every little motion helps penetrant seep in.

Is it an option to drill and use a time sert? I've used these with success in other situations, especially in aluminum.

 

Those bolts don't thread into the aluminum cover. They pass thru the cover and bolt into the block. Think of a pivot mounting bolt on the old style alternator. They loved to seize to the alternator body. To do any good you need to deal with the corrosion between the steel bolt/stud and the aluminum. Penetrating fluid and heat are the best solutions.

 

Ugh had this happen to me. I was already replacing the cooling system. I brought it to a shop and ate the charges.

 

Heat the timing cover where the bolts pass through. And then while it's hot, slowly apply torque to the bolts and ease them out. Use thread sealer and antisieze on the new bolts. (antisieze on the shanks, sealer on the threads)